rock chuck

[jab73180]

hey all, i am pondering getting a rock chuck for my cw seems how i have the y truck off my machine replacing the bearings. now would be the best time to do it, but dont know how well the rock works, or even if there are any left. anybody out there have some time with it or is it to new.

-Jason

[Rick P]

The "ROCK" ships next week. I don't think anyone other than Ron has tried them yet.

[Bob Morris]

The "ROCK" ships next week. I don't think anyone other than Ron has tried them yet.

I don't know about a shipping date but if you viewed the short YouTube clip, that was running on one of my machines.
We did a 2 1/2 hour carve in 3/4" cherry, with an average carve depth of 1/2" . The "ROCK" is just that, I've ordered one for each of my machines.
Bob M.

[rjustice]

The "ROCK" ships next week. I don't think anyone other than Ron has tried them yet.

They are on 4 machines including mine, and are everything i had hoped for you can read comments and info on www.carvespot.com/forum

Click on the more information link for information and to see the Youtube video that was shot on Bob's machine.

You can order on my website www.cw-parts.com

As soon as i get the first batch packaged (monday) I will be producing a video showing good practices for removing and replacing the Chuck. If you subscribe to my youtube video you will get an announcement whenever i upload new video.

Thanks Guys and Gals!

Ron

[liquidguitars]

Ron,
we talked a bit about the calibrate function of the 3/8" bit have you tested the 3/8 bit with the 1/4" shank? this could be a deal breaker for a replacement QC. What is Calibrate you ask? calibrate lets you fine tune your carvwright if your CW is not measuring correctly you need calibrate.

I think if anyone upgrade to the new Kevlar belts or you will be building a advanced pattern you will need to
calibrate at some time down the road.

I think its only fair to point out this issue as i am not a tester and can not evaluate Ron's 1/4" shank only QC for us on the forum.

Questions:

1. Will the 3/8 bit using a 1/4 shank cutout pockets in maple .8" deep without any issues?

2. Will the 3/8 bit with the 1/4 shank calibrate the Carvewright the same as the OEM 3/8x1/2" bit?

3. using the Rock QC will the carving bit slip or come loose after a 3 hr carve @.8" passes?

I would like to think it would work the same.. but we will need conformation. If yes your good to go :mrgreen:

LG

[rjustice]

Ron,
we talked a bit about the calibrate function of the 3/8" bit have you tested the 3/8 bit with the 1/4" shank? this could be a deal breaker for a replacement QC. What is Calibrate you ask? calibrate lets you fine tune your carvwright if your CW is not measuring correctly you need calibrate.

I think if anyone upgrade to the new Kevlar belts or you will be building a advanced pattern you will need to
calibrate at some time down the road.

I think its only fair to point out this issue as i am not a tester and can not evaluate Ron's 1/4" shank only QC for us on the forum.

Questions:

1. will the 3/8 bit using a 1/4 shank cutout pockets in maple 1" deep without any issues?

2. with the 3/8 bit with the 1/4 shank calibrate the Carvewright the same as the OEM 3/8x1/2" bit?

3. using the Rock QC will the carving bit slip or come loose after a 3 hr carve?

I would like to think it would work the same.. but we will need conformation. If yes your good to go :mrgreen:

LG

LG... You are right on about needing to have the 3/8 bit to calibrate the new Kevlar belts. I have a source for the bits, and will be working with another forum member who already received his kevlar belts. I am confident that this will not be a problem. This design is far more rigid than the QC... The only possible issue would be the bit. For those that want to use the original CW calibration bit, it will not be an issue either. There will be a piece that will screw right up into the collar adapter to use 1/2 shank tooling comming soon.
There will be a solution one way or another. We will share the outcome once it has been done.

Happy Carving!

[liquidguitars]

LG... You are right on about needing to have the 3/8 bit to calibrate the new Kevlar belts. I have a source for the bits, and will be working with another forum member who already received his kevlar belts.

thanks but the belts are not the issue only a example of one need of a 3/8" bit.

what about 1/4 carving bit slippage @ .8 deep for a 3 hr cave? have you tested long carves yet? most of my guitar top take about 3 hrs
at anywhere form .125" to .80" " i asked this question regarding the eliminator 2


For those that want to use the original CW calibration bit, it will not be an issue either. There will be a piece that will screw right up into the collar adapter to use 1/2 shank tooling comming soon.

Edit:

sounds like then your 1/2 QC version is a part that screws on to your 1/4" setup" as to your original design" so i only need to buy the new 1/2" base? will it be a allen screw/wedge for a one wrench setup like the Rock?.


I have a source for the bits

can you give us more details are you talking about custom 3/8 tooling? why not use any 3/8"x 1/4" its sold everywhere.

LG

[rjustice]

thanks but the belts are not the issue only a example of one need of a 3/8" bit.

what about 1/4 carving bit slippage @ .8 deep for a 3 hr cave? have you tested long carves yet? most of my guitar top take about 3 hrs
at anywhere form .125" to .80" " i asked this question regarding the eliminator 2



Edit:

sounds like then your 1/2 QC version is a part that screws on to your 1/4" setup" as to your original design" so i only need to buy the new 1/2" base? will it be a allen screw/wedge for a one wrench setup like the Rock?.



can you give us more details are you talking about custom 3/8 tooling? why not use any 3/8"x 1/4" its sold everywhere.

LG

Hi Brandon,
The tooling that i was talking about isnt necessarily custom. You are correct in saying that the 3/8x1/4 shank tools are readily available. But, i have seen many many versions of this tool that are carbid tipped, that are not center cutting. The tools must be center cutting. I truly believe that this is going to be the best, and preferred solution. I just want to make sure that the tools are readily availble and something that can be recommended. If someone were to use a non center cutting tool it will put excessive load on the "Z" truck and will no doubt cause bad things to happen. Center cutting tools are a must. The screw in adapter is an option to this.
I dont think that the majority of the people use 1/2 shank tooling, but if they do need to i want to give them the option to do so. The 1/2 will be the same clamp design. If you are the type of user that you will use the 1/2 on every project, it might make sense to leave 1/2 in the machine, and use sleeves. I am not a big fan of sleeves as most of them are going to have a limited life from clamping in the same spot on them all the time.. It also adds potential for more runout, and there will probably be a slight reduction in the clamp pressure.... They will work, and will probably give you good results, but again, being from the steel working side of things, i have never been a fan.
As far as the chuck slipping, its not going to be a problem. The machine doesnt have enough force to slip the tool at the force pressures i tested trying to push a 1/4" dowel out of the chuck. If you are not satisfied i will buy it back.
Hope that all makes sense. If not let me know..

Happy carving,

Ron

[liquidguitars]

The 1/2 will be the same clamp design. If you are the type of user that you will use the 1/2 on every project, it might make sense to leave 1/2 in the machine, and use sleeves.


dont think that the majority of the people use 1/2 shank tooling


Not just me, im sure sign makers use the 1/2 ogee and round over bits that LHR sells as the "full bit set" not to mention
new projects of the month down stream will need them.

I can live with the sleeves as long as the 1/4 bit works, for that matter i will need the 1/8 for fretwork 2 :)

do i need a new assembly for the 1/2" version or just add the adapter to the 1/4 rock setup?

Thanks Ron for you hard work and your 1/8 bit adapers rock 2..

LG

[rjustice]

.




Not just me, im sure sign makers use the 1/2 ogee and round over bits that LHR sells as the "full bit set" not to mention
new projects of the month down stream will need them.

I can live with the sleeves as long as the 1/4 bit works, for that matter i will need the 1/8 for fretwork 2 :)

do i need a new assembly for the 1/2" version or just add the adapter to the 1/4 rock setup?

Thanks Ron for you hard work and your 1/8 bit adapers rock 2..

LG

You will just need the adapter, the locking collar will stay on the spindle, so ideally, you would never need to use the square tool to hold the spindle again. You will place one thin wrench on the locking collar, and the other on the adapter.
As far as the 1/8 shank tools, the best solution for them is to sleeve them from the 1/4 inch.

Thanks again,

Ron

[Steven Alford]

Ron,
Have you decided on a price for your Rock Chuck yet?

[PCW]

I believe I saw something about that on Carvespot's web site a while back.

http://www.carvespot.com/forum/index.php

[rjustice]

Ron,
Have you decided on a price for your Rock Chuck yet?

Yes Steve, all the info is on my site www.cw-parts.com
just click on the words


There is also a discussion forum going on at www.carvespot.com/forum


Thanks,

Ron

[STEAM]

For some reason every time I click on the link this is all I get. Is it just me or is there something wrong with the link? Any help would be greatly appropriated.

[TerryT]

I got the same thing.

[Deolman]

The links work fine for me.

[Steven Alford]

Ron,
I went to that site and not one of the threads says anything about the price, in fact the ones that say they are for pricing information take you to pages with error messages. It looks like you need to put something up on that website with pricing and ordering information. It also takes you to another forum that you have to register to in order to read the posts. That is more aggravation than I need!!! Please post the price in an easy to access place!!

[fhoward2]

$129.00
Try this address...
http://www.compucarvewright.com/index.php/20090502185/EliminatorRC-Chuck-NEW/menu-id-488.html

[Steven Alford]

Thanks, but that link is for the RC Eliminator chuck not the Rock Chuck which is the title of this thread. Appreciate the effort though.

[Digitalwoodshop]

I believe he is currently out of stock so the buy it link might be disabled.

I bought package 1 with the 1/4 inch and tool kit for $149.00

I also bought 3 more square drive bits as I bet the QC's will not go quietly....

AL

[Rocky]

For some reason every time I click on the link this is all I get. Is it just me or is there something wrong with the link? Any help would be greatly appropriated.

I get the same error, and the site even shows that I am logged in.

[PCW]

The best way to get a hold of Ron till the site gets corrected is by email.
CW_Parts@yahoo.com (CW_Parts@yahoo.com)

[rjustice]

Guys the link should still be working. I know that Tommy is in the middle of a move right now, and cannot address problems with the website. My appologies for the frustration this has caused. If you have not been able to see the info, or use the paypal link just email me directly, and request the info, and i can help you out through email.


Sorry for the growing pains!

Ron

[lostinthefrost]

Ron,

Will you be shipping the first batch out on this monday? For those who have ordered

[Steven Alford]

Ron,
Thanks for the email with the price. Greatly appreciated.

[rjustice]

Ron,

Will you be shipping the first batch out on this monday? For those who have ordered

As long as the "T" handle wrenches that were back ordered arrive, yes everything will ship Tomorrow.

I am uploading a new video to YouTube as i type this. It is a 7 minute video showing the install of the new Rock Chuck

Thanks,

Ron

[ironsides]

...
I am uploading a new video to YouTube as i type this. It is a 7 minute video showing the install of the new Rock Chuck

Thanks,

Ron

Ron,

I watched your new YouTube Video on the Rock Chuck Install. I notice that you did not use Locktite, was this an oversight or does your new chuck not need it.?

ironsides:)

[lostinthefrost]

that video is sweet!!! Cant wait to get mine. My machine is screaming out in my shop for it right now!!!

[Rocky]

that video is sweet!!! Cant wait to get mine. My machine is screaming out in my shop for it right now!!!


Can you provide the link for the video?

[PCW]

New Video
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sP7ueGa1u_U&feature=channel_page

[lostinthefrost]

you beat me to it!!!

