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mtylerfl
04-29-2009, 09:55 PM
Hello,

Here is a project I finished a couple days ago. The coin dimensions are 10" diameter by 3" thick - the base itself is 1½" tall.

I gave mine away to a friend who has the uncanny knack for spotting pennys on the ground everywhere he goes! Thought he could use an appropriate receptacle for all those pennys. (He finds other coins too, but pennys are ones that most folks just walk by, so there's more of 'em left on the ground.) I told him that he currently owns the only wooden bank like this in the world right now - until other folks start making them too!

Some creative ways it could be used are in a children's church or Bible school for the kids offerings, or at a business or club for fundraising, donations, "fines" (think Rotary Club or Exchange Club), a "treasury" for collecting dues at Boy and Girl Scouts, woodworking clubs, etc. Commemorate a baby's birth, give as a birthday gift, wedding, anniversary (the date and wording is editable). You get the idea.

(The Lincoln Cent Bank is not a Project of the Month - CarveWright has made it available as an individual project at the CarveWright Project Store).

geekviking
04-29-2009, 10:29 PM
Very cool...
Great job! :cool:

mtylerfl
04-29-2009, 10:32 PM
Very cool...
Great job! :cool:


Thank you - I enjoyed making it!

fwharris
04-29-2009, 10:53 PM
Michael,

Outstanding!

I had to look at the images multiple times to make sure that was not a real penny.. Great job on the Lincoln pattern!

Add to your list of who might buy, ANY LINCOLN CENT COIN COLLECTOR! With this being the anniversary of the Lincoln cent the penny guys are going crazy! Rolls of the first edition of the new cent, if you can find them, are/were going for $7.00 or more.

HMMM, Michael, I do recall you asking/posting about the US Mint copy/print rights on coins a while back. I knew you were up to something..

I took a peak to and did see that most of the rights for coins are free for use by others, except for making them a piece for tender. There are a few that you can not. If I recall right, the Latest Jefferson nickles were one of them along with one of the Lady Dollars (S. B. A. & Sac.).

jpaluck
04-30-2009, 01:00 AM
Michael,

Great job on sculpting the head. I know thats not an easy one to do..how long did it take you?

John

mtylerfl
04-30-2009, 07:37 AM
You know, I had no idea this was the anniversary of the Lincoln Cent! I just lucked out on the timing I guess!

I read and re-read the copyrights at the mint website and finally determined I was in the clear, so was able to proceed. You're right that there are quite a few coins that cannot be reproduced without express permission (many of the commemorative and state coins are among those).

It took me, I believe, about 6 hours to model the low-relief of Lincoln (I'm slow). Tried to "think like" a coin designer, knowing I had a very small z-space to work within for it to retain the "coin-look". I started one afternoon and worked on it for a few hours, then "slept on it". Next morning, I resumed intermittently between phone calls and so on, and finished it up by early afternoon that day. I knew that it had to be a faithful reproduction or it just wouldn't fly.

I plan to do more portrait-type models (Mona Lisa, I hope at some point??). And I want to do a lot more with currency modeling - many of the designs are just gorgeous.

fwharris
04-30-2009, 10:53 AM
Michael,

Great timing even if you did not plan on it. You stated that you do have plans on more coin modeling, does this include doing the reverse of the coins also? Knowing a lot of coin collectors and using your free coin patterns they really enjoy seeing both sides of the carved coins.

brdad
04-30-2009, 11:24 AM
Very nice. I may have to do this one too.

I imagine paper money is protected? I think a $100 bill would be real cool.

mtylerfl
04-30-2009, 11:35 AM
Michael,

Great timing even if you did not plan on it. You stated that you do have plans on more coin modeling, does this include doing the reverse of the coins also? Knowing a lot of coin collectors and using your free coin patterns they really enjoy seeing both sides of the carved coins.

Probably will do some two-sided coins, but having a little trouble figuring out a "practical use" for such an item. Maybe there isn't one - just being a decorative piece might be enough. I've thought about making coin coat racks for hanging on a wall by the door, making lamps with a coin-theme design, round boxes with a coin design carved on top (come to think of it - the Lincoln Bank could be modified into a hinged-lid box by a person skilled with Designer), making a checker set and board with coin carvings (in Corian, perhaps and one of rjustice's specialty "tiny" bits) and other ideas, some of which would not use a double-sided coin (like wall art).

mtylerfl
04-30-2009, 11:36 AM
Very nice. I may have to do this one too.

