Here's a new one.... I think!

[chebytrk]

What's the opinion on making ceiling Fan blades. I know that I've seen blades that I would like to get for my "outside" patio ceiling fans, but they were just too expensive to buy (over $100). I especially like the ones that look like big leaves. Just don't know if they would be OK to make or if the balance would be affected on the fan motors. Wife says that if they're too intricately carved, that they'd just collect too much dust. Oh well........ just looking and thinking out loud. Has ayone tried this yet?

[atauer]

If the blades are going to be installed on a fan that is on your outside patio, why not just get a small air compressor and blow them off when they need cleaning?

[chebytrk]

If the blades are going to be installed on a fan that is on your outside patio, why not just get a small air compressor and blow them off when they need cleaning?


Makes sense to me! Now if I can just convince my sugarbooger on that! ha ha Do you think the blades would still be balanced when replaced with the CW ones? I still think that the BIG Banana looking ones would look cool!

[atauer]

Balancing man be a different story. As long as each blade is the exact same size and contains the exact same amount of detail, I don't see why they would be balanced, unless multiple wood types are used.

[HighTechOkie]

I had a customer wanting some custom fan blades. The biggest issue is weight. I carved a sample out of 1/4" mdf since it will have a uniform density. He tried them on his fan, but seem to recall that they were out of balance. A fan balancing kit would fix it, but that just adds to the hassle. Due to the density variations in wood, I highly doubt they would be easy to balance. Add in the design and carving time (15-20hrs), I would just buy the blades you were looking at in the store. They will also stand up better to the elements outside since they are probably plastic or plastic coated.

From a practical standpoint, it just doesn't make much sense. Then again, every project is just another opportunity to learn what the machine (and you) are capable of.

Rob

[Kenm810]

Just following along, reading this thread of posts,
and looked up some all weather replacement Ceiling Fan Blades.
And found loads to chooses from, even some blank ones
that you might be able to carve into a leaf pattern on your machine.
I don't have any outdoor Fans myself,
but I do have 4 indoor Ceiling Fans, the one in my Den has six 6" x18" White blades,
it might be fun to carve some kind of pattern of graphic on them. :wink:

[James RS]

Thanks Ken,
Actually I was telling the wife it would be nice to carve some blades for our ceiling fans,
Especially when the price of some are really up there

[Kenm810]

If you do a quick Google search (Replacement Ceiling fan Blades) you can get a ton of ideas. :wink:
Also if you use 1/4" Baltic Birch Plywood, it's relativity light and very stable once you seal or paint it.

[Mark Gelinas]

I like the idea of doing up your own blades, and agree with the post that mentioned 1/4" birch (I think) ply. On the subject of balancing, stock blade weight balance can usually be achieved by taking most of the "clench" tension off of the mounting bolts, then moving individual blade tips left or right to adjust the collective center of gravity (CG). As a set, those blades are usually uniform enough, weightwise, to benefit from this method and won't need any external balance weight/kit. The ply seems like a good idea, if all blades are cut from the same sheet- assuming that the sheet is cut lengthwise into <14" wide strips. For outdoor use, however, I would also recommend sealant/varnish/polyurethane which would add some weight to the already heavy blades. Without sealant, the pores of the wood would absorb moisture on humid days and be heavier still. You could consider balsa, which is very light yet strong when "doped", but uniformity from sheet to sheet is iffy at best. My idea: think outside the box!! Try using: 1)a sheet of, say, >1/2" blue foam insulation (NOT Styrofoam!) for uniformly low weight with 2)some Tyvek (you know, the housewrap stuff) spray-glued to the surfaces for stiffening (accepts paint, etc. well due to porosity, just test coating on a hunk of scrap foam for compatibility) mounted to 3) pre-drilled ply mounts. The upper surfaces can be airfoil shaped (easy in Designer: splice a couple of curve profile edges together, adjusting proportions 'til it looks right) for downflow efficiency and still accept the Tyvek skin- wrapped from under the trailing edge, up over the leading edge, then back where you started. I use this system for autogyro-kite and windmill blades and it works well. You can even leave off the skin and use a spar for stiffening instead. You may need to get inventive and adjust the technique if your design includes compound curves that may be present in complex leaf shapes and rounded ends, but you wont be needing to stiffen the tips anyway. I say "Go for it!". Be inventive! Be unconventional! Between your brain and the CarveWright, you possess two of the best tools for innovation out there. Use 'em! Have fun. Consider shapes like bananas, feathers, bird wings, geometrics, etc.

[Kenm810]

Thanks Mark,

More ideas to think about, I'll have to pull out my notes
and files and load them back up in designer. :wink:

[DocWheeler]

Ken,

Those look pretty cool! Have you made them for yourself yet?

[Kenm810]

Not yet,

My carver is still in storage for now,
but hope to be back carving someday soon. :wink: