help needed to finish wood

[bdehoyos]

Hi,

I'm doing a multi piece carve basically the cave has 6 parts to form the end result,

Each part is a 12" by 12" carve, at the end the intention id to form a mosaic type finish product.

I was able to create the projects and the borders do match exactly as expected I have carve the first 2 test pieces pot of oak , I place them next to each other and they align perfectly.

I stained the first and let it dry, for some reason (here I'm admitting I'm no expert just a weekend amateur) the stained piece cupped a little not a lot, just enough so it does not rest flat on its back.

So here is were I need your advice on how to prevent the wood from twisting or cooping,

What sating techniques can I use? Or where do I find goo literature about it?

Thanks

[cnsranch]

Wood is always going to move, there's really nothing you can do about it.

That said, inlays, or veneers are very thin strips of wood that are glued to a backer board of some kind. They're so thin, even though they do move, they're glued in place, and the movement doesn't show - almost like the movement is completely stopped.

If you look at an intarsia project, the edges of each piece of wood are curved, tapered, etc. That really allows wood movement without the movement showing.

Finally, when you carve a piece of wood in the CW, the result is a piece with many different lengths of fibers - the grain of the wood. The longer grains will move more than the shorter, cut grains, etc. So, you can take two 12x12 pieces of wood, carve one, leave the other, and one will move more than the other.

You may be best served to take all your pieces and put them together with a frame around them without gluing them together - that way, they can move without messing up the project. If you glue them all together, given that they are all 12x12 pieces, you do run the risk of the wood splitting as it gains/loses moisture (and, it will likely split/move in places other than the glue joints).

Frankly, I'd be tempted to glue them all up, and take my chances (unless someone's paying you a small fortune for the work).

One other thought - you could, if you have a planer/wide drum sander, reduce the thicknesses of all the pieces to less than 1/16" (after carving them) and glue them all onto a plywood backer board.

[kenerv1]

How dry is your stock to start with, it is not unusual for wood to move after it is milled, especially if not well cured. The best defense against warping and splitting wood is starting with well cured stock at a moisture content consistent with the environment in which it will spend its life.

Anyway.. did you finish both sides? It is often recommended that you apply the same stuff to both sides of a panel subject to movement, so moisture can enter and exit both sides at the same rate. Movement is less troublesme if it stays linear rather than cupping or warping. For a good reference see Understanding Wood: A Craftsman's Guide to Wood Technology by R. Bruce Hoadley; or Fine Woodworking magazine.

As Jerry said, about the best you can do is frame or glue to a substrate, or both, if you want to reduce movement with your existing work.

Another option is choosing a wood less subject to movement. For quick access to tables of wood properties including shrinkage see the US Forest Products Lab site:
http://www.fpl.fs.fed.us/rwu4714/shrinkage_of_wood_faq.htm

Good Luck

[chebytrk]

Wood is always going to move, there's really nothing you can do about it.

That said, inlays, or veneers are very thin strips of wood that are glued to a backer board of some kind. They're so thin, even though they do move, they're glued in place, and the movement doesn't show - almost like the movement is completely stopped.

If you look at an intarsia project, the edges of each piece of wood are curved, tapered, etc. That really allows wood movement without the movement showing.

Finally, when you carve a piece of wood in the CW, the result is a piece with many different lengths of fibers - the grain of the wood. The longer grains will move more than the shorter, cut grains, etc. So, you can take two 12x12 pieces of wood, carve one, leave the other, and one will move more than the other.

You may be best served to take all your pieces and put them together with a frame around them without gluing them together - that way, they can move without messing up the project. If you glue them all together, given that they are all 12x12 pieces, you do run the risk of the wood splitting as it gains/loses moisture (and, it will likely split/move in places other than the glue joints).

Frankly, I'd be tempted to glue them all up, and take my chances (unless someone's paying you a small fortune for the work).

One other thought - you could, if you have a planer/wide drum sander, reduce the thicknesses of all the pieces to less than 1/16" (after carving them) and glue them all onto a plywood backer board.

Speaking of Intarsia..... Can that be done with a CW? We have some intarsia projects that we bought and they're really beautiful (especially my eagle). Just wondering if CW can make that kind of stuff or if anyone has attempted.

[bjbethke]

Speaking of Intarsia..... Can that be done with a CW? We have some intarsia projects that we bought and they're really beautiful (especially my eagle). Just wondering if CW can make that kind of stuff or if anyone has attempted.
You could make patterns from the finished products. I made this PTN from a photo. It is easer to cut out parts with a scroll saw and shape them with a power carver.

[mtylerfl]

Speaking of Intarsia..... Can that be done with a CW? We have some intarsia projects that we bought and they're really beautiful (especially my eagle). Just wondering if CW can make that kind of stuff or if anyone has attempted.

I've been meaning to design some "faux" intarsia projects for quite some time now. Keep putting it off, but maybe I'll get to it sooner now that you've brought it up.;)

[chebytrk]

Hey MichaelT, any insight as to what next months project is gonna be?

[mtylerfl]

Hey MichaelT, any insight as to what next months project is gonna be?

Hi Jerry,

I'll post a photo in the Gallery...

[Router-Jim]

Hi,

I'm doing a multi piece carve basically the cave has 6 parts to form the end result,

Each part is a 12" by 12" carve, at the end the intention id to form a mosaic type finish product.

I was able to create the projects and the borders do match exactly as expected I have carve the first 2 test pieces pot of oak , I place them next to each other and they align perfectly.

I stained the first and let it dry, for some reason (here I'm admitting I'm no expert just a weekend amateur) the stained piece cupped a little not a lot, just enough so it does not rest flat on its back.

So here is were I need your advice on how to prevent the wood from twisting or cooping,

What sating techniques can I use? Or where do I find goo literature about it?

Thanks

When you carve into a piece of wood you are exposing a new surface and it is quite common for the board to cup in the direction of the carve. To help prevent this immediately store your board (carved side down) after carving. When you apply your finish, apply it to all sides. Allow equal air movement around the board while it is drying by resting it on pyramids or dowels. Usually the carved side takes an extra coat as it will absorb more finish.

Consider using a spline joint to assemble your panels. It will help hold your panels flat and will still allow for wood movement.


Sorry so lengthy and Good luck.

Jim