I imagine paper money is protected? I think a $100 bill would be real cool.

A hundred dollar bill was my first thought, as well. Perhaps better done as a lithophane... or do a one dollar bill as a litho to hang in an office or business as "my first dollar".

fwharris
04-30-2009, 11:54 AM
Michael,

Yes those are a few good ideas for the coins. I have made and sold several clocks with just the obverse side of the coin patterns. I believe your coin bank would be even more enhanced if it had the reverse side of the Lincoln cent or any of the other coins as well. Of course that is just my opinion from a coin collectors point of view.

Lots of possibilities out there for our creative minds to work on. Even the proverbial wooden nickel!!!

b.sumner47
04-30-2009, 12:26 PM
Hi Michael, I've got a question about the widths of boards that we get from HD and Lowes,the 8in.board are not the 7.250 as before, they now measure at 07.190 I could use a sled or hope I could reset board width to 0.710,no scaling.would this be OK ? Thank Capt Barry

mtylerfl
04-30-2009, 12:50 PM
Hi Michael, I've got a question about the widths of boards that we get from HD and Lowes,the 8in.board are not the 7.250 as before, they now measure at 07.190 I could use a sled or hope I could reset board width to 0.710,no scaling.would this be OK ? Thank Capt Barry

Hello,

You'll need to reset (reduce) the board width in the mpc's or use a wider sled to place the board, as you mentioned. If you choose to reduce the mpc board width to match your stock, watch closely that elements on the board don't "shift" adversely. If they do, then "UNDO" your changes and open the carving list and check every item for any centering applied. When/if you find any centering assignment, remove the centering (and any other positioning attachment that might be present). Then try resetting the board width for the mpc again and it should now work alright.

My last batch of 1x12 wood from Lowes was also not as wide as it was just a month ago. Typically, it was always just over 11.25" in width (something like 11.3"). At that width, if an mpc's board width was set at 11.25", all was well, and no scaling prompt would occur. Now however, with the board widths "shrinking" apparently at the big box stores (shame on them!), more attention has to be paid before uploading an mpc to the memory card. Measure your actual board width and set the mpc to either that width or a little less, to avoid getting the scaling prompt. Scaling can really mess with a project and you want to avoid that at all cost.

The last two projects I designed, I set the 1x12 board width in the mpc at 11.2" just to be on the safe side (actually, the board width comes out at 11.203 for some reason, even though I type 11.2, Designer "makes it" 11.203 - odd). The instructions still call for a board width of 11.25", but by me setting the board width a little less than that, I hope to help folks avoid scaling issues on their end when they run a project, in case the stock they are using is not the normal 11.25" which has been the standard for a long, long time for * x 12 stock.

Keep in mind that if you ever see a scaling prompt, that is a warning that something is wrong. Either the board is too big or too small. Too big is ok, since you will have an option to "Keep Original Size" and the project will run as expected. Too small, means you'll have to change to another board that's big enough, or, possibly go back to Designer and reduce the board width to match your actual stock, or use a sled that will force the machine "see" a wider board.

I may "err" on even smaller board width settings in my projects just to stave off any future issues if the boards we buy continue to shrink further!

AskBud
04-30-2009, 12:50 PM
Hi Michael, I've got a question about the widths of boards that we get from HD and Lowes,the 8in.board are not the 7.250 as before, they now measure at 07.190 I could use a sled or hope I could reset board width to 0.710,no scaling.would this be OK ? Thank Capt Barry

As long as you are not making and "Edge" cuts, I would opt for a sled.
I often use a large sled and just "Center" the project board.
AskBud

mtylerfl
04-30-2009, 01:01 PM
As long as you are not making and "Edge" cuts, I would opt for a sled.
I often use a large sled and just "Center" the project board.
AskBud


That'll work - and save some wood to boot.

chebytrk
04-30-2009, 01:13 PM
As long as you are not making and "Edge" cuts, I would opt for a sled.
I often use a large sled and just "Center" the project board.
AskBud

So what would you suggest is a "standard" size sled? I haven't made one yet, but going to this weekend. I don't make too much stuff yet as I'm still learning (ie.. stained glass plaques, small signs, etc). Just wondering what size I should make first. I've got quite a bit of scraps now with having to add 7" to my projects. I heard mention to add just 4" to one end and run the project that way (I guess that means "not centered" on project)? Just trying to be a little more efficient with my boards.

