Carrier Board

[unitedcases]

Here is a question. I have read and read and read all I can on Carrier sleds. I have a project that I carve alot of. It is 3/4 thick, 7 1/4 wide and 51" long. So first question, can the sled be as wide as I want it? I would like for the board that I am cutting to fit down in the sled tight, so if I make 3/4 rails then the total sled width would be 8 3/4, correct?
Then the length would be 58"? And I would want the rails to be 1 inch tall?
If anyone can just physically say what they would make that would be a great help. This forum is great but sometimes its like going the tool section during a big sale. I can never make up my mind. Thanks for all the help.

[fwharris]

Here is a question. I have read and read and read all I can on Carrier sleds. I have a project that I carve alot of. It is 3/4 thick, 7 1/4 wide and 51" long. So first question, can the sled be as wide as I want it? I would like for the board that I am cutting to fit down in the sled tight, so if I make 3/4 rails then the total sled width would be 8 3/4, correct?
Then the length would be 58"? And I would want the rails to be 1 inch tall?
If anyone can just physically say what they would make that would be a great help. This forum is great but sometimes its like going the tool section during a big sale. I can never make up my mind. Thanks for all the help.

Sled width can be any width - yes. Then you can add any width side rails to go with any width project board.
Sled width would be 8 3/4 - yes.
Sled length would be 58" - yes.

That would put your carved board centered width/length.

Side rails should be the same height as your carved board.

Another option would be to use just a 3 1/2" X 7 1/4" block on each end of your project board..

When you said you have read lots on this did you include the tips and tricks on sleds and carrier boards?

[unitedcases]

I read the tips and tricks but just kind of needed someone to really spell it out. I would like to make it a little wider that way if I want to shim and what not I can. And of course then I just need to make sure that if it ask depth, then I pick project and it wont cut through the sled? Plus how does the cut path work? I have read to believe that you can once again use cut path if you are upgraded to 1.134 which I am.

[unitedcases]

Didnt even think to ask before, what is the best materail to use for a sled?

[unitedcases]

So you are saying take a piece of wood that is whatever thickness by 8 3/4 by 58", then put 3 1/2 long blocks at each end 3/4 tall then put 3/4 x 3/4 rails on each side, ending up with a tray so to speak so then all I have to do is lay the piece in it and everything stays in the tray? Obviously you have to add a few screws from the bottom for the pieces that are cut out but that is the general idea.:rolleyes:

[DocWheeler]

unitedcases,

There are several ways to do what you are after. For a board that long, I would personally just use Rails on the top and bottom (3/4" X 3/4" X 58" long) attached with tape or mechanical fasteners. Put blocking at the ends if wanted or simply put tape across the ends (top, about 1.5" wide) for the sensor to see.

Also, as Al suggests, have tape on the bottom of the rail that rides the brass sensor. I think that Al has some stock in Scotch! If you use 1" - 1.5" tape on the bottom, you already have one rail attached to your board if you work it right!

[Digitalwoodshop]

Yes,

I have stock in MASKING TAPE.... Sort of Stuck on it..... I use the bottom of the shelf Home Depot very cheap stuff found in the paint department.

If you didn't get your question answered, you set the board thickness in designer to your working board thickness not the combined sled and board.

I hold the boards being cut to my sled with again.... Masking Tape.... Who would have guessed that...


AL

[liquidguitars]

It is 3/4 thick, 7 1/4 wide and 51" long.

I would add 10" to the long measurement so Designer project board to be .75" X 8.75"x 61" long.


Here is a sled that I use for necks.. you can see the 3/4 on the sides 4" on the ends and a extra 2" for screws so the part will stay put.
this part is fliped and cut on the b side.

http://96.9.54.101/liquidguitars.com/assets/images/NeckpatternR001.jpg

LG

[PCW]

LG

The work you push this little machine to do is absolutely amazing. You are truly a leader in your designs. Keep up the great work.

[unitedcases]

So what you have their is a carrier board? I noticed you said you can flip it. How do you work the cut paths?

[liquidguitars]

PCW, thank you!

yea this is a Sled. I just got into the habit of using them for my work as it saves on wood Sleds can also remove some vibration and it helps to support fragile parts.


How do you work the cut paths?

For my neck most of the hard work is done by the good old 1/16"carving bit set to .79" deep for a .75" thick part. The term is "pierced carving" as the outline is cutout at the same time the part is carving saving tooling.

We have a few options when cutting a spline path the main idea is to make sure the part never moves IE auto tabs or manual Its up to the design at this point to choose the correct way to do a cutout in a part.

this photo shows headstock plate for a 1959 Gibson the design requires me to use manual cut paths as I am cutting more than one depth needed for the truss rod cut out.

http://96.9.54.101/liquidguitars.com/assets/images/HeadstockR003.jpg
LG

[unitedcases]

Truly amazing. The big thing with the sled is that I will be carving on the entire piece of wood. So I definitely need the carrier board and I think that I will do best with rails and a top and bottom and then just using the center technique. Thanks for all the help.