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carvewright
09-20-2005, 11:55 AM
Before you Post Your Question, answer ours:


Did you look in the FAQs and still can't find your question?

Have you looked at the other forum sections to see if your topic is listed?

Have you tried to do a search on your topic? (Use quotation marks to help in your search.)

OK then, Post Your Question HERE.

Any registered forum member can post in this thread or reply to these questions, but only moderators may post new topics in this section. Registered members may post new topics in any of the other forums on this site.

Thank you, and enjoy!

NauticalTraders
02-01-2007, 01:23 PM
I have been reading through your FAQ's. You said the advanced software package would be released in 2007. Thats great! I bought the entire CarveWright system when I saw it. Will there be any release for those of us who already have the machine or will we have to purchase it as well??

Chris

menewfy
02-01-2007, 01:29 PM
it appears that they intend to make it avail to everyone but at this point there has been no set price (the last time I checked anyway).

it also appears that they will break apart some pieces like centerline font for a portion of the price.

stay tuned

New2U
05-24-2007, 11:00 AM
I see pics with a .mpc. What program loads those?

Thanks :D

VtBlues
05-24-2007, 11:45 AM
.mpc file are loaded by the compuCarve designer software. From what I understand current owners will have to buy the new software for a fairly steep price.

sanray
06-08-2007, 11:34 AM
Can any one tell me where to get 1/2" thick wood by 12" w or more .Thank Ray: confused:

rjustice
06-08-2007, 12:04 PM
sanray,
It really depends on what you are trying to accomplish and what tools and skills you have. You can buy MDF or plywood in 4x8 foot sheets and if you dont have capabilities to rip it you can have your Lowes or Home depot cut it in sizes you want when you purchase it. I have seen white pine project boards that are laminated strips, again ready to purchase at Lowes or HD... If you are looking for hardwoods, you can get milled material from some lumber mills. If you have the tools and ability, you can use a jointer planer, and glue thin strips together to laminate them, then thickness plane them to your 1/2 thickness...

Hope that helps...

Ron

hewittrj78218
06-10-2007, 09:00 AM
I picked my Craftsman on Sat. I am reading anything I can. I have a few question.

What is the connector on the back under the out fead table?

What is a good wood to use to practiceon? I have some MDF.

rjustice
06-10-2007, 09:07 AM
hewitt,
The port was rumored to be a connector for a 4th axis attachment, but nothing has been released on that yet?... dont know if it ever will but thats what i heard.

Practice material - I used MDF as well for a little while, but found that it caused a lot of dust problems, gave me headaches, and ultimately has a chemical in it that is very bad for you. If you choose to use it, I highly reccomend using a dust mask, and you will have a good bit of vacuuming out to do afterwards. It does cave nice, and creates a nice painted project. Once you get going, you will want to create a downdraft table to control the dust, and it isnt an issue.

A decent cheap material is either pine shelving, or poplar, both available at your local Lowes, or Home Depot.

Hope this helps,

Ron

hewittrj78218
06-10-2007, 09:37 AM
Thanks for the information!

I think I will get me some poplar. I don't like anything with chemical in it. I am an Agent Orange Patient. And I don't need any more crap in my system!

Thanks
Bob Hewitt

rjustice
06-10-2007, 01:05 PM
Bob,
Glad i could help. The poplar does carve pretty decent. As you get to the point of wanting to produce things to keep or sell, hardwoods will give you a nicer result with less work to clean it up. Dan just started a thread today showing a clock face that he produced out of oak, and claims no sanding needed. I have been lucky with several that way in cherry, maple, and oak. Oak is a little more open grained, so it wont hold intricate detail quite as well as the other two, but it sure finishes nicely.

Good luck, and thank you for your service to our country (the agent orange comment) I assume you are a veteran.

Happy Carving,

Ron

hewittrj78218
06-12-2007, 06:29 AM
Thanks for the info. Yes I am a veteran 3 tours in Nam and retired after 20 years. I am looking for the Moly lube for the flexshaft but all I can find is Moly lube with graphite . Will this work?

forqnc
06-12-2007, 06:44 AM
Thanks for the info. Yes I am a veteran 3 tours in Nam and retired after 20 years. I am looking for the Moly lube for the flexshaft but all I can find is Moly lube with graphite . Will this work?
I found the Moly Lube at Home Depot, not sure if the graphite will help.

Hexe SA
06-12-2007, 10:28 AM
use the stuff with graphite. Graphite will store heat and the flex shaft will heat up more. Found it out the hard way. I got moly lube without graphite at O'reilly's autoparts 12 oz. for $3.99. The only reason it was O'reilly's is they were the closest ones to me but I'm sure other autopartstores carry it too.
Eva

DocWheeler
06-12-2007, 11:09 AM
Thanks for the heads-up, I would not have thought of that!

rjustice
06-12-2007, 03:24 PM
Also, Ace hardware has gunk industrial chain lube with moly... that is what i used... working great. Still on my first lube

Ron

hewittrj78218
06-12-2007, 08:14 PM
This is a very reason that this forum is so good! Thanks to all who have helped me! I hope to get up and carving soon. I plan to share some graphics and project. I have many military graphics. If you have a need please let me know and I will try to find it for you.

Thanks
Bob Hewitt

Ps. My avatar is the Army Medical Department crest.

rjustice
06-12-2007, 09:04 PM
Glad we could help Bob...

Happy carving!

Ron

dwight
08-11-2007, 07:04 AM
How do you convert .ptn files to .mpc ?

Kenm810
08-11-2007, 07:43 AM
Hi dwight,

First off Welcome to the Forum.
Converting .ptn files to .mpc ---Open Designer and press the shell shaped icon that will open your .ptn library folders,
Right click to menu and select import, pick the folder or place you have the .ptn you want to convert and click on it.
The file will be added to your library files. clicking on the file and move it to you project board,
now you can work on it or save it as a .mpc file

mwildes
08-21-2007, 03:37 AM
I've had my awesome machine for about a month now. The postings here by all of the new and all of the experienced owners has been invaluable. Thanks to everyone for sharing! I have a couple of questions as a new guy with this machine.

1) What is the limitation to carve depth? I know the machine will accept a workpiece 5" thick, but how deep can I carve into it? And, what is the thickest piece that I can create a cutout through?