AskBud
04-30-2009, 02:10 PM
So what would you suggest is a "standard" size sled? I haven't made one yet, but going to this weekend. I don't make too much stuff yet as I'm still learning (ie.. stained glass plaques, small signs, etc). Just wondering what size I should make first. I've got quite a bit of scraps now with having to add 7" to my projects. I heard mention to add just 4" to one end and run the project that way (I guess that means "not centered" on project)? Just trying to be a little more efficient with my boards.
My choice, after some testing & thinking is to have several sleds.

My 2 sided carvings using 1.5" stock is a sled with a "lip" on the bottom to suspend the stock. This sled can be widened to whatever I need, however, it is set for a 7" wide/high board (unless I change out my end pieces).
See my AVI on "2 sided Cow"
I have, also, made a set of interlocking risers .75" thick so I can use the same sled for standard .75" stock (.75+.75=1.5").

I also have used some very good "Hardboard" 48" long and 14" wide/high.
I attach 1" wide rails to one side/surface of this sled using .75" stock and 3.5", or larger, end pieces.
I use scrap wood to lock/secure the project board to the center of the sled.
Next:
I use the back side of this sled for some special sign stock .5" thick. I have milled out a .5" area for this stock to sit in. I could, also add rails of any thickness to this side of the sled should I have a project that requires a different thickness board.


I will see about bringing my camera to this location and taking some photo's.
AskBud

Hexe SA
04-30-2009, 02:56 PM
Hi Michael, I've got a question about the widths of boards that we get from HD and Lowes,the 8in.board are not the 7.250 as before, they now measure at 07.190 I could use a sled or hope I could reset board width to 0.710,no scaling.would this be OK ? Thank Capt Barry

a piece of masking tape on the opposite board side from the brass roller on top and let it stick over by about 1/4 inch. This will only work if you don't do edge carving. When the CW measures the board width it comes out fine. No new board, sled or scale to size. Been doing this for a few projects but haven't tried it on anything over 1/8 inch undersized. Now that I keep an inventory by actual board sizes LxWxT I change the board width in Designer to 5, 7, 11 inches no decimals before loading it on the card.
Eva

DocWheeler
04-30-2009, 03:31 PM
Barry,

I can't believe that only ChrisAlb and I are the only ones that regularly use "Rails" only to carve. This was a work-around for cutouts on older software, but it still works great and solves several problems including the one asked here.

There is no need for a carrier board unless you want one. Just make the rails 7" longer than the design in Designer and tell the machine to center the carve. Also, no need for wood fillers on the ends, you just need something for the sensor to see. Each of the examples below have tape across the ends.

The horse was 1" thick with 1" X 1" rails and the other had 3/4" rails. I had stock to screw the rails on the horse one, but just attached the rails with tape on the other one, both methods work well.

mtylerfl
04-30-2009, 04:22 PM
a piece of masking tape on the opposite board side from the brass roller on top and let it stick over by about 1/4 inch. This will only work if you don't do edge carving. When the CW measures the board width it comes out fine. No new board, sled or scale to size. Been doing this for a few projects but haven't tried it on anything over 1/8 inch undersized. Now that I keep an inventory by actual board sizes LxWxT I change the board width in Designer to 5, 7, 11 inches no decimals before loading it on the card.
Eva

Eva - Good tip - I'll have to try that myself!

Ken - Good tip/reminder about rails also!

fwharris
04-30-2009, 04:42 PM
Ken,

I also use the rails for a lot of my carvings. I have found that it takes care of the issue that Capt. Barry brought up.

Eva,

yes the added tape to the sides to fool the CW works great. I have needed it several times. Also setting the board width in designer to the even number works great.

Bud,

For sure take those picutres!!

liquidguitars
04-30-2009, 05:14 PM
Very nice! I love the details you get with your designs.

LG

Rocky
05-01-2009, 08:48 AM
Barry,

I can't believe that only ChrisAlb and I are the only ones that regularly use "Rails" only to carve. This was a work-around for cutouts on older software, but it still works great and solves several problems including the one asked here.

There is no need for a carrier board unless you want one. Just make the rails 7" longer than the design in Designer and tell the machine to center the carve. Also, no need for wood fillers on the ends, you just need something for the sensor to see. Each of the examples below have tape across the ends.

The horse was 1" thick with 1" X 1" rails and the other had 3/4" rails. I had stock to screw the rails on the horse one, but just attached the rails with tape on the other one, both methods work well.