[rjustice]

Ron,

I watched your new YouTube Video on the Rock Chuck Install. I notice that you did not use Locktite, was this an oversight or does your new chuck not need it.?

ironsides:)

Very good question Ironsides... The fact that the bit adapter acts like a Jam nut, it is not going anywhere, but it wouldnt be a bad idea to put it on. Using the two thin wrenches tightening against each other, you can get significantly more torque than you can with the square bit. If you do choose to use loctite, I recommend putting it on the locking collar, as it will always stay on the machine. If you are going to be changing out to the 1/2 bit adapter in the future, i would only use a drip on the bit adapter, so that it breaks loose more easily. Remember, use the two flat wrenches to tighten snugly, the square tool will not be needed unless you ever want to remove the locking collar.

Thanks for the question!

Ron

[Digitalwoodshop]

Ron,

So if I purchase a 1/2 inch Rock later, I can just spin the lower part off of the upper piece and install the 1/2 inch.... WOW that is COOL !!!!!!

I don't plan to use any Lock Tite on my setup.

This is SO COOL....

AL

[rjustice]

Ron,

So if I purchase a 1/2 inch Rock later, I can just spin the lower part off of the upper piece and install the 1/2 inch.... WOW that is COOL !!!!!!

I don't plan to use any Lock Tite on my setup.

This is SO COOL....

AL

AL,
Yes this is correct.

[Rocky]

The Rock chuck sounds like a winner, but, I'm sorry to say, the CompuCarveWright web site needs a lot of work. I have been trying for 3 days to get to the pages that describe the Rock and the purchase options with no success. I'm even a member of the site. Signing on and off does not help.

Is anyone else having the same problem with this site?

[supershingler]

rocky

i was having the same problem

just email ron and he will get you the info

kendall

[PCW]

Rocky

The site is having some issues and I think the best way to contact him for the time is to send an email request to CW_Parts@yahoo.com

I know Ron is having someone working on his own web site and should be opened soon. Hope this helps.

[Hank]

During start_up procedures of a new project the machine asks for the installation of all the bits used in a project. On occasion I installed a different cutting bit than the one I used during the start up procedure. The machine knew it was the wrong bit and gave an error. I suspected it new the length of the bit was different when it touched the bit plate. I was wondering when you install the bits during start_up and then again during the cutting stage will the exposed length have to be the same during both procedures? The QC chuck limits the length, the RockChuck does not.

[PCW]

Hi Hank

Below is a quote from Al from digitalwoodshop that he went into great detail explaining this subject one week ago in another post.
_________________________________________________
OK from the Electronic Side of this bit changing and numbers issue.

Lets say you only use one bit.

The machine does it's bit flag and touches the wood and if a cut path touches the right guide plate. Then off it goes cutting with no problem.


Lets say you have a project with 2 bits, carving and cut path.

You would load the cut path bit and it would do the bit flag, touch the board, and touch the right side guide. It would remember the numbers.

You load the carving bit and it does the bit flag and touches the board and Off it goes cutting.

Now it is time to load the Cut Path Bit. It touches the Bit Plate, Board, and Right Side Guide. Somewhere in all that touching it looks at the numbers it got from the initial loading of the bit. It finds the numbers are Different. It asks you? Something to the Effect Bit Length Does NOT MATCH. 1 Continue and 2 Refind the Bit length.

Press 1 and it forgets all about the red headed step child of a first reading and with ALL NEW READINGS, LENGTH, BIT FLAG, BOARD, and RIGHT Side Guide, then OFF it goes cutting your project Forgetting all about the old numbers... DOES NOT MATTER....



Now lets say you have a 4 Bit Project, V60 ad V90 Text.... With the second time you load the bit it will tell you that the bit does NOT match and give you options 1. Continue or 2. Refind..... In every case the fist reading did not matter.


With a 4 bit project I would be tempted to put in the Carving Bit and let it find the bit length, Bit Plate, Board ALL with the Carving Bit not even bothering to put in the V60, V90, or Cut Path Bit. Saving time and just telling the machine to Continue when it found the length different the SECOND and REAL Cutting TIME.

As for a power failure.... If the carving was still in progress at power fail I would do all the bit checks with the carving bit installed to not loose the height.

OR... You could take the Carving Bit out of the machine, throw it up into the air a few times, catch it behind your back, scratch your ear with it.... Then install it back into the machine and let it do all it's bit checks. It will still find the bit length, bit flag, and board face in a uncarved area just like the first time.

IT DOES NOT MATTER..... Only the bit checks right before carving really matter....

A project carved before the power failure will carve the same depth after the power failure.

It is all about 1. The Bit Flag, and 2. Touching the board. If you have a Cut Path then 3. The Right Side Guide. Place a penny on the right side guide and watch your tabs get thicker...

SO bit Depth markers are unnecessary. Getting a short bit like a V60 to stick out enough that while doing deep text you don't run out of Z Down Travel is important.

[roughcut]

Did the T handles arrive? have you shipped ?



As long as the "T" handle wrenches that were back ordered arrive, yes everything will ship Tomorrow.

I am uploading a new video to YouTube as i type this. It is a 7 minute video showing the install of the new Rock Chuck

Thanks,

Ron

[PCW]

Did the T handles arrive? have you shipped ?

roughcut

RJustice is keeping folks up to date over at http://www.carvespot.com/forum

[clockcat]

At 50 hours my CarveWright QC cratered. Thanks to Ron and the Rock Chuck I am back to carving. Ron shipped it out 3 day and the clock business is back in business once again. The machine had begun to sound like a rock crusher but now it is considerably quieter.... No problems positioning the bits, I used shrink tube with super glue and it seems to work fine. Much nicer/easier system.
Tom

[Kenm810]

HeyTom,

Welcome to the CW Forum,
and thanks for sharing you recent experience
with your New Rock Chuck. http://forum.carvewright.com/images/icons/icon14.gif

Ps. Looks like The Rock, Rocks!

[Dan-Woodman]

How much is the new Rock?
later Daniel

[mabco12]

I believe it costs $149 with both wrenches chuck and t-handle.

[Steven Alford]

There is much talk about getting the bit set into the Rock Chuck correctly so that it's length corresponds to what it was when it was in the original QC.

My question is......

When the new Rock Chuck is put in place, is the bottom most protruding point equal to that of the original QC? I guess what I am asking is, is the Rock chuck the same length as the QC?

[PCW]

Steven

The Rock is only 2.5 mm longer so that won't even play into the picture. I think if you set the bits at 1 1/2" from the tip of bit to the chuck you will be OK. It is only important if you are using more than one bit in a project to make sure they are all set the same length.

The bits doesn't have to be set at precise length just within the range of the bits cutting capabilities and the machines limits.

[liquidguitars]

I been testing the Rock 1/2 version with a 5 hr carve yesterday, so far it 2 thumbs up with no slipping with the reducer sleeve.

Next is to test with a more complex pattern with 4 bits. I let you know how it goes with the bit exchange.

I feel better about longer carves.. 8)

LG

[Steven Alford]

Steven

The Rock is only 2.5 mm longer so that won't even play into the picture. I think if you set the bits at 1 1/2" from the tip of bit to the chuck you will be OK. It is only important if you are using more than one bit in a project to make sure they are all set the same length.

The bits doesn't have to be set at precise length just within the range of the bits cutting capabilities and the machines limits.

OK, so if I do a carve with the 1/16" carving bit and then I have to put in the short 60 degree V-groove for some centerline letters, how do you get them to protrude near the same length when the V- grove bit is MUCH shorter than the 1/16" carve bit??

Some people are talking about using shrink tube for reference marking their bits. Do I understand this to be that you would take one of your bits while it is still in the original adapter and put a piece of shrink tube on the bit right up to the underside of the adapter. (Giving you the "length" of the bit). Then remove the bit from the adapter and place it in the new Rock Chuck where the shrink tube touches the bottom of the Rock Chuck.

If this is true, and the QC and the Rock are not the same length, how accurate is this placement?

If this sounds like a stupid question, you should have heard me in High School math class when I argued with the math teacher that 2 + 2 = 5!!!

[Pratyeka]

The only important point about the protuding lenght of whatever bit you use is that it is low enough to reach the lowest point of the carve without bottoming out the Z-truck.

It does not matter if different bits are set at different height, as long as the above condition is met.

The only reason the software of the CW checks twice the lenght of the bit is to idiot-proof the carving process.
If the height is not the same on the second measurement, the machine ask to continue or to measure the bit again. That gives you the opportunity to check if you put the correct bit. If it is the correct bit, then press to continue. The machine will use the measurement it just made.

The benefit of putting some sort of sleeve on the shank of the bit is to accelerate the placement of the bit in the Rock chuck. No eyeballing necessary.

In my modified Eliminator chuck, the bit height is determined by a stopper inside the chuck. No need of sleeve on the bits. Just insert it until it stops, tighten the set screw... done... 5 seconds max...

[liquidguitars]

If this is true, and the QC and the Rock are not the same length, how accurate is this placement?

This is not really a issue Steve, its just getting the bit in the same location each time when running a MPC bit index check.
The next issue is to make sure you have a good DOC but that not related to the Rock but more of a programing thing.

LG

[PCW]

Steven

I haven't had a chance to use a CarveWright 60 degree V-groove bit but I see what you mean because they are only 1 3/4" long. I would have to say that the CarveWright 60 & 90 degree V-groove bits may not work with the current software versions & the Rock (but I am not sure). The software would need to make provisions in it that would allow the machine to measure bits at your request.

There has been some discussion here and Al (aka Al who aka Digitalwoodshop) explained a way to make the machine measure the second bit but I have not tried it.

You may have to use a third party 60 & 90 degree V-groove bits that are long enough. I have other bits so that is not a problem for me.

The machine measures the bit so it is not a critical part of the equation. It knows how long the bit is so as long as you are in the ballpark it doesn't matter on the first bit of the project.

Hope I am making myself clear. Sometimes I think clearer than I type.

[liquidguitars]

Hi Dan,

they have to work! :confused:

I run a min 1/8 scribe " non standered" using Ron's 1/8" bit adapter with the old QC and it not a issue.. even used a snapped off 1/8" cut bit in his adapter a few times for nut slotting and inlay.

This is one of the cool things about the CW as it just needs to index regardless of the depth of the bit.

anyway i will find out soon enough :)

LG

[PCW]

LG

I new I could count on one of the more experience user to give it a good test. I just haven't had a need to yet. I know what his name ah ah Al (Al who) will be given it a work out as well as others here so it is only a matter of time to it is perfectly clear.

For what it is worth it is a nice upgrade. Baby purrs like a kitten rather than roaring like a Lion. :-D

[liquidguitars]

LG

I new I could count on one of the more experience user to give it a good test. I just haven't had a need to yet. I know what his name ah ah Al (Al who) will be given it a work out as well as others here so it is only a matter of time to it is perfectly clear.

For what it is worth it is a nice upgrade. Baby purrs like a kitten rather than roaring like a Lion. :-D


yea its giving me a boost in my moral so far Stoked..

LG

[Steven Alford]

OK, so if I understand what everyone is saying, as long as I put these shrink tubes on each bit, it will get me within tolerable placement? Right?

[liquidguitars]

The only reason the software of the CW checks twice the lenght of the bit is to idiot-proof the carving process.
If the height is not the same on the second measurement, the machine ask to continue or to measure the bit again. That gives you the opportunity to check if you put the correct bit. If it is the correct bit, then press to continue. The machine will use the measurement it just made.