2) Does the color/darkness of wood affect the infrared sensor? I had a scrap piece that was painted brown. I wanted to see the effect of a pre-finished piece, that was then then routed. But, I kept getting the error "Clear Sensor". I cleaned the sensor several times, ran through the checks listed in the manual, and had no success. Then, I tried a piece that was not pre-finished, and the sensor worked fine. Was it the darkness of the piece or the paint that made the infrared sensor fail?

Thanks again everybody, and I hope to be an experienced contributor to the forum someday!

Dan-Woodman
08-21-2007, 06:57 PM
Question #1
The depth of cut is 1" , that is if your bit can cut up to 1".
The carving bit has a cutting area of 3/4", so If you have no feather on your carving it would be 3/4".with a feather, it's 1".

Question 2
Yes the color does make a difference, put a piece of tape on it and procede.
later Daniel

mwildes
08-23-2007, 06:56 AM
Thank you Daniel, I appreciate your time to reply.

Marty

skiski
10-31-2007, 11:09 AM
i am really new to this and not sure what i am duing. I made a patter and i am trying to get rid of the square boarder how do i do this.

thanks

greg

william feador
11-05-2007, 02:43 PM
hi,
i have been having all sorts of troubles. First the sensor,then the 1 inch flat ribbon and last but not least the motor. I have replaced all of these then had to upload a new program to install all of the above, now i get a z axis stall error246 help!!!!!!

newton39
12-06-2007, 11:42 AM
I keep getting a error for the back roller it said it was stuck I took it out and cleaned it and the area, and it is still doing it does anyone know what i can do to resolve this? Or why tis is happening.

haynesrm
12-12-2007, 04:28 AM
back roller stuck, I have not been able to release the compression. I too have cleaned, no help. Does any one have an anwer?

Jeff_Birt
12-12-2007, 07:59 AM
This is NOT the area to post in if you are having problems with your machine. Please repost in troubleshooting section, more people will see it there too and you are likely to get some help.

refinisher
12-12-2007, 11:21 AM
I am interested in finding out if the CarveWright will reproduce Antique Furniture molding and small molding from old homes. They are always missing pieces from furniture. Is there anyone out there that has done this yet? Is it possible to place a 5" wide piece of walnut in and get 5 pieces of separate trim molding out?
thanks

Dan-Woodman
12-12-2007, 05:24 PM
Hey refinisher
Welcome , and yes you can reproduce moldings etc. But you will need the probe accessory in order to do that. 299.00 . As far as the molding side by side , if your talking about scanning one molding and then duplicating it , you can. It would depend on if your scanning or designing it yourself, and also you can design in other programs like Corel. I don't have a probe myself , but thats what it is for, and I a'm sure anyone that has one can help .
later Daniel

zstat
01-05-2008, 09:20 PM
Are there and differences between the Compucarve and the Carvewright ? I am new to wood working and saw the Compucarve at Sears and was WOW... This could be fun... Is this to advanced for a true novice? and how tough is it to make your own designs? Thanks z

Kenm810
01-06-2008, 08:43 AM
zstat,

Welcome to the forum
The CompuCarve and the CarveWright are the same Machine, Designed and Serviced by LHR in Texas.
CompuCarve is just the Sears Craftmans name on the CarveWright machine.
No real difference be twine them, both come with a 200 hour or 1 year warranty
(no Extended warranties at this time)



ps It's best to post Questions in the Users heading listed below
Your Questions will be noticed and answered quicker that way

Artcarver
01-30-2008, 01:12 PM
i am really new to this and not sure what i am duing. I made a patter and i am trying to get rid of the square boarder how do i do this.

thanks

greg
I am new to this too and I think I am having the same problem? I get a concave border all around my patterns for portraits. Don't know how to delete this? Can anyone tell me what I need to do? I know there has to be a way because the portraits I have seen in the forum don't have this border. Thanks.

Jeff_Birt
01-30-2008, 01:28 PM
You have to make the areas around your subject transparent in an photo editing program.

marinan
02-01-2008, 09:36 PM
Were you able to re-create the molding you mentioned in your note to FAQ?
I am needing to make profile templates of stick molding. Any suggestions as to where to look?
thanks, marinan

mmartin55
02-02-2008, 05:21 PM
I saw the carvewright at the KC Woodworking Show and think it may help me in my business. Here are my questions concerns.

1. I need to cut flat baltic birch plywood into shapes similar to the wooden dinosoar models with notches for joining to other parts.

2. Will the machine cut stock as thin as 1/16" or thinner?

3. Will this machine cut these flat parts efficiently form 14.5" cut stock say the full length of the sheet goods if I have good outfeed surface?

4. Can I join several sheets in laminations and cut multiple parts at the same time?

5. What is the smallest diameter of cutting bit I can use since I think this will determine the level of precision I can achieve in the notches?

6. What is the precision of the machine in thousandths?

7. What is the repeatability in thousandths if given by the manufacturer?

8. What would the cutter speed in inches or feet per minute be for 1/16", 1/8" and 1/4" baltic plywood?

9. Will it cut 3/8" and 1/2" goods too?

10. Can I use the files I already have in Illustrator format and simply change the layout to 14.5 inches wide by whatever fits all of the same thickness parts?

Thanks for your help.

hotpop
02-02-2008, 05:58 PM
I think I can answer most of your question.


1. I need to cut flat baltic birch plywood into shapes similar to the wooden dinosoar models with notches for joining to other parts.

No Problem.


2. Will the machine cut stock as thin as 1/16" or thinner?

Yes, but you will need to fasten the thin material to a backer board with double stick tape or hot melt so both boards move together. Minimum total thickness is 3/8". We call the backer board a skid.


3. Will this machine cut these flat parts efficiently form 14.5" cut stock say the full length of the sheet goods if I have good out feed surface?

Yes. You can go to 15" wide by removing the movable guide rail.


4. Can I join several sheets in laminations and cut multiple parts at the same time?

Yes.


5. What is the smallest diameter of cutting bit I can use since I think this will determine the level of precision I can achieve in the notches?

The machine comes with two bits, a 1/8" dia. cutting bit and a 1/16" bull nose carving bit. One of our fourm members offer smaller bits for sale.


6. What is the precision of the machine in thousandths?

I believe I read the machine is accurate to .005" someplace.