Ken,

I remember seeing the "rail approach" last year when I first got my CW; then, I forgot about it. For some projects, I've been using a sled and have never used a rail.

I have one question. At the start, do you need to place the project in a certain location on the belts for the CW to properly recognize it?

Also, as I understand it, you only use masking tape at the ends.

Thanks,

DocWheeler
05-01-2009, 08:55 AM
Rocky,

With rails fastened to the sides of the "board" (and something for the sensor to read on the ends), just treat it the same as you would a board with those same outside dimensions. As far as the machine is concerned it is only one solid piece of wood. Just make sure that you tell it to Center on the board and that your design in Designer is not bigger than the actual board that you fasten between the rails.

Michael,

I too often jump to the end of a thread instead of the start if the topic does not grab my interest - sorry! Only after posting twice to this thread did I go to the "top" and see your beautiful creation. I really like it, the things that you design/create are top-notch.

Darthmaul1964
05-01-2009, 09:30 AM
A hundred dollar bill was my first thought, as well. Perhaps better done as a lithophane... or do a one dollar bill as a litho to hang in an office or business as "my first dollar".

Michael,
You might want to look into some of the old large bills artwork. If you think our current small notes have nice art work, you should see some of the old large notes that were made. I used to collect coins and paper and some of my favorite pieces were the large notes.

STEAM
05-01-2009, 10:52 AM
Michael
Do you ever run out of good ideas? I am always impressed with your work!
As usual GREAT PROJECT!! :)

HelpBot3000
05-01-2009, 11:16 AM
Michael, I'm beginning to sound like a broken record, I know. But, you knocked it out of the park again, my friend. That's an amazing looking project and a very creative twist on the coin bank. I never get tired of seeing the creativity that comes from this forum.

hess
05-01-2009, 09:04 PM
Well worth it keep it up and thank you

Hess

RayTrek
05-03-2009, 09:02 AM
Michael
That is one outstanding project I admire your detail and creativity thanks again for all the great projects and help you present.
Ray

mtylerfl
05-03-2009, 07:30 PM
Thank you, everyone! Hope you enjoy making one for yourself!

LittleRedWoodshop
05-04-2009, 01:22 PM
Would the tape on the edge process that Eva is using ever cause an issue when the machine tests locations before it carves. This is a great idea, I just want to make sure that it won't cause issues.

fwharris
05-04-2009, 03:26 PM
Would the tape on the edge process that Eva is using ever cause an issue when the machine tests locations before it carves. This is a great idea, I just want to make sure that it won't cause issues.


Jason,

I have seen no problem with the tape. I think it is soft enough that when the bit touches it actually goes to the wood surface.

hobbycentral
05-22-2009, 03:13 PM
i've been using my machine to cut out balsa control line models. After seeing the awesome pictures, I bought this project as my first real 3-D project. The photos don't do it justice. My two daughters and my wife gave me the "here's Bill with another gadget" look LOL. But, then I cut out my first penny bank with my youngest daughters birth year (1989) on it and now they are all amazed. Of course I didn't align the rings perfectly and used Gorilla glue and had a little leakage. I've been hand sanding the sides for days and my daughter keeps calling me, asking when she can pick up her bank. After I get the two daughters taken care of, I plan to display one in one of my stores in the mall. Mike you created a really nice project.

Thanks
Bill
Hobby Central

mtylerfl
05-22-2009, 07:51 PM
Hello Bill,

Thank you! Very nice to hear about your bank project and how much you and your daughter enjoyed it! Sorry 'bout the sanding part!

A few projects ago, I decided to purchase a spindle sander to make the task of sanding glued-up parts go faster (made that decision after hand-sanding three of the Holiday Sleighs!). Boy - does it make life easier! I use it extremely frequently for all kinds of other projects in addition to my own CarveWright projects.

I looked into all kinds of spindle sanders, read reviews, got recommendations, etc. After it was all said and done, I ended up getting a factory-refurbished RIGID Model EB4424 Oscillating Edge/Belt Spindle sander combo from Home Depot online. Reviews were nearly all 5-star and the regular price for new is only $199.00 (the refurbished was $149.00 with factory warranty). I couldn't be more pleased! Seems really rugged and accurate - plus, it saves a boatload of time!