Hi Pratyeka,

the CW only index's once to the wood "important" and twice to the bit flag "not so".. if your off placement the second time you install the same bit your off index and the cut will not be correct as far as i seen. unless you know of a work around as far as I know that not in the firmware programing but could be if requested ..

LG

[liquidguitars]

OK, so if I understand what everyone is saying, as long as I put these shrink tubes on each bit, it will get me within tolerable placement? Right?


yes, i think that around 1/32" difference will be just fine.

Video shows carving a Kung fu flute for Mr. Kwai Chang .

Rocker 1/2 version (http://www.liquidguitars.com/Rocker.wmv)

http://96.9.54.101/liquidguitars.com/assets/images/FluteMaker.jpg

LG

[Pratyeka]

Interesting flute, did you design it yourself or was it a design you found somewhere? I thought the diameter of the bore is supposed to get progressively smaller toward the end. I'll have to research that, it's a neat project for a gift, and if it plays good, the more so.

[James RS]

LG,
I tried the link it brought up a blank page

[liquidguitars]

Interesting flute, did you design it yourself or was it a design you found somewhere? I thought the diameter of the bore is supposed to get progressively smaller toward the end. I'll have to research that, it's a neat project for a gift, and if it plays good, the more so.

I designed the flute in 3D and ported it to designer last year, the bore is straight TYP. Some Scottish pipes have a tapered bore but not flutes per-say. I can post the pattern on my website if their is a request. oh and sounds fantasic.

James, try the link now should work..

LG

[MCGEE2SKINNER]

Hi
I just finished carving a 5x7 picture frame with the ROCK. I could not believe how smooth it turned out. All I had to do is show the sand paper to it and it was done.

JIM

[jeff412]

Hi
I just finished carving a 5x7 picture frame with the ROCK. I could not believe how smooth it turned out. All I had to do is show the sand paper to it and it was done.

JIM


Did you use optimal or Best? Post some photos. Did you carve it with the QC before?

It would be nice to see a before and after carve. (i.e. QC vs. Rock) I know Al has posted some, but I think he was having issues with his QC at the time.

Jeff

[MCGEE2SKINNER]

Hi
Here are 2 files for the rock and qc. I don't know if you can see the differance
buy the rock was a lot smoother.

JIM

[Dhaffner]

I, for one, would LOVE it if you posted the pattern for the flute at your website....I think it would be a great gift for someone...

[Rocky]

I've been trying to keep up with all the threads and posts discussing the Rock and how to ensure that the bit is properly placed in the Rock (put a mark on the bit, no need to mark the bit, use shrink washers, ignore CW messages regarding bit, press continue, etc.). I know that all are trying to be of help, and it's appreciated. I'm hoping that someone can summarize the proper procedure, perhaps blessed by Ron, and make it available to those of us (maybe just me) who need some clarification.

Thanks,

[Pratyeka]

I've been trying to keep up with all the threads and posts discussing the Rock and how to ensure that the bit is properly placed in the Rock (put a mark on the bit, no need to mark the bit, use shrink washers, ignore CW messages regarding bit, press continue, etc.). I know that all are trying to be of help, and it's appreciated. I'm hoping that someone can summarize the proper procedure, perhaps blessed by Ron, and make it available to those of us (maybe just me) who need some clarification.

Thanks,

The easiest way is to put some kind of stopper so the bit will have the same height every time you put it in. That's it. The machine will not ask to confirm if the bit height is consistant.

Two ways to do this. stopper inside the chuck, or collar on the bits.

If you ever get a Z-axis error, it's because the bit does not extend far enough under the chuck and the Z-truck bottoms out when trying to reach the deepest points of the carve. Just adjust the bit stopper.

[rjustice]

The easiest way is to put some kind of stopper so the bit will have the same height every time you put it in. That's it. The machine will not ask to confirm if the bit height is consistant.

Two ways to do this. stopper inside the chuck, or collar on the bits.

If you ever get a Z-axis error, it's because the bit does not extend far enough under the chuck and the Z-truck bottoms out when trying to reach the deepest points of the carve. Just adjust the bit stopper.

Rocky,
I hereby bless this post!... LOL... Pratyeka is correct. We thought there was a problem but there wasn't. But, if you use a stop, which i recommend one on the outside of the bit, you wont have the machine even stop and ask you to press 1 or 2... it will just keep going if it touches off the bit at the same length. There are going to be more accessories released by the end of next weekend to address all of this, in the meantime, I like the heat shrink tubing just fine. Cheap, easy, and gets the job done.

Happy Carving,

Ron

[hess]

OK, so if I understand what everyone is saying, as long as I put these shrink tubes on each bit, it will get me within tolerable placement? Right?

Some of us are using small rubber O rings and super glue them in place They work great.

Another trick to the change out is to hold the back side of the clamp nut and push in on the T tool and turn to the left until the bit releases. Then just slide the other bit in places (while keeping the T tool in place) . Soon you will be able to feel were the release happens and will be no big deal.

There are some post about it on CarveSpot all are welcome join or just look around. If you go there please put your mark on locations map at the top. It is good to see where we all are at and know there may be someone close by to help or just visit and exchange ideas.

Thanks Hess

[rjustice]

Some of us are using small rubber O rings and super glue them in place They work great.

Another trick to the change out is to hold the back side of the clamp nut and push in on the T tool and turn to the left until the bit releases. Then just slide the other bit in places (while keeping the T tool in place) . Soon you will be able to feel were the release happens and will be no big deal.

There are some post about it on CarveSpot all are welcome join or just look around. If you go there please put your mark on locations map at the top. It is good to see where we all are at and know there may be someone close by to help or just visit and exchange ideas.

Thanks Hess

Hess,
Thanks for mentioning this... We can start a Tips and tricks of the Rock on the www.Carvespot.com/forum

Thanks,

Ron

[easybuilt]

I use the o rings and plastic tubing on the bit so I don't cut myself. It works great. I like your idea to get the bits out. It works great! This chuck makes life so much easier. Thanks!

[rjustice]

I use the o rings and plastic tubing on the bit so I don't cut myself. It works great. I like your idea to get the bits out. It works great! This chuck makes life so much easier. Thanks!

Thanks for mentioning that Tom. I added that to the tips and tricks post on www.carvespot.com/forum.

That is a good safety tip.


Ron

[Rocky]

Thanks, folks. Your responses were very helpful. I'm looking forward to receiving the Rock I ordered. By the way, where is a good place to get the shrink wraps? Is there a certain size that fits best on 1/4" bit?

Thanks again,

[Kenm810]

Hi Rocky,
I got mine at Radio Shack (different colors and sizes for different Bits)
Our local TrueValue Hardware Store also has sizes from 5/8” to 1/8” in black
I use my heat gun to shrink it rather than an open flame (a little easier to control the shrink rate)
As for size, I just took a bit with me to see which size worked best

Multicolor Heat-Shrink Tubing (12-Pack) $3.99
Model: 278-1610
Catalog #: 278-1610

[Digitalwoodshop]

I did some signs today that used the carving, 1/8 inch cutting and 3/8 plunge bit. Put the 1/4 inch locking rings with the set screw on the bits and did not have any length errors.

The machine was much quieter and I was sanding out on the deck and had to turn off the pad Sander to hear if the CW was at bit change.... That was a change... The quality of the cuts were much better.

I did mess up slightly... I put the locking ring on the on the 1/8 inch cutting bit about 3/8 to 1/2 inch from the cutting flutes. I saw at the bit plate that the tip of the bit was 3/8 of an inch above the plate.

When the bit spun up at bit change it was still spinning down when the head did the left side bob. It drilled a 1/8 inch hole in the plastic of the brass roller..... Normally the bit never touched the brass roller plate, this time being longer it did.... Saw the plastic burr on the bit tip at the bit flag.

To finish the carving, I just opened the cover after spin up while it was going over to the left. Project came out good.

Moved the locking ring to just before the flutes start on the 1/8 inch bit making it shorter next time.

SO my first 3 bit experience with the ROCK was FANTASTIC..... GOOD JOB RON.

AL

[James RS]

yes, i think that around 1/32" difference will be just fine.

Video shows carving a Kung fu flute for Mr. Kwai Chang .

Rocker 1/2 version (http://www.liquidguitars.com/Rocker.wmv)

http://96.9.54.101/liquidguitars.com/assets/images/FluteMaker.jpg

LG

LG do you happen to have a pattern for this flute you could share? I'm thinking I might make one for my niece who is taking clarinet.

Thanks,
Jim

[newcarver]

That is all I can say to be honest, wow. The rock is the golden ticket. Quiet, smooth and easy to install and use.

[Hank]

I bonded nylon spacers to all my bits. These s-pacers are available at Lowe's in the small parts drawers. They are: .5 OD x .257 ID X .250 L I bonded them to the bits with Loctite Plastic Bonder (also at Lowe's). The spacers are a bit sloppy on the shaft, but the bonder has a medium viscosity and holds well.
The spacers are 92 cents for two and the bonder was $3.29. See Attached. They work fine I have about 10 hrs on the carving bit, 40 minutes on the 1/8 cutter and 20 minutes on the 90 D V bit. I figure if and when a permanent solution is found I can knock off the spacers, put the bit in a drill and sand the excess glue off with 400 wet dry paper.

[earlyrider]

Just soak the bits in acetone for a few hours, and forget the sanding!
Ron

[roughcut]

Below is a HF link for a 7 Piece Drill Stop Set for $1.99 I used the 1/4" ones for the depth of my bits works great for me

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=38336

[Digitalwoodshop]

Hank,

Tell me if you drill into your brass roller plate at that length? I did.

AL

[Digitalwoodshop]

Got a ROCK compliment today from my Step Father saying that my Carving machine was much much quiter... He could barley hear it at the house.... For the people who had Noise Complaints from the neighbors this might be part of the answer.

AL

[TerryT]

I guess I haven't been following to closely. I see a lot on the rock but not on the eliminator. Is development still progressing on this or did the designer decide not to get involved?

[PCW]

Terry

Joe did not want to make a commitment till he had 500 orders. In my opinion he missed the boat. Ron stepped up and beat him to the punch and knocked him out. Joe may get up but who knows when or if.

[Digitalwoodshop]

It's 9:15 PM and my Carving Machine is just making the last cuts on 4 signs I have been working on today.

I was thinking while changing 3 bits for 4 two sided signs today what I like and don't like about the ROCK....

Well the first Don't LIKE is.... "Now when I FAT Finger and drop the bit while changing, it drops into the slot between the belts". That happen 3 times today, and I had to use needle nose pliers to get it back.... With the Bit Holder it never fell into the crack.... BUMMER..... NOT !!!!!
The answer is to not FAT FINGER the bits..... It's not really a problem... Messing with RON.....:-D

SO... With the set screw ring stop, It makes a handy thing to push up the bit, holding it snug to the ROCK while snugging the ROCK. holding the side of the bit and the ring.

As for the Eliminator, I decided to stick with the ROCK and with 3 machines eventually have three 1/4 inch Rocks and one Half inch head to swap to a machine that I want to use a 1/2 inch bit. Normally I will only use 1/4 inch bits. It would be less effective to install a eliminator on the other machines.

I also think the boat has sailed and getting 500 paid orders will be very unlikely. At this time I would not buy one.