7. What is the repeatability in thousandths if given by the manufacturer?

Again I think is it .005"


8. What would the cutter speed in inches or feet per minute be for 1/16", 1/8" and 1/4" baltic plywood?

The software controls the cutter and feed speeds there is no user interface necessary.


9. Will it cut 3/8" and 1/2" goods too?

Maximun cutting depth recomended is 3/4" due to the length of the flutes on the cutter. I cut 3/4" red oak all the time.

Your welcome

Dan-Woodman
02-02-2008, 06:05 PM
If anyone is going to the kc show tommorrow,sunday, I'll be working at The Lee's Summit Woodworkers Guild booth from 10-12 am. see ya there Daniel

mmartin55
02-02-2008, 06:29 PM
Thanks Hotpop

11. Will it cut birch ply like the Baltic variety fairly cleanly with a bit as small as 1/16 inch?

12. If I cut 3/8" or 1/2" stock I assume I need no backer or skid. Is this 3/8" minimum stock height due to the machine feeding the material from traction on the top side?

13. How is the stock propelled or conveyed?

14. Will in need to face-sand the surfaces to remove fuzz or will it be better to use a backer and a top peice always to get less tearout on the outer surfaces of the cut. (I guess that's subjective but what I am getting at is the cut quality going to be acceptable in aircraft wing ribs and wing tip bows of 9-20 inches in chord?)

You can view the prodouct I am proposing cutting in question at www.tmrcsailplanes.com. It is the TG-2 shown on the home page but will be four times larger with 20 foot wingspan.

15. Is there anyone in Kansas City that will cut the first one for me for hire so I can assess the quality and build before purchasing?

Tom

P.S. and thanks and thanks again!

hotpop
02-02-2008, 07:10 PM
Tom


11. Will it cut birch ply like the Baltic variety fairly cleanly with a bit as small as 1/16 inch?

For your application I don't think you will have any problems. The edges may have a little feathering but is easily removed with a few swipes of sandpaper.


12. If I cut 3/8" or 1/2" stock I assume I need no backer or skid. Is this 3/8" minimum stock height due to the machine feeding the material from traction on the top side?

I'm not really sure. It might be because the machine rollers won't apply enough pressure on the work piece.


13. How is the stock propelled or conveyed?

There are two sandpaper covered drums on which the work piece lays on. Above the piece are two pressure rollers that hold the piece against sandpaper. The sandpaper rollers are what control the "X" axis. There is a space between the two sandpaper rollers that allow the cutter to travel on the "Y" and "Z" axis with out interference. Dpwnload the "Exploded View Parts " from the CW home page under Support/Downloads.


14. Will in need to face-sand the surfaces to remove fuzz or will it be better to use a backer and a top peice always to get less tearout on the outer surfaces of the cut. (I guess that's subjective but what I am getting at is the cut quality going to be acceptable in aircraft wing ribs and wing tip bows of 9-20 inches in chord?)

You don't need a top board.


You can view the prodouct I am proposing cutting in question at www.tmrcsailplanes.com. It is the TG-2 shown on the home page but will be four times larger with 20 foot wingspan.

Nice plane. I've been flying R/C sailplanes about ten years but got away ffrom it a few years ago when I moved away from my club. I think you'll like the CW for your application.

BTW, You can down the CW software from their site and try it. It's good for 30 days.


15. Is there anyone in Kansas City that will cut the first one for me for hire so I can assess the quality and build before purchasing


Probably but I don't know. Perhaps another forum member will respond.

mmartin55
02-02-2008, 08:54 PM
Thanks again. Would you be interested in cutting me a part each from 1/16", 1/8", 1/4" and 1/2" baltic plywood if I mail you some samples?

Tom

hotpop
02-02-2008, 10:43 PM
Sorry Tom I don't have my machine available right now. Perhaps another forum member can help you.

Dave Boland
02-03-2008, 10:34 AM
Would be nice if we can get a check list or punch list of what was actually performed on our machines while they were in the shop for repair? I was having problems with the "Y"
track. Machine came back with no "Y" problems, however it also had different "Z" truck installed, synchronous belt had extreme slop, new crank handle, sliding guide plate was loose, and x drive gear was missing teeth. Could not have passed a run test. My machine is 6 months old and I was told it is one of the older models. I understand the need for cannibalization, but are old parts and new parts interchangeable?

muntin chops
02-28-2008, 05:29 PM
I've been absolutely infatuated with this machine, it's capabilities, and the depth of knowledge, experience, creativity and ingenuity flowing here in this forum (sorry, can't help the sappiness, i do mean it though).

Anyhoo...all that being said, my carvewright hasn't even showed up yet. But i already have so many questions! I've tried my best to get as many answered as i can through searching. So here goes:

-i'll be working with expensive species of woods (mahogany, cypress, cedar, etc). I'm human and I expect to make my own mistakes, so i'll buy those screw-ups. But if a bit breaks, like the carving or cutting bit, is there any way for the machine to sense that break and prevent further damage to the wood, or more importantly, the machine itself, by stopping at the time of the break?

-I've read about this elusive '10 hour carve club' and can't wait to join it myself. But does that refer to the total amount of machine time added up over the duration of the project, or an actual 10 hour nonstop running of the machine? I'm curious because I wanted to know what the maximum comfortable time is to run the machine on a daily or monthly basis. I can understand that complex carves or dense woods would play a role in the average times.

-the manual says that the 'sand belts' (those are the traction belts, right?) need to be paid more attention to if you carve on material weighing over 20 lbs. Does anyone have maximum comfortable weights they've worked with? I forsee some heavy pieces in my future. Has anyone found they need to replace the belts more frequently due to heavier pieces?

-i need to make templates for cutting moulding knives. the manual says a polycarbonate or cast acryllic can be used since they won't melt. I've also read that many projects have been made from corian. has anyone had good/bad results with 2D plastic cuts? my need, as far as the plastic goes, is a long lasting, hard plastic.


I know these are a lot of questions to start with and I'm pretty long winded. I appreciate any help you guys can give me and look forward to giving back to the forum based on my future adventures.

Thanks guys!


PS-my fiance wants me to use more smileys. so :p:rolleyes:;)

woodbug
02-29-2008, 04:09 PM
Hey guys thinking of getting a machine how tough are they, will they last for a long time.

hotpop
02-29-2008, 05:53 PM
muntin chops

I'll try to answer some of your questions.


