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Darthmaul1964
04-22-2009, 03:44 PM
I have tried to carve a design I made for my grandson. For some reason it just is not working out. The first time I tried to cut it, the maching cut straight through the side of the piece at full depth (1/2") when it was about 62% done. The second time it got about 75% done and then seemed to skip a section of the board and then take up where it left off, resulting in the design running off the board. Any suggestions as to what the problem might be? I don't think its the design since it is not making the same error each time. Seems to be the machine. I am attaching a photo of the messed up project as well as the program.

Digitalwoodshop
04-22-2009, 04:28 PM
I see a few things.

First the gap in length could have been caused by the board loosing contact with the brass roller on the underside of the wood. A strip of masking tape along the bottom of the wood will help wood like Oak get a better grip on the roller.

Second is that the gap could be 3.5 inches from the end, caused when the end of the board either went under a roller or came out from one. It is important to design the projects with 4 inches of wood to stay under the rollers. I place a 4 inch block on the end of every project and use place on end when I cut. That way the project is held by 2 rollers flat to the table.

In feed and outfeed table adjustment can cause this problem too.... Drooping or too high...

This addresses the gap in cutting.... The machine moves the board like paper indexes thought a printer. When the board looses contact with the brass roller underneath, it keeps moving the board until the brass wheel encoder gives the computer the right number. That is why the gap.

As for carving through the project. Make sure you watch the bit touching the bit flag after changing the bit. A miss or error here at the bit flag effects the project carving.

Look for posts showing my pictures of the OLD Z and the NEW Z. The Fins on the old are long and short on the new. If you have the old Z you really want the New Z as the wires are thicker and the old Z had Z Stall Problems that the New Z fixed.

So... That should help.....

So if you want to use my 4 inch on the end all you do is in designer draw a 4 x 4 box and place it on the right side of designer. Start your artwork to the left of the box and when you place the board in the machine it cuts the right side of designer. you can say NO to stay under rollers with this 4 inch method and use PLACE on END not Center of Board.

Good Luck,

AL

cnsranch
04-22-2009, 04:47 PM
Al, you're right on.

One thing I'm stuck on, he's better off creating, then outlining the patterns, and doing away with the waste via cut paths instead of the carving bit, but I can't get the frame right.

Take a look...(what's attached is real rough)

Darthmaul1964
04-23-2009, 08:54 AM
Al,
I think you may be right about the brass roller issue. This problem did crop up right after the end of the board came out from under left roller. I had set it to place the design on the end of the board instead of centering on the board. I should have selected center on board and then it should have stayed under the roller on both ends. The board was long enough. Good catch. Thanks.

Darthmaul1964
04-23-2009, 09:17 AM
Al, you're right on.

One thing I'm stuck on, he's better off creating, then outlining the patterns, and doing away with the waste via cut paths instead of the carving bit, but I can't get the frame right.

Take a look...(what's attached is real rough)

I wanted the negative space around the name removed. The three balls just act as docorative "tabs" to hold the name in place within the open background. Then I trim the board so there is a "frame" around the open space. I made one like this for two other grand kids and they came out fine but were not made of oak. I agree that the hardness of the oak and the board not staying under both rollers was the cause.

Digitalwoodshop
04-23-2009, 09:54 AM
For durability I would set the whole thing in a recess area as i believe it will break along the thin grain lines. The backer board would give it some stability. I do like the carve through idea.

Masking tape gives the brass roller something to bit into in hard wood.

AL

Darthmaul1964
04-23-2009, 10:01 AM
Both of the projects I have completed are fragile and need to be handles carefully. But they did stay in tact through out the carving. Here are the programs for them.

Darthmaul1964
04-28-2009, 02:13 PM
Finally got it worked out. Here is the final result. Thanks for the advice Al. I put tape on the bottom edge to help grip the brass roller and started with a longer piece of oak. Problem solved.