AL

[supershingler]

finally got some time to install my rock. everything everyone says about it is true.

no vibration, only noise is the cut motor running.
i came upstairs and my wife ask if i was going to carve anything tonight and i laughed and said the carver was running. she couldnt believe it. she can actually yell for me in the basement and i can hear her(now i guess i cant pretend i didnt).

if have to give this 2 thumbs up for sure.

now if my bit changes go as planned lol

thank ron im sold

kendall

[Old Salt]

Installed my on two cavewrights yesterday .

I can hear ,how sweet it is!

My vac is now louder than the carvewright.

Machine runs smooth, life is good.

Funny how little things in life can make your day.

Thanks To The Rock

[hess]

Installed my on two cavewrights yesterday .

I can hear ,how sweet it is!

My vac is now louder than the carvewright.

Machine runs smooth, life is good.

Funny how little things in life can make your day.

Thanks To The Rock

No more "spin Cycle" vibe?

They do run smoother if noting else can be said. Smooth has to be OK

[Rick P]

YES !!! Less noise and less vibration with the ROCK...cleaner, crisper carving too.

One thing I found is that 1/8" bits from PreciseBits.com that have the 1/4" bushing will not fit into the 1/4" Rock ... at least not right out of the tube. The 1/4" bushing has to be abraded down about .001" or so.

Anyone else run into this issue ???

[Jeff_Birt]

The 1/4" bushing has to be abraded down about .001" or so.

Arrrggggg!!!!!!!!!!!!! Don't do that! You just introduced all sort of run-out in the bit. I've not had an issue with the bushings. I don't have a Rock Chuck here but wonder what its ID is when opened up to change bits?

[rjustice]

Arrrggggg!!!!!!!!!!!!! Don't do that! You just introduced all sort of run-out in the bit. I've not had an issue with the bushings. I don't have a Rock Chuck here but wonder what its ID is when opened up to change bits?

Hi Jeff,
The bore in the Rock Chuck is designed to perfectly fit industry standard shank tolerances. My guess is that the sleeves that are shrunk on the tools were at nominal size on the OD before they were shrunk fit on, and are therefore larger on the OD by the amount of the interference fit.

Ron

[badger]

rjustice,

Received it today, had a problem where the old QC broke about 47% into an 84" in length carve. Yes in the past I would have been knocking holes in the cinderblock, however somewhere in the last two years Ive learned to go with the flow and not worry so much about it.

I lifted the lid and hoped for the best and waited on the rock to arrive. I took off the old QC, install the new rock (video was great btw) closed the cover crossing fingers and away she went carving smoother and quieter than ever.

For those wondering I lifted that lid back on the 6th and left the machine on. Changed the QC's and it picked right back up where it left off. Did worry about a couple thunderstorms in the past couple days but then remembered I just had a surge protector installed in the fuse box two weeks ago.

Again thanks RJ.

[PCW]

RJ

Six days that was a long time my friend. I am glad that your patients paid out for you. Like they say good things come to those who wait.

[TerryT]

rjustice,

Yes in the past I would have been knocking holes in the cinderblock, however somewhere in the last two years Ive learned to go with the flow and not worry so much about it.

LOL!!!! YOu must be an ex cop. In the past I would have used the ol' HD40 (with hydroshock hollow points). Now the wife says I'm too laid back. She thinks we have traded places. She is doing what I used to do and I am the one saying "Now honey, it isn't that important". To tell the truth, I wish I had my "old man" attitude even when I was a cop. Life would have been better and I might live longer.

Hey, remember that old commercial? I think it was for Honda. It showed everyone being very cool. The cops drove hondas and smoked pipes!

[PCW]

Terry

I think that comes natural with age and thank god it does. It has something to do with wisdom and a lot less stress (I think).:-D

[badger]

LOL!!!! YOu must be an ex cop.


Still am. This actually sums it up real well.



http://uslawman.websitetoolbox.com/post?id=903258&trail=

Im currently in the Superiority Stage getting close to the Acceptance Stage.

Ive just learned with the CW that sh** happens and there is nothing I can do to stop it so why worry and get upset about it. If I didnt beleive in the CW I would not have bought a second one and now beleive I do have the paitence to work with them.

[TerryT]

True enough. It is what it is, everywhere it seems.

[want2b]

30 years ago one of my a senior person where I had just started working made a statement that I still use in retirement. He said "Before you go crazy over anything, stop and think, "will it make a difference or will anyone care in 50 years?".
made me think, made life easier, Rick H.

[gwiz]

Hi All,
This is what I did to my bits so it is easy to change them out.
It is 1/4" auto gas line form an auto parts store. Cost about .40 cents.
With the 1/8 cut bit and carvebits I superglued the hose on. It has held reaally well. I particularly like the rubber as it it has a somewhat minor damping effect on the bit. They are also easier to hold with my fat little fingers.

Tom

[Jeff_Birt]

This is what I did to my bits so it is easy to change them out.

This will seriously unbalance the bit. The heatshrink idea is much better.



My guess is that the sleeves that are shrunk

No Ron, they do not shrink on the bushings. They are cold fit in a very precise manner (hence the 0.0004 TIR). It could be that both the RC and bushings were on the outside of the tolerance range, it could also be the the bushing/bit had been dropped ans dinged up, it could also be that the RC clamp relaxes just a bit over time?

[eromran]

rjustice,

Received it today, had a problem where the old QC broke about 47% into an 84" in length carve. Yes in the past I would have been knocking holes in the cinderblock, however somewhere in the last two years Ive learned to go with the flow and not worry so much about it.

I lifted the lid and hoped for the best and waited on the rock to arrive. I took off the old QC, install the new rock (video was great btw) closed the cover crossing fingers and away she went carving smoother and quieter than ever.

For those wondering I lifted that lid back on the 6th and left the machine on. Changed the QC's and it picked right back up where it left off. Did worry about a couple thunderstorms in the past couple days but then remembered I just had a surge protector installed in the fuse box two weeks ago.

Again thanks RJ.Seems this would be a good opportunity to post a picture of how the QC carved VS The Rock on the same project if there is a noticeable difference.

[hess]

Seems this would be a good opportunity to post a picture of how the QC carved VS The Rock on the same project if there is a noticeable difference.

I have problem posting pics but do have to say that using the Rock my best setting is as good as the optm setting. I run both until we see were it all goes and I use up the rest of the extra QCs I got

But I really feel the carve with less vibes shows even using just old yellow pine with select you can see it clear as day

Hess

[SteveEJ]

I have problem posting pics but do have to say that using the Rock my best setting is as good as the optm setting. I run both until we see were it all goes and I use up the rest of the extra QCs I got

But I really feel the carve with less vibes shows even using just old yellow pine with select you can see it clear as day

Hess

I have to agree with Hess.. I just installed the Rock Chuck and my carvings are better than when the machine was new. I still use Optimum setting but that helps reduce cleanup. I just finished a carve and I did a complete, ready to finish, cleanup with 3m discs in less than 5 minutes and that was really taking my time. The carved area was 7" X 14". The Raster text had no chip outs and everything was VERY GOOD!

As a side note, vibration is a non factor anymore. The black knob on the deck height handle doesn't move/rotate while carving!

[Digitalwoodshop]

Had a thought the other day how the weakness of the QC has had such a negative effect on the machine.

We as woodworkers tend to not replace the QC until it leaves nasty BB marks in the bit holders... Or like I posted yesterday, we have all tried the quick fix... Replacing just the bit holders and then getting BB Marks in just one project.

I think a vibration sensor should be installed in new models with a fault code showing QC Vibration.

Just look how the vibration issue has Could have caused so many faults:

Early Z Encoder failures
Board Sensor Failure with LED breaking off
L2 coil Failure
C1 Capacitor Failure on the X Termination Board

Installing the Rock eliminates the vibration and should end or limit further problems caused by vibration.

Think of all the Warranty parts and purchased parts that have been replaced due to vibration.

Think of all the 800 number calls that were paid for by LHR and the amount of parts replaced due to vibration related calls. Had the machine been designed with a 2 wrench Bit Chuck I believe things would have been much different..

The Rock will solve so many issues... Every Rock installed is money in the bank for the CW Owner... You won't need to replace the future C1 failures. Last summer I replaced 2 X Tremination Boards caused by vibration on my 800 and 500 hour machine.

AL

[badger]

As with anything, time will be the ultimate test. If six months down the line everyone is still reporting good results with no other problems that would be the time to start seeing whether or not they try and adopt the new chuck into future machines.

A good company knows how to survive by looking at what the customer likes and works for them not to say they havent, LHR has what I beleive a good customer base and does listen to them. They have patched the machine with what we wanted...yea sometimes what we didnt want but hey Im sure they are still testing away to try and make it a continuing good product.

[Digitalwoodshop]

I agree, they have been very responsive to user requests.

Since the QC is there pride and joy, it is only right that they hold that as the golden egg in the machine. The nature of the beast.

Time will tell, but just the act of reducing the diameter of the device holding the bit must play into the balance and vibration problems....

Just take a large diameter anything and put it in your drill press and turn up the speed... The bigger the item the easier it vibrated..... Decrease the diameter and then the item is more forgiving of slight balance issues...

I think the QC is just too big in diameter and subject to balance issues and wear issues holding the bit by 3 ball bearings.... If it had 9 ball bearings it might have been better.... 3 ball bearings and the small surface area pressing on a bit holder... Had the QC design had smaller and MORE bearings spreading out the pressure it might have been better....

AL

[PCW]

I agree that the Rock Chuck is balanced and has greatly reduced vibration/noise. I'm glad that I replaced my machines with the Rock and I know that this investment will pay for itself quick with less wear and tear on the machine.

The Rock Chuck is solid and I wouldn't be afraid to put it on a 50K machine. It has quality written all over it and I understand why Ron put a life time guarantee on the chuck because it will out last the machine. I think you could take it off reuse it on several machines before it would fail.

Al (Who)
I don't want a new senor (God No) just need for the machine to run smother. :-D

[easybuilt]

Hi All,
This is what I did to my bits so it is easy to change them out.
It is 1/4" auto gas line form an auto parts store. Cost about .40 cents.
With the 1/8 cut bit and carvebits I superglued the hose on. It has held reaally well. I particularly like the rubber as it it has a somewhat minor damping effect on the bit. They are also easier to hold with my fat little fingers.

Tom

I have the ROCK and I put a o ring on my v-groove bits and I see how you put the tubing on your's. Does the additional space make a difference in the cut. I put my o ring just above the yellow paint. I have my carving and cutting bit 1 3/8". Is there a standard I should have the stops at? Seems the be cutting ok.
Tom

[gwiz]

Jeff, you state that putting the rubber gas line tubing on the bits would seriously unbalance them. Could you explain this to me please, as it is just soft rubber and is uniform in diameter. Is there something I am missing. I ran the bits with and without the rubber on them and they seem the same. Always looking to learn something new.....

Thanks
Tom

[Jeff_Birt]

The rubber adds a significant mass w.r.t. the bit. The tubing is most likely not balanced. The imbalance is tough on bearings. A small piece of shrink tubing has much less mass and much less possibility to cause problems.

Just a thought...

[hess]

The rubber adds a significant mass w.r.t. the bit. The tubing is most likely not balanced. The imbalance is tough on bearings. A small piece of shrink tubing has much less mass and much less possibility to cause problems.

Just a thought...