But if a bit breaks, like the carving or cutting bit, is there any way for the machine to sense that break and prevent further damage to the wood, or more importantly, the machine itself, by stopping at the time of the break?

It's not likely that a bit will break while the machine is running. Breakage usually occures when the bit in not all the way in the chuck properly. In that case, the bit will usually fall out before the cutting takes place or when it makes initial contact with the wood. Once the machine is cutting a minute or so you can feel comfortable walking away from it. If the machine has a broken bit, the machine does not know it and will keep running. Just hit the stop button or open the cover to stop the machine.

I visit my machine every 20 or 30 minutes to check the flex shaft for excessive heat.


-I've read about this elusive '10 hour carve club' and can't wait to join it myself. But does that refer to the total amount of machine time added up over the duration of the project, or an actual 10 hour nonstop running of the machine? I'm curious because I wanted to know what the maximum

I invented the "10+ Hour Club" as a joke. To be a member you need to do a project that has a cut time of 10 plus hours. Sort of like being a member of the "Mile High Club". Just something to boast about.

I don't know if there is such a thing as maximum running time. You might want to open the cover and vacuum out chips and give the machine a rest once in a while. Closing the cover will start the cutting where it left off.


I can understand that complex carves or dense woods would play a role in the average times.

Dense woods won't make any difference. The machine doesn't know what it is cutting. Curves won't make much difference either.


the manual says that the 'sand belts' (those are the traction belts, right?) need to be paid more attention to if you carve on material weighing over 20 lbs. Does anyone have maximum comfortable weights they've worked with? I forsee some heavy pieces in my future. Has anyone found they need to replace the belts more frequently due to heavier pieces?

I think I read in the Owners Manual that the sandpaper belts should last the life of the machine. Some people have replaced them because they tore them.

Weight will probably not be an issue. Length of your boards is probably more important. Any board longer then three feet should have additional outboard support.


i need to make templates for cutting moulding knives. the manual says a polycarbonate or cast acryllic can be used since they won't melt. I've also read that many projects have been made from corian. has anyone had good/bad results with 2D plastic cuts? my need, as far as the plastic goes, is a long lasting, hard plastic.

Corian is acryllic palstic I believe. Many people in the forum are carving the stuff. I haven't heard anything negative about Corian except the dust tends to stick to everything inside the machine.

hotpop
02-29-2008, 06:05 PM
woodbug


Hey guys thinking of getting a machine how tough are they, will they last for a long time.

WoW! That's a loaded question. How long is a long time? When you buy a car do you ask the same question? It's like a car, change the oil every 3000 miles, check the tires, and only take it out of the garage to drive it to church on Sundays it will run a long time.

Machine life will depend on you. How you maintain the machine and use it is up to you.

mesa007
02-29-2008, 08:15 PM
Can any one tell me what to expect for the finish product? i.e, is a lot of additional hand sanding required? I 'wood' expect some in softer wood, but I am referring to surface cut like those in corbels. Some of the photos presented herein look very good, but what preparation was done in advance of the photos.

thanks in advance

dave

hotpop
02-29-2008, 08:43 PM
mesa007

A lot will depend on the wood you select. I found that the harder woods don't need a prep before sanding. Soft woods I usually apply sanding sealer to stiffen any whiskers.

In Designer there are five setting for bit optimization and when uploading to the flash card there are three additional quality settings. Setting every to the best setting will probably double the machining time. You will need to experiment and decide what is best for you.

castingman
02-29-2008, 08:54 PM
Hey hotpop,

I carved four panels 4.5 hrs each in one day , can i count that ?

Michael

hotpop
03-01-2008, 10:04 PM
Michael,

Nope! Don't count..

muntin chops
03-02-2008, 11:18 AM
Thanks so much for the help.

I can't stand not having my CarveWright here yet!

Looking forward to my first show-&-tell!:p

sensei
03-06-2008, 07:37 PM
I just got off the Sear site, I think I would like to buy one but wow the people that wrote reviews were not very kind to this tool.

Have they took care of some of the problems they had?

Thanks for the input.

Sensei

newt55
03-11-2008, 11:03 AM
I keep getting a message "power fluctuation" every few minutes while the machine is running. The machine shuts down. I push enter, and it starts to work again. I have no porblems with power anywhere else in the house. I have tried plugging it in to different circuits, but with no improvement. HELP!!!!
Dave

Jeff_Birt
03-11-2008, 11:20 AM
Dave, give CW tech support a call. It sounds like you might have power supply issues.

oldman
03-29-2008, 09:21 PM
I don't know if Sears has fixed the problem of not. When I was looking to buy one there were out of stock, so I look at who made the machine and it was Carvewright so I ordered one from them. It took a little while to get here but that was because they were testing each machine to see if it was working correctly and then they shipped it. When I received it there was still some saw dust in it so I knew it was checked, do far no reary problems. Also if you haven't looked at the tips & tricks links there are a lot of good tips.

aikenaugie
03-30-2008, 07:19 AM
I just got off the Sear site, I think I would like to buy one but wow the people that wrote reviews were not very kind to this tool.

Have they took care of some of the problems they had?

Thanks for the input.

Sensei
Sensei, I did the same thing in reading all the reviews on the sears site. I have worked in machining for many years and really wanted to purchase this machine! I went ahead and purchased the carvewright from sears. I read and studied all the manuals and went to the carvewright site and read everything that I could find there in the tips and faqs. Finally started the machine and it is fantastic!! A lot of the negative reviews came from inexperience and operator errors. The carvewright is awsome!! Don't believe everything you read....especially in this case.

Kenm810
03-30-2008, 07:31 AM
Hey Guys, I just wantned to say Hello and Welcome to the CW Forum.
If you post your messages in the users sections below,
you'll find that you will get much more response to your posts.
Again Happy to see you and Welcome.

Ajnin
03-30-2008, 04:35 PM
I purchased a new basic bit set from sears, they have a carbide coating on them, when I look closely at the bits, there is a sizable gap between the outside of the coating and the cutting surface and is definately not sharp to the touch, my questions are;

Do I need to prep the bit in some way to remove or reduce this coating?

Is there some way to tell the design software which bits I have, so it can optimize bit use?

Thanks in advance.

Jeff_Birt
03-30-2008, 05:14 PM
Please post you questions to the users forum section, NOT HERE.

Router bits come with a wax type coating over them, it just peels off. This is not carbide. The carbide is the squarish looking pieces that do the cutting.