Here's a review of the unit: http://www.newwoodworker.com/reviews/rgideb4424rvu.html

hobbycentral
05-22-2009, 08:30 PM
Thanks, I'll definitely take a look at getting one. I almost bought one from
Ryobi years ago for smoothing the edges of leather. I've got to get a dust collector first. I decided I didn't need one as I was just cutting balsa - big mistake LOL. I've just spent the last two hours vacuuming dust off of everything. Hmm dust collector, spindle sander, downdraft table - this reconditioned machine is getting expensive LOL. A side note for other readers - I took a tape measure to both HD and Lowes when I bought my boards (Select Pine). As stated in other posts HD's planks were narrower than typical boards. Lowes boards were spot on.

Bill
Hobby Central

hess
05-22-2009, 08:49 PM
Rigid has another + if you send in your PW you get a lifetime warrenty. 3 year if you dont
Hess

Kenm810
05-22-2009, 09:07 PM
I've been using a Oscillating Spindle Sander for the last 3 or 4 years,
I plan to let my Grandson use it on his pine wood Derby cars later this year.
They work great, save time, and are a real asset to a wood Shop.

hobbycentral
05-23-2009, 05:26 PM
Hopefully you are going to let him use it and not do it for him - just kiddin LOL. I'm refering to the Subaru TV ad. In my Hobby stores I see lot's of Moms, Dads and Grand Dads buying our Pinewood Derby Products. The Moms seem to share the experience with the kids, when it's dad and son - the Dads in charge and the kids follow along. Granddads usually come in on their own and have a glow in their eye along with a devious grin. I did buy my Compucarve with the intent to carve some unique blanks for sale in the store.

Bill
Hobby Central

Kenm810
05-23-2009, 06:28 PM
Hi Bill,

My Grandson has been around woodworking tools for awhile now,
and can really do a nice job on his cars himself.
Around here the PW Derby have a special division
for Moms, Dads, And Granddads to race their own cars.
It's all great fun and helps keeps the older folks
from trying to take over the kids cars and races.
More fun for everyone that way. :grin:

ezambob
06-02-2009, 10:33 AM
Hi Michael,

I'm a nubee and trying to wrap my hands around all things carvewright. I'm a complete novice on the different software / modeling options, but pretty computer savy, and was hoping that you could give me a quick push in the right direction. I'm interested in creating 3D models like your lincoln bank - how did you do it (what software did you use? Did you start with an image or did you scan a 3d object?)

Can you walk me through the steps of creating something like your Lincoln Bank? Where do you start... with what software, etc...

Thanks a bunch!

Bob

atauer
06-02-2009, 11:09 AM
Bob,

I believe that since Michael's projects get used as the month projects, that he creates them using the software that comes with the Carvewright woodworking machine.

Using other software would actually force others to buy the same software package as well, and after seeing the prices on some of the CAD software packages, I would be able to buy a couple Carvewright machines with the price that some are asking.

mtylerfl
06-02-2009, 11:39 AM
Hi Michael,

I'm a nubee and trying to wrap my hands around all things carvewright. I'm a complete novice on the different software / modeling options, but pretty computer savy, and was hoping that you could give me a quick push in the right direction. I'm interested in creating 3D models like your lincoln bank - how did you do it (what software did you use? Did you start with an image or did you scan a 3d object?)

Can you walk me through the steps of creating something like your Lincoln Bank? Where do you start... with what software, etc...

Thanks a bunch!

Bob

Hello Bob,

I used the ArtCAM software to create the Lincoln relief. I visited the US Mint website and found a good quality close-up photo and used that as a reference.

I have two monitors...on one, I had the photo displayed (in PhotoShop) and the other I had the ArtCAM software running. That way, I could easily refer to the original photo as I worked. In addition, I also imported the photo as an underlayment in ArtCAM as a guide to create the main outline vectors and for a guide when using the sculpting tools as I tweaked the relief.

An alternative to ArtCAM is the Aspire software (cost is about one fifth the price of ArtCAM). I could have used the Aspire software and achieved exactly the same result, no problem.

Both ArtCAM and Aspire are specifically designed from the ground up for creating high-quality reliefs for CNC machining. I highly recommend either one.

After I created the Lincoln relief and converted it to a ptn (CarveWright pattern format), I did the rest of the layout entirely within the CarveWright Designer software.

gumbo
09-10-2009, 12:27 PM
I would like to know what the wood that you used was and how you finished it? The coloring is perfect for a penny.

lesuer27
09-16-2009, 12:48 AM
how did you bend the wood around the sides?

cnsranch
09-16-2009, 10:07 AM
how did you bend the wood around the sides?

The carvewright can bend wood like that!!