I agree with Jeff here. The gas tube isnot as refined so it may no be the best for staying round

I used the o rings and placed them in a DP glued and spun them till the Superglue hi its balance point the hit it with acell and it struck worked well

You can buy a big box of ring at HF for minimal cost

I tend to feel the larger the hold on clamp the more chance to be out ot round

Hi Jeff love your back light will another another this week better than Sliced bread or so other thinks at my age

[BBrooks]

I'll preface my Rock comments by saying that LHR has made a great product and the QC was the best choice for a "point, click, carve" out of the box experience. Easier for inexperienced folks and average joe to handle and for them to support. Makes sense.

With about 100 carve hours on my well maintained CW, I have been having some trouble with smoothness of carve, even on optimal, and very rough cutouts with chipping. After Rock install (3 minutes, great video Ron) that is gone.
I'm no sound expert but I would guess the decibel level dropped an easy 25 percent. It could be a perception because the higher pitch levels of the sound caused by vibration are gone.

The CW is great as is for many folks. For those more experienced that normally push equipment to their limits, the Rock is a great investment.
Cheers,

[ChrisAlb]

I've been watching this thread and by most of the comments, I'm guessing the rock is a nice chuck. My buddy Al swears by it and says it cuts better, has less vibration and runs quieter. That in and of itself means a lot because I trust Al's opinions and observations.

I don't have one to do a "side by side" comparison so perhaps these comments are moot but, I have to say that my CW runs very quiet and when I place my hand on it I feel almost no vibration at all. No more than say my router or my table or chop saws. It runs very smooth. With over 430 hours on the first QC (which I believe I killed) and now over 80 on the second one and running fine, I see no problem with the QC.

On the comment about using gas tube on the bits, I'd be more concerned about heat transfer (or the lack there of) than the balance issue. Although I do agree with Jeff that in simple terms, more mass has more "potential" for imbalance when spinning at high speeds. I think that hose would retain a lot of heat and over time, lead to dulling the bits faster.

Just my 2 cents

[Digitalwoodshop]

I don't think you will find anything bad posted about the ROCK except "I wish I had it a few Hundred Dollars Earlier in my Machine life...." And that is nothing bad about the ROCK...

Took some pictures of my version of a Bit Stop and the added advantage for me is when I push the bit up into the ROCK the stop give me something to push on rather then the end of the bit.

The long bit on top is a 1/16 end mill used in my Star 912 that was 6 inches long for top loading. I cut it off with my Chain Saw Chain Sharpener. Need to cut more off, I must remove the board to get it in the ROCK. I don't have a Bit stop as with the Tag Cutting Projects I only use one bit for now.

The 3/8 is a Plunge Bit and I make the Outline Text Wood Signs with it. If you look at the LHR 3/8 bit, it does not have a cutter on the tip in the center. Sometimes when the Machine Cuts things like a "A" with a fine center the bit does plunge cuts around the center of the Capitol A. With the LHR Bit it left a piece of un cut wood in the center. The Plunge Bit I got from MCLS.com cuts great.

The V Bits are missing some orange paint as I have a Brass Wire Brush and Acetone and clean the bits and it removes the paint.

Works for me.

Thanks RON...:)

AL

[rjustice]

Thanks for the feedback from everyone....

AL, thanks for the picture of the stops... Did you notice any difference in the sound/vibration with the collars?... the setscrew does take the balance off a little based on the depth that the setscrew is below the face of the collar, and the missing material where you put the allen wrench into the setscrew... Anything to report?

Thanks,

Ron

[Kenm810]

I went a little different rout,
I used Nylon compression ferrules and sleeves.
Their very small, snug, extremely strong and light,
a drop of epoxy or super glue hold them in place.
I did try a couple of my 1/8" Precise Carving Bits with 1/4" slevese on them in my new Rock Chuck
and they slipped in easily and fit fine.

The 1/4" ferrules cost me 12 Cents and the 1/2" were 26 Cents each,
so when the 1/2" Rock Chuck becomes available I should be all set. :wink:

[PCW]

Ken

I like this idea. They are light & I can't see the Nylon compression ferrules coming loose easily. Best part is they are cheap.

[Digitalwoodshop]

No vibration noted with the set screw version. I do like the nylon sleeves.... Something to look for on my next visit to the big box store...

AL

[SteveEJ]

Ken

I like this idea. They are light & I can't see the Nylon compression ferrules coming loose easily. Best part is they are cheap.

I did something very similar. Mine are nylon but a little larger and used superglue to hold them on. It works great!

Steve

[mabco12]

Ken,
How did you get the height of where to place the ferrule? Did you measure an existing bit in the old QC for height from tip to collar? I am curious because I think the rock is my next purchase and I like the nylon ferrule route you chose.

[Digitalwoodshop]

I know you didn't ask me but....:p

Look at my placement with the metal rings on post 114. I had the 1/8 inch further toward the back end making a longer bit in my Rock and saw it was only 3/8 of an inch above the bit plate before going down. Normally it is about 3/4 of an inch. When I installed it, the bit spun up and when it went to do the left side BOB down the bit was still coasting to a stop and drilled a hole in the brass roller plate. Next time I opened the top cover while it was going left to let the cut motor coast to a stop first. After the project finished I moved it to it's present location.

AL

13 pages and 120 Posts and almost 5000 looks.... Ron.... Can I have your "Autograph".... How about a picture to hang next to my Picture of NORM from NYW in my Wood Shop..... You are the MAN !!!!

[mabco12]

Al,
Sorry I didn't even think about asking you but thanks for the input. I now have to fix the 248 stall with a new z bundle that will happen probably this week. I may be in touch to get some more input and advice from you. Thanks again for the knowledge and support.

[rjustice]

I know you didn't ask me but....:p

13 pages and 120 Posts and almost 5000 looks.... Ron.... Can I have your "Autograph".... How about a picture to hang next to my Picture of NORM from NYW in my Wood Shop..... You are the MAN !!!!

AL.... wayyyyy too funny... Lori says you would enjoy a nice picture of our Bassett hound flash a whole lot more!!! we can include a paw print on it too she says....LOL

Thanks for the kind words!... no... AL "Who" is the MAN!!!

Happy Carving!

Ron

[Digitalwoodshop]

Al,
Sorry I didn't even think about asking you but thanks for the input. I now have to fix the 248 stall with a new z bundle that will happen probably this week. I may be in touch to get some more input and advice from you. Thanks again for the knowledge and support.


Thanks Ron !!!!

Mabco,

I did not want to jump in answering someone else question..... But you know me.... Any question is a reason to post....:roll: (Doesn't AL have a life?).... No....;)

As for changing the Z Bundle, I think taking pictures of the Flat Cable before removing it for the bends helped me.... I also recommend laying the cable on top of the old cable making sure it was pins facing the right way. Then make the folds over top then change it out.

Good Luck,

AL

[Digitalwoodshop]

Just finished cutting my first Oval sign with the Rock, a replacement for a lost sign on the way to a customer.

WOW you should have heard the different sound of the 1/8 inch cutting bit as it was racing around the 20 inch oval 3 times..... And accurate.... The Sound was a high pitch as the bit cut smoke free. That kind of high pitch of being held solid.... ROCK SOLID !!!! The slot was 1/8 inch wide not 1/8 inch plus bit fludder.....

Good Job Ron !!!!:rolleyes:

AL

[Kenm810]

Mabco12

Yep, I measured the original lengths of each bit in the QC Chuck
and used that as a guide to where I wanted the tip of the bits
to be from a predetermined reference point on the carving head
of the "Z" Truck to index my new Rock Chuck.

The 1/4" ID. nylon ferrules have been used for the last 20 years or so
in Home Plumbing, Furnace Humidifiers, Refrigerator Ice Makers, and so on.

You can find them at nearly any Hardware Store, Building Supply Out Let,
or any kind of a store that has a plumbing section.
I picked up an extra pack of 10 at a local KMart. :wink:

[rjustice]

HI Fellow Carvers...
The 1/2" Bit adapters for the Rock are now available on my website... simply specify which size (1/4 or 1/2) you want upon checkout...

Also,
The "High precision" adapter sleeves are in the works, but I'm not ready to commit to a date on them yet...

Thanks,

Ron

[Kenm810]

Thanks again Ron,

My order for your new 1/2" Rock Chuck plus a extra 1/4" adapter
for my Rock Kit #1 went in at 6:00 am the this morning. :grin:

[rjustice]

Thanks again Ron,

My order for your new 1/2" Rock Chuck plus a extra 1/4" adapter
for my Rock Kit #1 went in at 6:00 am the this morning. :grin:

Thanks Ken!...

[swhitney]

1/2" adapter ordered here. Love the chuck, Much More Quiet!!! - plans are to replace 2nd machine's QC as funds become available!! Thanx!!!

[PCW]

You can find them at nearly any Hardware Store, Building Supply Out Let,
or any kind of a store that has a plumbing section.
I picked up an extra pack of 10 at a local KMart. :wink:

Ken, I think you hit a home run with this idea. I picked up some of these Nylon compression Ferrules at Home Depot today in the 1/4" but HD doesn't carry them in the 1/2" version.

The package list them at 1/4" OD but they are 1/4" ID and 3/8 OD so I'm assuming that they are referring that it fit's 1/4" tubing.

Trade name for the ferrules is Delrin Sleeve

[Kenm810]

Yep those are the ones! :wink:
I like how snug they fit without binding, plus
their completely semitic and weigh almost nothing.

[locovalley]

I just placed my order for the 1/2" version of the Rock and I feel like a kid waiting for Christmas! I can't wait to get it installed and enjoy the happy experiences all the other carvers are having. I may even get to carve at night again since I can't carve during the day cuz I got this new J.O.B. 8)

JM

[SteveEJ]

I just placed my order for the 1/2" version of the Rock and I feel like a kid waiting for Christmas! I can't wait to get it installed and enjoy the happy experiences all the other carvers are having. I may even get to carve at night again since I can't carve during the day cuz I got this new J.O.B. 8)

JM

JM,
You will enjoy the Rock. I think you will see and hear a difference right away. Do your self a favor though.. Measure the bits from the tips to the QC bit holder and annotate this for reference. Go to Home Depot or another source and get the nylon parts mentioned above along with some Loctite super glue with accelerator and glue the bushings so the stop in the Rock is at about the same length as with the QC. Also, take the proper care and precautions when removing the QC. BTW, the removal time is also a good time to re-lube the shaft with Moly!

Enjoy and post your personal experience with the Rock!

Happy Carving,
Steve

[ChrisAlb]

A question. It would seem that you have a choice of either the 1/4" or 1/2" chucks/adapters. So does this mean that I'd have to switch chucks/adapters in mid carve if I'm carving something that requires both?

I routinely carve projects that use both the 1/4" and 1/2" shaft bits and in many cases, because of the order the CW wants those bits, it's back and forth between them.

Just curious.

[PCW]

Chris

The Rock chuck come in two parts. Top part (collar) stays on the machine and then you would have to swap out adapters between 1/2 to 1/4.

If I remember right Ron is going to offers a 1/2 collet style chuck with different size collets as well but I have no idea when.

[rjustice]

A question. It would seem that you have a choice of either the 1/4" or 1/2" chucks/adapters. So does this mean that I'd have to switch chucks/adapters in mid carve if I'm carving something that requires both?

I routinely carve projects that use both the 1/4" and 1/2" shaft bits and in many cases, because of the order the CW wants those bits, it's back and forth between them.

Just curious.

Hi Chris,
There is a post about this very question on the carvespot forum, but i have been asked about it several times, so this is a copy of the info...