You cannot set up your own bits in the software at this time.

lhanner
06-15-2008, 03:03 PM
Can someone guide me through carving a photo on acrylics. I have carved some, but the finish is rough and scrachy. I would like to carve my grandson on smoke colored acrylics. Please help, and thanks.

poppy

henry1
09-08-2008, 10:55 AM
What is the going price when you carve out any item in birtch or oak or butternut I dont know what to ask as price wise any help would be appreciated

atauer
09-08-2008, 10:59 AM
Please put all posts on the actual user area of the forum. This part is strictly for announcements and information sent out by Carvewright.

Prices will tend to vary depending on size, time, etc. Try doing a search for this information. I remember seeing a thread at one point in time that dealt with pricing of projects.

Tomahawk 26
11-17-2008, 04:11 PM
I am a new user and I have some questions. What woods provide the best results? I have tested in Red Oak, Aspen and Pine but don't think they have a good enough result for final pieces. Are the pattern probe and Pattern Editor software worth the money? I tried to convert a picture using the designer software and did not get a good result. I sure hope the $350 I am spending for the probe and Pattern Editor software gets it done.

TomW
12-02-2008, 09:27 AM
In many graphic programs there is an icon to make areas transparent. In Power Point it is an L angle with a pointer at 45 degrees pointing away from the vertical and horizontal lines of the "L". Click or select the graphic you want a part to become transparent (getting the little boxes around the graphic) then click on the icon I'm trying to describe. Then click the area of the graphic you want to become transparent. You will see things from behind showing through. If it is white, you will loose the lines. If the lines are colored, then make them white.

cperk
12-10-2008, 01:49 PM
Hi everyone - new Canuck user here
we finally got the machine up here in Canada just over a month ago
and a proud owner (by the way great support staff)

thanks to all who have shared their files
I found a couple of files though that I get an error of created by newer version
I have downloaded and was running version 1.131

would it be that these may have been done on other software other than the Carvewight design software

Dan-Woodman
12-10-2008, 08:26 PM
There are limitations to changing files that you did not create . It' possible it was created in a former version of designer or maybe it's a pattern for sale.
Welcome to the forum.
later Daniel

Woodpecker
12-17-2008, 09:04 PM
The acrylics are available in 1/4" thick. Two questions regarding 1/4".
#1 how do I snap the grid to 1/4"?
#2 how do you use 1/4" acrylic with the CW? I am not able to use 1/4 wood in the set up of the CW without using a backup board and double faced tape. I must be missing some instructions.
#3 Where are these instructions?
Thanks!
Woodpecker

Kenm810
12-18-2008, 08:19 AM
#1 Yes you can snap to 1/4" ---- by adjusting the scale of the Grid to 1/4"
#2 You can not carve 1/4" stock without a Sled or Carrier Board --the minimum carve able stock thickness is 1/2"

#3 try these -- ISSUE 7 April 2008 – Carving Jigs – Carrier Boards, Sleds and Rails (http://www.carvewright.com/downloads/tips/CarveWrightTips&Tricks_Apr08.pdf)

Woodpecker, Please post your Questions in the User portion of the forum below.
This post should be in the CarveWright Machine (http://forum.carvewright.com/forumdisplay.php?f=20) or Techniques (http://forum.carvewright.com/forumdisplay.php?f=25) Headers

Michael Anthony
01-14-2009, 07:44 AM
Can someone help me with this problem, I just did my first scan, made my sled to the specs they suggested in the little book that came with the probe, the scan took a long time, my scan area was 8.25 X15.25, I had it on best and it took 7 or 8 hours. Will it take that long to carve also? And now that I have the Info on the card how do I get it into the design software to work on it? page 16 in the scanning probe book (the last sentence) says "Open the carvewright design software and access the scan data by selecting the Download scan menu itemon the file menu" I did that and cant seem to find my project. thanks in advance

Amonaug
01-14-2009, 07:56 AM
Can someone help me with this problem, I just did my first scan, made my sled to the specs they suggested in the little book that came with the probe, the scan took a long time, my scan area was 8.25 X15.25, I had it on best and it took 7 or 8 hours. Will it take that long to carve also? And now that I have the Info on the card how do I get it into the design software to work on it? page 16 in the scanning probe book (the last sentence) says "Open the carvewright design software and access the scan data by selecting the Download scan menu itemon the file menu" I did that and cant seem to find my project. thanks in advance

This is something that should be asked in the Software forum.

It should be listed on the card as Scan1 or something similar.

As for the time, yes something that big will probably take that long or longer depending on the depth it is carved and the quality you set it to carve.

kenbailey
02-17-2009, 04:52 PM
[QUOTE=Michael Anthony;77047]Can someone help me with this problem, I just did my first scan, made my sled to the specs they suggested in the little book that came with the probe, the scan took a long time, my scan area was 8.25 X15.25, I had it on best and it took 7 or 8 hours. Will it take that long to carve also? And now that I have the Info on the card how do I get it into the design software to work on it? page 16 in the scanning probe book (the last sentence) says "Open the carvewright design software and access the scan data by selecting the Download scan menu itemon the file menu" I did that and cant seem to find my project. thanks in advance[/Q HAVE THE SAME PROBLEM

bergerud
02-20-2009, 12:34 AM
I have been a registered member for a while now but I can only reply to this FAQ thread. I cannot reply or post in any other thread. Am I missing something here. What are the forum rules for newbees? I emailed to the webmaster, but no reply. Can anybody explain the system to me. I am lonely here in Canada!

jcorder
02-20-2009, 06:09 AM
I have been a registered member for a while now but I can only reply to this FAQ thread. I cannot reply or post in any other thread. Am I missing something here. What are the forum rules for newbees? I emailed to the webmaster, but no reply. Can anybody explain the system to me. I am lonely here in Canada!

When you click on new post, you see the forum the post is housed in on the far right side of the screen. Click on that link and it will put you into that particular forum (ie., CarveWright machine, software, technique). Scroll to the bottom of all the posts on that page and you will see a button on the left of the screen that says start new thread. Click that button, put a title on the thread and post away!

Good luck
Jeff

bergerud
02-20-2009, 10:10 AM
Thank you for replying Jeff, I have tried what you suggest. I get a message box informing me that I do not have the privleges. At the bottom of any other thread page, the posting rules box says

You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

I must be on the black list!
Dan Bergerud

Jeff_Birt
02-20-2009, 10:34 AM
Please use the 'Contact Us' link at the bottom of any page to contact the website administrator. He can get your account fixed up. When you created your account you should have received a confirmation email that you must reply to before your account is fully activated. many times folks won't realize that they need to reply or their spam filter will eat the email.

bergerud
02-20-2009, 11:11 AM
Thanks for replying Jeff(2). I have sent many emails to support, to forum, and to vender inquires. Now one seems to be home. I think you are right though: I now remember expecting that activation email which never came. (The spam filter at my College is useless, it would not have stopped it.) I will try the "contact us" yet again. Thanks,
Dan Bergerud

Chet67
03-05-2009, 05:28 PM
Hi, I was looking at the projects that are for sale and I noticed
a button to try it before you buy it.
I clicked on it and it went to a wish page where you put your e-mail.
How do you try it before you buy it?

swhitney
03-05-2009, 08:49 PM
Hi, I was looking at the projects that are for sale and I noticed
a button to try it before you buy it.
I clicked on it and it went to a wish page where you put your e-mail.
How do you try it before you buy it?

The patterns and projects can be used in the designer program, bit may not be uploaded to the memory card for carving until the licensing is paid for....

Chet67
03-05-2009, 11:05 PM
The patterns and projects can be used in the designer program, bit may not be uploaded to the memory card for carving until the licensing is paid for....

Thanks for the quick reply, So How do I get it in the designer program?

Jeff_Birt
03-06-2009, 08:10 AM
This is not the place for general discussions. Please move it to the general forum 'Software' section. Thanks...

fwharris
03-17-2009, 12:43 AM
This is a spammer. do not click on any links!

boogeral
07-03-2009, 01:16 PM
Hi: Maby someone can help me sence tech support is closed at this time for the 4 th July. I have a brand new cw machine, done all the pre-inspections recommended per owner's man. Put my work board on a sled and put into machine, installed memory card, turned on machine and LED light came on with a lot of dark squares runing from left to right (2) lines. If i have read the man. correctly it should show main menu and the help I need is not in trouble shoot. Can anyone help thank you boogeral

AskBud
07-03-2009, 03:39 PM
Did you place the Memory Card in the PC and activate it, after you loaded the CD and did those steps?
AskBud

rjustice
07-03-2009, 04:53 PM
Hi: Maby someone can help me sence tech support is closed at this time for the 4 th July. I have a brand new cw machine, done all the pre-inspections recommended per owner's man. Put my work board on a sled and put into machine, installed memory card, turned on machine and LED light came on with a lot of dark squares runing from left to right (2) lines. If i have read the man. correctly it should show main menu and the help I need is not in trouble shoot. Can anyone help thank you boogeral

Welcome aboard!

Have you checked the contrast adjustment? It is the small dial at the bottom of the keypad...

Happy Carving,

Ron

rwmolding
11-10-2009, 06:37 AM
I am a new user and I have some questions. What woods provide the best results? I have tested in Red Oak, Aspen and Pine but don't think they have a good enough result for final pieces. Are the pattern probe and Pattern Editor software worth the money? I tried to convert a picture using the designer software and did not get a good result. I sure hope the $350 I am spending for the probe and Pattern Editor software gets it done.


I just got off the Sear site, I think I would like to buy one but wow the people that wrote reviews were not very kind to this tool.

Have they took care of some of the problems they had?

Thanks for the input.

SenseiTry Amazon if you haven't already purchased one. I got a good deal with accessories, within about a week. I've haven't set up yet, still working on the new shop, so I can't give you a review yet.

carlos
11-22-2009, 10:34 AM
what means error z axis stall when you put the machine with a project for the moment stop with this error message.

DocWheeler
11-22-2009, 10:56 AM
carlos,

I think it indicates that the Z motor found it hard to make the Z-truck/bit move either up or down. This could happen from something being on the rollers or tracks, or chips in the cogs or belt that moves the Z-truck up and down.

Noticed the Thread, probably not the right place for either the question or my response!

carlos
11-22-2009, 09:15 PM
Thanks For Your Information. I Review All That Area And Clean Up. I´m Still Have Problem. I´m Going To Contact Tomorrow Tech Support In Houston.

wizer
03-02-2010, 04:33 PM
Hi Guys

I don't yet own a CW

I wanted to ask a basic question. I'm pretty sure that the answer is no. But there's no harm in asking. Can the carvewright actually cut out shapes? i.e I want to make an oval or a triangle. Will it do that? Or is it just for surface carving only?

Many thanks

cnsranch
03-02-2010, 04:48 PM
It sure can.

wizer
03-02-2010, 04:58 PM
Thanks Jerry. It's just paid for itself before I've even bought it ;)

cnsranch
03-02-2010, 05:06 PM
No problem, wizer.

Just to make sure we're on the same page, a two dimensional oval (flat board, oval cut-out) is probably the easiest thing to do. You're not gonna cut out a three-dimensional "pyramid" without additional software.

FYI, go to Carvewright's website, and then to the Customer Gallery - tons of pics of finished projects to drool over.

After all, if it can do this:

http://forum.carvewright.com/showthread.php?t=14655&highlight=liquidguitars

there's not much it can't do.

AskBud
03-02-2010, 05:07 PM
Hi Guys

I don't yet own a CW

I wanted to ask a basic question. I'm pretty sure that the answer is no. But there's no harm in asking. Can the carvewright actually cut out shapes? i.e I want to make an oval or a triangle. Will it do that? Or is it just for surface carving only?

Many thanks

The basic answer is YES, the CW can cut out shapes.

However, since you are just considering the machine, there are some questions (Q) and limits (L) you need to consider.

Q-1) Are you after the cut-out itself or the void/hole that remains?
L-1) If you are after the cut-out it may be much more economic to use a Band saw, or such, for the job.
L-2) The CW/CC has a depth limit of about .8" to 1" for carving and cutting. You might be able to almost double that limit by cutting on both sides of your board.
Observation-1) If you are after the void left by the cut-out, the CW/CC will do the job.
L-3) Your board width is limited to 14.5" or less.
Observation-2) If you are never going to "Carve" with the unit, the cost is "Over Kill", as you could outfit a small shop for the price of one unit.
AskBud

wizer
03-03-2010, 08:30 AM
Thanks Bud. It's the cutout that I need. Which will have Dados cut in it.