If you mainly carve with the 1/4” shank tools, I would leave the 1/4" bit adapter in the machine, and use the sleeve for the 1/8 tools. On the odd occasion you need the 1/2” shank, just unscrew the 1/4" adapter and change over, then change back when your done…. would probably take less that one minute...

If you use the 1/2” shank tools a lot, it may make more sense for you to leave the 1/2" in the machine, and use sleeves on your 1/4” and your 1/8” tools..

My only issue is that whenever you use a sleeve, you give up something, whether it is runout, or balance, or gripping power…. All of which are extremely minimal due to the tolerances i am holding on these parts. They are very insignificant in this application, but in the precision steel cutting industry, I continue to say… “I’m not a fan”

The sleeves will work just fine in this application, and they are a balanced design. Runout will be far far less than what is normally seen on the QC. I guess its just the steel cutting side of me that makes me cautious!

Hope that makes sense…

Ron

[ChrisAlb]

Dan,

That's what I thought. Thanks.

I wonder if it would be possible to use a compression sleeve on the 1/4" bits to fit in the 1/2" adapter so switching them would no longer be necessary?

I have two reservations about the way it is now. First, just the time to do the switching back and forth. Second, (although I've never had this happen yet) working on the machine while powered on in mid carve is "potentially" dangerous what with the "questionable" cover switches and all...lol

[ChrisAlb]

Hi Chris,
There is a post about this very question on the carvespot forum, but i have been asked about it several times, so this is a copy of the info...

If you mainly carve with the 1/4” shank tools, I would leave the 1/4" bit adapter in the machine, and use the sleeve for the 1/8 tools. On the odd occasion you need the 1/2” shank, just unscrew the 1/4" adapter and change over, then change back when your done…. would probably take less that one minute...

If you use the 1/2” shank tools a lot, it may make more sense for you to leave the 1/2" in the machine, and use sleeves on your 1/4” and your 1/8” tools..

My only issue is that whenever you use a sleeve, you give up something, whether it is runout, or balance, or gripping power…. All of which are extremely minimal due to the tolerances i am holding on these parts. They are very insignificant in this application, but in the precision steel cutting industry, I continue to say… “I’m not a fan”

The sleeves will work just fine in this application, and they are a balanced design. Runout will be far far less than what is normally seen on the QC. I guess its just the steel cutting side of me that makes me cautious!

Hope that makes sense…

Ron

Hey Ron,

OK...LOL...you just answered my last post before I posted it.

I use both sizes in about a 50/50 mix. So the 1/2" with sleeves for the 1/4" would probably be best. I don't have any 1/8" shafts at all.

[rjustice]

Dan,

I wonder if it would be possible to use a compression sleeve on the 1/4" bits to fit in the 1/2" adapter so switching them would no longer be necessary?

I have two reservations about the way it is now. First, just the time to do the switching back and forth. Second, (although I've never had this happen yet) working on the machine while powered on in mid carve is "potentially" dangerous what with the "questionable" cover switches and all...lol

Yes there will be sleeves to go

for the 1/4" Rock chuck

1/4 to 3/16
1/4 to 1/8

for the 1/2" Rock chuck

1/2 to 3/8
1/2 to 1/4
1/2 to 3/16
1/2 to 1/8

Ron

[jab73180]

hey ron is the rock chuck in stock. if not how long is the wait. i would need just the rock and t handle.

[rjustice]

hey ron is the rock chuck in stock. if not how long is the wait. i would need just the rock and t handle.

I have 1/4" in stock ready to ship. It is looking like Friday to ship 1/2" versions, and i am also hoping to have sleeves ready by the weekend, perhaps monday.

Please be sure to ID which size you want at checkout... 1/4 or 1/2...

Thanks,

Ron

[Rocky]

I just received my "rock". Is it necessary to use anything like loctite when the "rock" is installed?


Thanks,

[pine acres woodshop]

No, I wouldn't use any the Rock holds quite well when it is completely installed.

[rjustice]

I just received my "rock". Is it necessary to use anything like loctite when the "rock" is installed?


Thanks,

HI Rocky,
If you want to put a couple drops on the locking collar, which is the first piece that you screw onto the spindle, you wont need to take that one back off. This piece will keep you from having to ever use the small square tool again while using the Rock system.
The bit adapter has been tested over and over without using loctite, and i havent heard of but one problem with it, and it was due to improper mounting. The key is that you need to make sure that you get the locking collar on all the spindle all the way, so that when you screw the bit adapter in, there is a slight gap between the bit adpater and the locking collar when they are tight. This indicates that you are tightening the bit adapter up against the spindle nose, and not bottoming it out in the locking collar.
Make sure you tighten up the bit adpater with the two thin wrenches, not the square tool. you can snug it up pretty good using the two long wrenches, and not have it back off due to the "Jam nut" effect you get.

Happy carving!

Ron

[Wilbur]

I have not used any loctite and not a problem after 98 hr run time using the Rock.

Wilbur

[SteveEJ]

I have not used any loctite and not a problem after 98 hr run time using the Rock.

Wilbur

Wilbur,
you have 98 hours on the Rock already? WOW.. You must be a carve-a-holoc! :)

Steve

[Wilbur]

I guess you are right. My first machine was braking down for one reason or another that in 55 hr of run time I only had about 20 of good carving. and for several months I was working on it.
With the exception of having to replace the QC, my new machine is running very good with no problems. I am doing 6 to 10 hr. carvings every day.
I am running out of time fast with warranty through LHR but that is where the 5 yr comes into play with Sears.
Just sold my first two carvings.

Here are some of the carvings I have done in the 111.5 hr run time. If it runs, I run it

http://www.angelfire.com/sc/candlemaker/WoodCarver.html

Wilbur

[SteveEJ]

Nice work Wilbur.. How's you Rock working out and holding up?

Steve

[Rocky]

Thanks for the feed back folks. The "Rock" is installed and I'm looking forward to making my next carve with it.

[SteveEJ]

I think you will like it!

[Wilbur]

I have nothing but good to say about the Rock. There is less nose for sure and it runs just fine. All but 10 hr of the 111 hr is with the Rock. I have the 1/2" on order. It's just as easy to change bits as it was with the QC, over all faster but I'm not looking at that kind of speed. LOL.
Now, things will be different when I change from 1/4" to 1/2". I will have to remove the bit holder.
I have no problem with the Rock. I just wish that the QC had worked out. I liked it as well but just to many brake downs for me.

Wilbur

[hess]

Wibur
Man you have made some nice stuff.

Cedar is boss I love it

Hess

[rjustice]

I have nothing but good to say about the Rock. There is less nose for sure and it runs just fine. All but 10 hr of the 111 hr is with the Rock. I have the 1/2" on order. It's just as easy to change bits as it was with the QC, over all faster but I'm not looking at that kind of speed. LOL.
Now, things will be different when I change from 1/4" to 1/2". I will have to remove the bit holder.
I have no problem with the Rock. I just wish that the QC had worked out. I liked it as well but just to many brake downs for me.

Wilbur

Hi Wilbur,
There will be sleeves available very soon, that will allow you to keep the 1/2 adapter in the machine if you use 1/2 tools a lot. You can just slide your 1/4 inch tools in with a sleeve on them and your good to go.

Ron

[TerryT]

Here are some of the carvings I have done in the 111.5 hr run time. If it runs, I run it

http://www.angelfire.com/sc/candlemaker/WoodCarver.html

Wilbur

Wow,
Nice work Wilbur. Some great looking stuff there.

[PCW]

Wilbur

That $300.00 you spent at Sears for the extended warranty is going to be the best money you ever spent. Good Job

[castingman]

Wilbur

Nice work , If the foundry keeps going the way it is i might be opening up a shop myself , ( just took over a furniture repair co. , guy owed 2 years rent,got all the tools & furniture )
Nice shrine sign , been looking for one of them , Mason one as well.

Thanks , W.B. Michael

[Rocky]

I installed it yesterday and tried a 10 minute carve today using one bit. So far, I'm a "happy camper". The noise level when carving dropped significantly, that really makes me happy. Next, I'll need to get into the multiple bit test.

[Wilbur]

I already saved 150.00 by not sending my first one back to be repaired. That would have cost me 158.00.

Wilbur

[rjustice]

Hi All,
The High Precision, balanced sleeves, designed for use with your "Rock" Chuck are now available on my website www.cw-parts.com !

[Kenm810]

Ron,

Thanks for the heads up!

I just sent my order in for one of each. :grin:

[Rocky]

Hi Rocky,
I got mine at Radio Shack (different colors and sizes for different Bits)
Our local TrueValue Hardware Store also has sizes from 5/8” to 1/8” in black
I use my heat gun to shrink it rather than an open flame (a little easier to control the shrink rate)
As for size, I just took a bit with me to see which size worked best

Multicolor Heat-Shrink Tubing (12-Pack) $3.99
Model: 278-1610
Catalog #: 278-1610



Ken,

I bought a pack of this tubing from Radio Shack. I don't have a heat gun, so I used an open flame. I can't seem to get the rings to get tight enough to not move when you push on them a little. Is there a trick? More heat?

Thanks,

[Kenm810]

Hi Rockey,

The first bits I did, I cleaned any oil off the bit with acetone,
after heating the shrink tube to fit the shaft I gave it a small dab
of epoxy to lock them in place.

Since then I've tried the 1/4" OD. nylon sleeves
also with a little dab of epoxy or super glue.

[Rocky]

Hi Rockey,

The first bits I did, I cleaned any oil off the bit with acetone,
after heating the shrink tube to fit the shaft I gave it a small dab
of epoxy to lock them in place.

Since then I've tried the 1/4" OD. nylon sleeves
also with a little dab of epoxy or super glue.

Thanks, Ken. I guess I assumed the shrinking would be tight enough to hold.

[robbrigg2]

Hi all,

I just had to write this about the rock chuck. I am a new user, so I guess I can't speak from oodles of experience, but I can say that in the 2 months I've had my CW I have gone through 2 machines, 4 bits, and 1 chuck. A couple of the bits were on me, but the chuck and first machine problems were not. Normally I would have given up but I LOOOOOOOVVVVVVVVEEEEEEEEEE this machine and all of the possibilities open through its use.

I decided to try the rock out of desperation. Though I did not use the QC for a long time, I did find it cumbersome to say the least, and very, very temperamental. I read the comments on the Rock and decided to give it a try. GOD am I glad I did. What a difference. The quality of the cut is vastly superior because there is absolutely no variance at the bit tip. It is quieter and it is much easier to load and unload as I am not fussing with the QC (Sorry CW people I love your machine but I have to call a spade a spade). The flex shaft is noticeably cooler after long carves (I did 3 today) and I don't think I will have to worry in the future.

Thanks RON!

Sincerely,

Robert Briggs
Deer Park Texas

[Router-Jim]

I finally ordered the Rock today. I'm looking forward to no more runout. 8)

[captainkidd]

I also ordered one too, I haven't done much carving in several months but I have a project I want to build that I am wanting to do some Asian style patterns and carvings onto so that has prompted me into "Upgrading" if you will my CW with the Rock Chuck.

B.Kidd

[Steven Alford]

Finally put my Rock Chuck on today. Very simple and straight forward install.
WOW!! What a difference!!
Vibration is WAY down.
Noise level is hardly noticeable. I use to have to wear ear plugs but now I don't really need them. Most of the noise now comes from the dust collector motor!!
And best of all, the quality of the carves is way better. I bet we could set our machines to "Best" instead of "Optimal" and we would still get better then what we used to get with the old QC!!