I fully understand what you are saying about using the bandsaw. I wonder if there is any mileage in using the CW to cut a groove all around the project (A triangle) 1/8" deep. Then cutting out on the bandsaw and using a bearing guided router in a router table to clean up? I realise I could just use a single template, but the CW comes in handy ploughing the dados to accept joinery.

The reason I'm considering CNC is that I have a spine problem, so it will take away some of the repetitive tasks and enable me to explore things I don't have time to do with a bad back.

AskBud
03-03-2010, 11:01 AM
Thanks Bud. It's the cutout that I need. Which will have Dados cut in it.

I fully understand what you are saying about using the bandsaw. I wonder if there is any mileage in using the CW to cut a groove all around the project (A triangle) 1/8" deep. Then cutting out on the bandsaw and using a bearing guided router in a router table to clean up? I realise I could just use a single template, but the CW comes in handy ploughing the dados to accept joinery.

The reason I'm considering CNC is that I have a spine problem, so it will take away some of the repetitive tasks and enable me to explore things I don't have time to do with a bad back.

Attach your MPC so we can get a better idea.
I'll also send you a PM.
AskBud

Walker Sky Ranch
04-20-2010, 07:05 PM
Hello CW Fans
I love the pattern store, but do tell me the difference between the try and buy options for a pattern.
Yes, I know I can click the "try" and download the art to see and use in my CW program, but is the "buy" version a higher resolution?
What keeps people from not just using the "try" and never paying?

Thank You for your time!

mtylerfl
04-21-2010, 09:52 AM
Hello CW Fans
I love the pattern store, but do tell me the difference between the try and buy options for a pattern.
Yes, I know I can click the "try" and download the art to see and use in my CW program, but is the "buy" version a higher resolution?
What keeps people from not just using the "try" and never paying?

Thank You for your time!


The 'try' is exactly the same as the purchased one. You can only preview the 'try' in Designer. If you attempt to upload an mpc to your memory card using a 'try' pattern, it won't work until you have purchased the license for it. Hence, no chance anyone can 'steal' it.

Walker Sky Ranch
04-21-2010, 10:25 AM
The 'try' is exactly the same as the purchased one. You can only preview the 'try' in Designer. If you attempt to upload an mpc to your memory card using a 'try' pattern, it won't work until you have purchased the license for it. Hence, no chance anyone can 'steal' it.

Perfect.. Thank You very much for your time !

easybuilt
07-14-2010, 12:00 AM
I also want to know the difference between the try and buy options for a pattern ...

You can try the design to see how it looks on what you are creating but you cannot carve it. It will show up as red, reminding you you must pay for it before it will work. When you buy it, it is yours to use and carve but don't share it.

CarverJerry
01-28-2011, 08:55 PM
I have a quick question, when I have a pattern opened in designer and there is a drilled hole, how can I open the window that shows the size of the bit? I got it to open once but can't seem to remember or figure it out again. Thanks

CarverJerry.........I'm having one of those CRS days...

CarverJerry
01-28-2011, 09:07 PM
Ok, never mind, I figured it out by double clicking on it and the window opened, but since I've got your attention on this drilled hole thing will the 1/8" bit do a circular interpolation to create a larger hole? Say I need a 3/8 dia hole, use the 1/8" bit, will it go around in circle and move outwards until it creates a 3/8" dia hole?

CJ

AskBud
01-28-2011, 09:12 PM
YES, just type in the diameter you want.
AskBud

Ike
01-28-2011, 09:20 PM
I have a quick question, when I have a pattern opened in designer and there is a drilled hole, how can I open the window that shows the size of the bit? I got it to open once but can't seem to remember or figure it out again. Thanks

CarverJerry.........I'm having one of those CRS days...

Lol I call it sometimers disease!

Ike

Kenm810
01-31-2011, 05:49 PM
Question - ?

I still see 1 or 2 Posts near every day with an Attached file (Picture, Pattern, or Mpc) that will not open,
is it caused by the way its been uploaded/Posted/Sent, or the way I Receive/View/Open it ???

lynnfrwd
01-31-2011, 05:55 PM
I see it just fine, so I don't know....

I take it there's no consistency in the the file type...not only jpg or only ptn? What operating system are you using?

I'm shooting in the dark on why...

dbfletcher
01-31-2011, 06:09 PM
I see it just fine, so I don't know....

I take it there's no consistency in the the file type...not only jpg or only ptn? What operating system are you using?

I'm shooting in the dark on why...


I get the same message and since it is a vBullitin message, it looks like it is a server side issue and not a client side. I still think it is the way they are "attaching" the files.

Kenm810
01-31-2011, 06:40 PM
I've been getting the same Message on two different Pc's
one with XL Pro Plus and the other with Windows 7 Ultimate
both running Ver 1.177

Kenm810
02-08-2011, 08:45 AM
Next up,

Not being able to open or read the posts in vBulletins
I can see the posted articles in Home The CarveWright Corner,
but not any of the fallow up posts

lynnfrwd
02-08-2011, 09:27 AM
I know. It is the SAME OLD problem. vBulletin Article posts cannot be viewed without going to the home page. I don't see that changing any time soon.

Kenm810
02-08-2011, 10:10 AM
Thanks for the reassurance;
I was hoping it wasn’t something I’ve doing wrong on my end.

AskBud
02-08-2011, 10:33 AM
I think this is where we should be able to see the comment text.
AskBud41967

Kenm810
02-08-2011, 10:39 AM
Yep, Thanks Bud,

I was hoping I could access the post and comment form the Forum page
with out switching to the Home Page. Little details like that drive me nuts sometimes,
--- Or maybe I'm just lazy!!

lynnfrwd
02-08-2011, 10:40 AM
This is a test.

lynnfrwd
02-08-2011, 10:42 AM
Evidently the replies have to be made from the HOME page, not this vBulletin article notification thread.

lynnfrwd
02-08-2011, 10:43 AM
Little details like that drive me nuts sometimes,
--- Or maybe I'm just lazy!!


ME TOO!!!! Still trying to figure out why some people can't see comments.

lynnfrwd
02-08-2011, 11:33 AM
I think this is where we should be able to see the comment text.
AskBud41967

Is anyone else having trouble seeing the comments from the actual article like AskBud is?