[RayTrek]

What can I say except that The “Rock” is every thing good for the machine that all of you have mentioned
Thanks for every ones input here
And Thanks Ron,
Later -Ray

[rjustice]

Thanks for the kind words guys!....

I sincerely appreciate it!


Happy Carving to all!

Ron

[locovalley]

I just received my 1/2" Rock chuck in today's mail. I'll be installing it tonight. My first impression was how well the rock is made. The machining is first rate. I'm looking forward to getting it installed and up and running. A chunk of steel this pretty just has to make my CW sing! Thanks, Ron for all you do.

JM

[liquidguitars]

Good deal, and you got the 1/2 to boot "good call" make sure to get a
1/2 to 1/4 sleeve that Ron makes if you haven't already.. I just tested the new sleeves and it's first rate.

LG

[Kenm810]

1/2" Rock Chuck and Sleeves arrived today with an extra 1/4" Adapter I wanted :grin:
I haven't had a chance to put the original 1/4" Rock Chuck I ordered on my machine yet http://forum.carvewright.com/images/icons/icon11.gif
I better get my Butt in gear and catch up with the rest of you folks!!

[lostinthefrost]

Sorry to jump into this thread.

just broke #3, #4 square tool. Used the heat rolled steel method, used heat wrench method, used acetone, used mineral spirits, even peeled back the plastic parts and watched the youtube video 10x. I am either doing way wrong or my machine is nuts. Is there anyone who would volunteer their time to put the rock on for me (or at least try) I can overnight the truck and rock to them and then stick a label in the box for shipment back to me? I would very very very much appreciate it and no cost to whomever it is. If so, please send a note to me with your address. Or you can email me lostinthefrost@gmail.com if you dont want to post it. I have had my rock for well over a month or two and very eager to get it running.

[HighTechOkie]

It sounds like you have a QC lathered in red loctite. From what I've read, red loctite has a melting point between 350-450F. If you have another square tool, try heating the QC up until it starts to glow red from the heat, then a couple hard jerks on the square tool should get it to break loose. Probably a good idea to order a new spindle bearing to have on hand.

Hate to see ya spend $30+ in shipping when all it needs is more heat.


Rob

[lostinthefrost]

Thanks to all of those who have sent me PM's, emails and are willing to help. I am going to get the new truck ordered tomorrow and go from there. If they will send it without a QC then that will solve my problem. You guys ROCK! and so hopefully will I one day....lol
Anyway thanks again. Best support ever

[Digitalwoodshop]

I have a reconditioned truck that I broke 3 square drive bits after heating it very hot.. Gave up....I think LHR's policy of RED Forever Locktite is for the birds..... Heating everything that hot has to damage the first bearing in the Truck....

I agree, ordering it without the QC is the way to go.

AL

[jab73180]

i dont think they put any locktite on mine, it almost fell off. i have the cure for that coming, THE ROCK

[rickyz]

ordered a rock for my cw after my carving bit kept slipping. even with locktite. I wound up having to cut off the plastic cover off the qc just to get the bit out. can't wait to get the rock up and running.

[jpitz31]

My Rock should be here today. Can't wait. But I am dreading trying to get the QC off based on all of the horror stories I have heard.

I am going wrap everything up in damp rags and tin foil and heat that sucker up.

I received my scanning probe last night. Have been playing with the pattern software.

Thanks

Joe

[Wilbur]

I have taken off two. The first one I destroyed the whole Z truck and had to get another.
This time I used a 1/8" bit and heated the back end of it until it was red hot then stuck it into the chuck hole. The heat was there right at the threads and it came loose with out damaging anything else.
I don't know what is the best way but heating the QC on the Z truck was bad for me. The latter worked good and did not take long.
I have over 60 hr on it with the rock and doing just fine.

Wilbur

[ChrisAlb]

When I replaced my QC, it came off without any issues. I wonder how many folks are maybe just turning it the wrong way?

It can be a little confusing when looking at it upside down. When standing at the key pad side, the QC wrench has to be pulled toward you. Not trying to be insulting here. Just a thought.

[Bill]

It would be my guess that a good percentage are doing just that.

[jpitz31]

When standing at the key pad side, the QC wrench has to be pulled toward you.

Thanks Chris, nice putting a visual perspective to the task.

Joe

[mtylerfl]

When I replaced my QC, it came off without any issues. I wonder how many folks are maybe just turning it the wrong way?



That is exactly what I was thinking! I have had 3 calls that I remember over the last two years from folks who were TIGHTENING the QC instead of loosening it. One fellow broke the square drive, another "rounded" the square hole, the other stopped and called before damaging his machine - he bought a heat gun, applied heat for a full two minutes (twice), and it came right off (I do recall he used a short length of pipe slipped over the wrench to get some leverage - he had the use of just one arm).

EDIT: I should note that in those three cases, pilot error was to blame for messing up their QC - bit adaptors were not seated properly.

[Digitalwoodshop]

YES.... Even "I" AL who remembered to watch the Rock video just before I changed my QC to ROCK.... Just to make sure I was not going the wrong way...... You too can be a Rock Fan.....

AL

[ChrisAlb]

I didn't use any heat. The biggest thing was modifying a "strong" #6 square drive bit to fit the top of the spindle. I posted pictures of this some time ago. With that bit in a ratchet and the wrench on the QC, just a firm tug in the correct direction it came right off. This was after 430 hours of use.

[rjustice]

When I replaced my QC, it came off without any issues. I wonder how many folks are maybe just turning it the wrong way?

It can be a little confusing when looking at it upside down. When standing at the key pad side, the QC wrench has to be pulled toward you. Not trying to be insulting here. Just a thought.

Chris has a very good thought here, but we need to be very cautious with this statement. Using the tools that i supplied with the kits, I instructed people to let the QC wrench rest on the shelf of the machine and lock itself in place. Then turn the square tool on the top. If you are trying to follow my instructions you will push the top wrench away from you if standing on the keypad side.

Please read that two or three times, as this has been a source of confusioin in the past.

[rjustice]

I didn't use any heat. The biggest thing was modifying a "strong" #6 square drive bit to fit the top of the spindle. I posted pictures of this some time ago. With that bit in a ratchet and the wrench on the QC, just a firm tug in the correct direction it came right off. This was after 430 hours of use.

Maybe you used it so long that it got so hot that all of the loctite melted out!... LOL ;)

Just kidding, but you sure had really good luck out of that chuck!

[ChrisAlb]

YES, if turing the top, it's COUNTER CLOCKWISE as usual to remove. Good point Ron.

[ChrisAlb]

Maybe you used it so long that it got so hot that all of the loctite melted out!... LOL ;)

Just kidding, but you sure had really good luck out of that chuck!


LOL...perhaps. But honestly it never got that hot. I don't think luck though Ron. Proper care and use is more like it. Almost 100 hours on the second now and running fine. And I'm pretty sure "I" killed the first one too....http://forum.carvewright.com/images/icons/icon11.gif...Doing that Oak mirror for Alex in an...ummm...unconventional way.

[liquidguitars]

you will push the top wrench away from you if standing on the keypad side.

What he said. Ron I just ordered # 2 from you today..


Almost 100 hours

lagger.. :) you need to do more carving..
LG

[jpitz31]

Hello All,

The Rock came today, When I got home from work I watched the video a few times and installed the Rock. I had no problem loosing the QC. Did not have to heat it at all. I have not cut anything yet. I will do that first thing tomorrow.

I made a bit depth installer so I could set the bit 1 1/2" from the collet.

I put a threaded insert into a piece of MDF, used a bit of left over threaded rod and a little rubber vacuum cap. I set the height with my calipers and then insert the bit into the sleeve.

Can't wait to try the rock out.

Joe

[Digitalwoodshop]

Is that a Roto Zip bit? Does it have a cutting tip? Or it just an optical illusion... and a 1/8 inch cutting bit?

AL

[jpitz31]

Al,

You have got a really good eye. Yes, that is a SC rotozip bit. Yes 1/8" bit and 1/8" sleeve for the Rock. I had one sitting on my desk and wanted to see how it fit into the sleeve and check the length.

Joe

[locovalley]

I got my 1/4" sleeves for the 1/2" Rock in the mail yesterday. I installed the carving bit in the chuck and did a 1 hour test carve. I can't believe how much quieter the machine is with the Rock! Vibrations are almost undetectable. THe flex shaft ran much cooler that before. All-in-all I never thought a new type of chuck would make such a difference.

Color me a Happy Camper!
Joe

[liquidguitars]

Yesterday I notice my dog "that's her in the avatar photo" was in the shop sleeping on the floor at the same time my CW was rocking.. That's a first..

LG

[rjustice]

Yesterday I notice my dog "that's her in the avatar photo" was in the shop sleeping on the floor at the same time my CW was rocking.. That's a first..

LG

This is funny to me... i have had a half dozen comments about the dog now being comfortable in the shop while the macine is running!...LOL...

Now mans best friend can hang while carving!

Thanks for the feedback guys!

Ron

[Pratyeka]

This is funny to me... i have had a half dozen comments about the dog now being comfortable in the shop while the macine is running!...LOL...

Now mans best friend can hang while carving!

Thanks for the feedback guys!

Ron

I consider this proof that the difference is not just in our head, can't have a more unbiased opinion than from a dog!:mrgreen:

[rjustice]

I have had a few questions about the new Rock Sleeves, and how to orient them correctly. I have also been asked about how to orient the flats on tools to make sure they are not in a bad place in reference to the clamp in the Rock Chuck.

The first picture shows pinching the sleeve to get it to ease into the bore more easily.
The second picture shows orienting the slit to the center of the hex in the clamp bolt (where you insert the T-handle wrench)
The third picture shows the flat facing the center of the hex in the clamp bolt.

By doing this you will insure that you are clamping on a smooth surface and getting the best holding power, and least amount of runout.

Hope this helps, please ask if you have any questions!

Happy Carving,

Ron

[liquidguitars]

Hi Ron,

45 off the screw flats?

LG

[rjustice]

Hi Ron,

45 off the screw flats?

LG

Brandon, if you meant 45 off the wrench flats yes thats close enough...

[liquidguitars]

wrench flats

yes.. is 90 better?

LG

[Pratyeka]

If I understand correctly, tightening the sleeve at 90 degree would produce max force but also max runout. At 0 degree you would have 0 force and min runout. At 45 degree, you have the best compromise. If we were using a collet system, it would not matter because collets apply force evenly around the axis. But because of the lock nut applying force from one side toward the center, the sleeve is pushed slightly off center. In my mod Eliminator, I get .002" off center, due to the greater clearance. I believe that the Rock has tighter clearance, giving a smaller runout.

p.s.: I'm using the contact point of the lock nut inside the Rock as reference point (0 degree).

[rjustice]

yes.. is 90 better?

LG

No... 90 will put you into the edge of a flat

If you have the flat (or slit in the sleeves) face the hex in the clamp screw that is pretty much perfect. (and easy to remember)... ;) Just like what you see in the pictures above in post 200.

Happy Carving,

Ron

[rjustice]

If I understand correctly, tightening the sleeve at 90 degree would produce max force but also max runout. At 0 degree you would have 0 force and min runout. At 45 degree, you have the best compromise. If we were using a collet system, it would not matter because collets apply force evenly around the axis. But because of the lock nut applying force from one side toward the center, the sleeve is pushed slightly off center. In my mod Eliminator, I get .002" off center, due to the greater clearance. I believe that the Rock has tighter clearance, giving a smaller runout.

Pratyeka,
Your theory is dead on correct. There is one thing i would like to point out though, when the slit in the Rock sleeve is pointed at the hex in the screw it does put the clamp point at almost exactly 90 degrees, giving you the max clamping effect. With the clearances in the Rock System held to a minimum, I was able to go for maximum clamp without having to worry about runout and balance becomming an issue.
Thanks for the detailed explanation.

Ron

[Digitalwoodshop]

Well I found a DOWNER to installing the rock.... The Quiet CW has made my Buddy, Ricky the Rattle Snake, decide to come closer to my shop...

The Baby Rabbits have even been seen more in the daylight, with 4 generations and about 17 rabbits in the area of the shop.

I believe Ricky was looking for a Rabbit Lunch....

I will need to make more noise in the shop to ward away the Snakes....

Bummer....

AL stepping carefully....:rolleyes:


I just noticed..... OVER 9000 VIEWS this thread.... That is a PAT ON THE BACK RON !!!!!!! Good Job....

Happy 4th Everyone!!!!!

[rjustice]

Well I found a DOWNER to installing the rock.... The Quiet CW has made my Buddy, Ricky the Rattle Snake, decide to come closer to my shop...

The Baby Rabbits have even been seen more in the daylight, with 4 generations and about 17 rabbits in the area of the shop.

I believe Ricky was looking for a Rabbit Lunch....

I will need to make more noise in the shop to ward away the Snakes....

Bummer....

AL stepping carefully....:rolleyes:


You could get a pet mongoose, I hear the new chuck is really easy on thier ears as well.... LOL

Be careful out there!

Happy Carving,

Ron

[Digitalwoodshop]

I have a Stuffed Mongoose and Stuffed Cobra locked in battle packed away in my bedroom closet.... Bought it in Thailand.... Declared it on my Customs paperwork and was not told NO you can't bring it into the States....... This was in 78 when I was young and foolish....

Sailors.... they will buy anything.....

AL:roll:

[badger]

Well I found a DOWNER to installing the rock.... The Quiet CW has made my Buddy, Ricky the Rattle Snake, decide to come closer to my shop...



Hey see if you can get Ricky to hold still long enough to get a scan of him so you can add him as an stl file.

[Digitalwoodshop]

What would work faster would be to use Guy's Laser Scanner and a few quick passes with the hand held scanner and it would be displayed on the screen.... That would work....

AL

[liquidguitars]

It could be better to hang one of your wood eagle signs outside the shop to scare the rabbits closer to that big old snake ;)

LG

[BBrooks]

RJ,
just had to say I got the .5" rock adapter and the .125" & .25" adapters last week and they have performed fantastically. Your .125 cutting bits are also top notch. "like a rock" :)
Cheers,

[rjustice]

RJ,
just had to say I got the .5" rock adapter and the .125" & .25" adapters last week and they have performed fantastically. Your .125 cutting bits are also top notch. "like a rock" :)
Cheers,

Thanks Bill... Glad everything is working well for you!

Happy Carving,

Ron

[Digitalwoodshop]

It could be better to hang one of your wood eagle signs outside the shop to scare the rabbits closer to that big old snake ;)

LG

I found my bird sounds CD and played a Cardinal and the Male Cardinal was running all over my deck looking for the other male... So funny.....

Then a Chipmunk was on the deck table eating corn and I played the Eagle and he ran and was gone for an hour.....

AL

[coyoteugly543]

is this what i need Rock Kit #1 and 1/16 Tapered Carving Bit

[rjustice]

is this what i need Rock Kit #1 and 1/16 Tapered Carving Bit

Hi Rick,
I sent you an email with some more information.

Thanks for your interest!

Ron

[coyoteugly543]

will this work for now Rock Kit #1 1/2 to 1/4 "Rock" Sleeve
1/16 Tapered Carving Bit

[rjustice]

will this work for now Rock Kit #1 1/2 to 1/4 "Rock" Sleeve
1/16 Tapered Carving Bit

Yes,
This will allow you to use all bits purchased from CarveWright. If you wish to try my 1/8" cutout bits in the future you will need to purchase a 1/2 to 1/8 Rock sleeve at that time.

Thanks for your interest!

Ron

[coyoteugly543]

ok thank you i just order Rock Kit #1 1/2 to 1/4 "Rock" Sleeve

> 1/16 Tapered Carving Bit

[rjustice]

Thanks Rick!

Happy Carving,

Ron

[rickyz]

jus did a test carve with the rock chuck. IT ROCKS!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! !!!!
everyone needs to get one! I figured why replace my qc with another qc that will eventually go bad and has been a pain in the you know what. I had a friend of mine compare the old qc with the new rock chuck and he was definitely impressed. he used to work on industrial assembly line type machines and thinks this is a great product. another happy customer.

[jpeter14]

I got the Rock from Ron, installed it today and did about a 2 hour carve, it worked very well, cable did heat over 102 degrees in one little spot. Had to change bits 3 time on my project, it was a snap. I used heat shrink on the bit shanks. Thanks Ron.

[jab73180]

just got my rock in the mail, so excited. just going over the install video and make sure my precision grinding on some junk wrenches i had to save money. thanx ron

i bought kit #3 because i have a square tool and i had 2 junk 7/8 wrenches that i ground thin to fit the flats on the chuck

[unitedcases]

I just realized today that by installing the rock I saved so much time on my daily cleaning. No more picking dust out of the qc, no more trying to get the rust out. No more up and down and up and down, and so on. I have had so much better luck with this and I am actually going to try some more intricate carves now just because I am more confident with the machine. Your the best Ron! How about that design for the dust collection?

[eromran]

I'm not sure i can say any thing else about this chuck that has not already been said but i did want to publicly thank Ron for the great work on this chuck. It re invigorates you knowing your machine is running smoother. I know for my self lately i hold my breath every time i do a carve cause i am getting so many hours on it. Not saying something is not going to go wrong tomorrow but after hearing it run with the rock on it you can barely hear it strain even at full depth. Smooth -- it keeps a more constant speed. I am now going to have to buy a baby monitor because i can keep going back and forth to see if its done (Great problem to have though) Below is first carve with the Rock unfinished.

[rjustice]

I'm not sure i can say any thing else about this chuck that has not already been said but i did want to publicly thank Ron for the great work on this chuck. It re invigorates you knowing your machine is running smoother. I know for my self lately i hold my breath every time i do a carve cause i am getting so many hours on it. Not saying something is not going to go wrong tomorrow but after hearing it run with the rock on it you can barely hear it strain even at full depth. Smooth -- it keeps a more constant speed. I am now going to have to buy a baby monitor because i can keep going back and forth to see if its done (Great problem to have though) Below is first carve with the Rock unfinished.

Ed,
Glad you are enjoying the benefits of the new Rock chuck! Thank you for the feedback as well.

Your angel carving looks fantastic! very nice job....

Happy, trouble free carving!

Ron

[Rocky]

I'm not sure i can say any thing else about this chuck that has not already been said but i did want to publicly thank Ron for the great work on this chuck. It re invigorates you knowing your machine is running smoother. I know for my self lately i hold my breath every time i do a carve cause i am getting so many hours on it. Not saying something is not going to go wrong tomorrow but after hearing it run with the rock on it you can barely hear it strain even at full depth. Smooth -- it keeps a more constant speed. I am now going to have to buy a baby monitor because i can keep going back and forth to see if its done (Great problem to have though) Below is first carve with the Rock unfinished.


I really like the angel carving. Where did you get the pattern?

[mkroemer]

I have just purchased the new Rock Chuck and it is GREAT. What a difference in the quality of the carvings. Every machine should have one.
Ron makes a very high quality piece.
I was the Quality Manager in a presision sheet metal/machine shop for over 17 years and I know great quality when I see it.
Ron - keep up the great work.

[rjustice]

Fellow Carvers,

I have had a few questions that i want to share with everyone... It was noted that in my video for the install of the Rock chuck that i didnt show the use of heat... The purpose of the video was mainly to show how to put the Rock Chuck on the machine properly, not necessarily how to remove the QC... so please read the link below in my signature to help prevent any frustration with getting the QC off... Some can be a real bear... so it is better to go through the process, rather than break a tool right away and have to wait for another one to arrive...

Here is a liink (http://cncartguild.forumotion.net/the-rock-chuck-f32/rock-chuck-and-original-qc-removal-t40.htm) to the most recent story of the removal of a stubborn QC...

A couple more tidbits of information. I experinented with some clear vinyl tubing that i picked up at the hardware, and if you get 6" lengths of each of the following it works well for stops...

3/8- for your 1/2" shank tools
3/16 - for your 1/4" shank tools
1/16 - for your 1/8" shank tools

Just cut off a sliver about 1/8-3/16 wide, and this allows them to stretch enough to get them on the shank. The narrower that you slice them the easier to get on, but the easier the move too... In my experience, you can get them on and not have to worry about glue to hold them.. they grip really tight!.... I havent got the mold done for my stops yet, so in the meantime this works well.

A couple more tips for new users...

I have stated this a few times but one more doesnt hurt... Please take a minute and be sure to remove any loctite off the shanks of your tools before placing them in the Rock Chuck... The bore is so precise, that it can make the tools feel tight, and cause them to bind up if they have any residue left on them. You can use some fine sandpaper... it will easily take the loctite off, but wont touch the carbide as it is extremely hard...

Also, Please face one of the flats on your tools towards the hex in the clamp screw (this is where you insert the "T" handle to tighten and loosen up the bits)... what this will do is ensure that you are clamping on the smooth shank, and NOT in a flat. If you happen to clamp in a flat, it can kick up a burr on the clamp nut and can make the nut not want to release correctly... Do the same thing on the Rock Sleeves... Point the slit in the sleeve towards the hex in the clamp screw... This will keep the clamp out of the slit, and ensure that you are transferring max holding pressure to your tool bit...

Thanks again to everyone that is using the Rock system!

Happy Carving,

Ron

[badger]

Fellow Carvers,

If you happen to clamp in a flat, it can kick up a burr on the clamp nut and can make the nut not want to release correctly... Do the same thing on the Rock Sleeves...
Thanks again to everyone that is using the Rock system!

Happy Carving,

Ron

I can atest to this happening. However once corrected it continued to work flawlessly. Just wish I could have stated the same on the other item I used to use before the rock.


Thanks again RJ for helping me the other day. Corrected the problem and continued to finish the carve without hassle or problems.

[mkroemer]

hey all, i am pondering getting a rock chuck for my cw seems how i have the y truck off my machine replacing the bearings. now would be the best time to do it, but dont know how well the rock works, or even if there are any left. anybody out there have some time with it or is it to new.

-Jason

The rock works great! Very high quality piece...well worth the money.

[billybehr]

I can't wait to get my Rock Chuck... I am so tired of fighting with this QC.
I'll post my experience with it as soon as I get it.

[Fireman Phil]

Just ordered a 1/4" Rock Chuck. I have been out of the carving hobby for some time now due to some fustration with the bits and the old QC. I decided to take a look at the forum today to see what was happening and seen this post. Ron has rejuvenated my desire to get out there and make some sawdust!! (the by-product not the project itself) :-)