AskBud
02-09-2011, 11:46 AM
I think this is where we should be able to see the comment text.
AskBud41967
OK
I've solved the missing "Comment" problem in Windows-7. I'm using IE-8 on this machine.
I found that I had to go to TOOLS > COMPATIBILITY VIEW, and make sure there was no check mark.
Once I did that, the comments appeared!

On my XP machine, I found that I was using IE-7.
I bit the bullet, and upgraded to IE-8 and applied my knowledge from the statement above.

There may be another way to resolve IE-7, but I just opted to upgrade.
AskBud

woodchip
04-10-2011, 09:22 AM
new question... I just received my new machine and am trying to register it. there are some letters with the number and my brain must be dead but I can't figure how to type a letter on this number pad. PLEASE HELP!!!!!! t
THANKS
DON

woodchip
04-10-2011, 09:29 AM
Sorry, I found the answer to my question.

Don Olivas
06-12-2011, 12:52 PM
I just received my machine, and I was wondering what the best wood for it would be?

mtylerfl
06-24-2011, 04:24 PM
I just received my machine, and I was wondering what the best wood for it would be?

Hello Don,

Welcome! Congrats on your new machine. Be sure to read the Tips & Tricks newsletters when you have a chance - they will help you feel more comfortable with your new venture.

Use any wood you like** - I mainly use Select Pine and Maple...occasionally use Poplar and Oak. For fine detailed carvings, hardwoods usually yield less "fuzzies" than softwoods and require less sanding after machining. Open-grain woods like Red Oak may have a tendency to chip out here and there on fine detailed/raised/thin areas. Tight-grained hardwoods (like Maple, Cherry) are superb.

**straight, flat, dry, no warps or twists

Botchla
02-27-2012, 03:00 PM
I had a question about cutting 1/2 inch marine poly board (starboard) since this is mostly what I would need one of these machines for. Im pretty sure starboard is more dense than most plastics so will the bit get hot or is it safe to use?

Thanks

Rob Mulgrew
02-11-2013, 05:57 PM
Why are carves taking so much longer than they used to? When uploading a project the estimated time used to be almost right on with actual carving time but lately it has been taking longer than the estimated carving time to complete a project. Some times the truck zips back and forth super fast and sometimes it crawls. Any ideas? I have about 85hrs on my machine. Thanks
Rob

fwharris
02-11-2013, 08:19 PM
Why are carves taking so much longer than they used to? When uploading a project the estimated time used to be almost right on with actual carving time but lately it has been taking longer than the estimated carving time to complete a project. Some times the truck zips back and forth super fast and sometimes it crawls. Any ideas? I have about 85hrs on my machine. Thanks
Rob

Give us an example of "so much longer".

chief2007
02-11-2013, 08:43 PM
Could be that the default setting has been changed from default to optimal.

With that you may want to carve the project on normal or best, but it actually carves with the optimal setting and making the carving take more time to complete.

Rob Mulgrew
02-11-2013, 08:45 PM
Anywhere from 10-45 minutes. I have been thinking about this and I suppose another factor can be the inconsistant temperature. Its really cold where I live and I heat up the shop and get the carve going. I dont like to run the heat non stop so I shut the heat off when the room reaches about 55 degrees and go in the house while it carves. It doesnt hold that temperature but I figured as long as the machine was warmed up it should be ok, but maybe thats an issue?

fwharris
02-11-2013, 09:06 PM
Temp could be a factor but I also think the clock keeps running if it is sitting waiting for a bit change. Could that be part of your time calculation?

Rob Mulgrew
02-11-2013, 10:31 PM
I just finished a carve right now. When I uploaded it the appx. completion time was 3hrs & 23min. The actual carve time was 3hrs & 41min with no bit changes. This one was not that bad but it is fairly warm now considering what it usually is. Some times I sit there and watch the truck moving so slow and some times it flies. Probably just an enviornment/atosphere problem. I checked the machine and it is still set at default for quality. Not a big issue at this time but I am just trying learn my machine inside/out and what causes different issues.
Thanks,
Rob

Give us an example of "so much longer".

fwharris
02-11-2013, 10:41 PM
Rob,

Thanks for the carve time info. Part of it could be the low temp. causing things to move a bit slower.

I am not totally sure when the clock starts for the carve time but I believe it is as soon as you select the project you want to carve. The "default" setting on the machine means it will use the quality setting that is applied when the project is uploaded to the card.

mtylerfl
02-13-2013, 07:31 AM
I've not noticed any discrepencies from the estimated time vs. the actual time...it's always been right on, as far as I can tell. So I don't know what would cause the time difference you are experiencing.

Also, it is my understanding that the quality setting at the machine has no affect at all when running projects. The quality settings at the machine itself apply to machine functions only (not projects run from the memory card). For example, machine functions would include bevel and miter cuts - things totally separate from running actual MPC projects from the memory card. The machine quality setting applies when running "machine only" tasks, not MPC's.

If I'm wrong about this, I am sure someone from LHR/CarveWright will let me/us know.

mtylerfl
02-13-2013, 07:48 AM
I checked the Hardware Manual for C Machines. On page 22 it states the following about the machine quality settings...

"1) Quality (Default, Draft, Normal, Best)
The Quality menu option lets the user change the carving quality of
the project on the fly. Selecting default will use the settings selected
in the Designer software."

This statement implies that I am wrong about my understanding of machine quality settings. But, I could have sworn I was told those settings had no effect on a project MPC. Perhaps that used to be the case in the past...or, perhaps the person that told me this was wrong, too...or, maybe those quality settings really DON't affect an MPC project after all (but that would seem contradictory to what the manual states).

So, I guess we'll need to hear from LHR/CarveWright to confirm which is true.

RMarkey
02-13-2013, 04:46 PM
Also, it is my understanding that the quality setting at the machine has no affect at all when running projects.

No, you can select the quality of a project on the fly... it's option 0-1.

The designer software saves the full detail of the project when you write it to a card -- the machine itself changes the quality of the carve.

A project is saved with a "quality" flag, though, so when option 0-1 is set to <<default>>, it uses the quality embedded in the project file.

mtylerfl
02-13-2013, 05:41 PM
Thank you, Metallus! (Floyd had it right - I did not!)

seathis
02-14-2013, 09:08 AM
Soooooo, you guys may have helped me with a problem I've been having. My cuts have looked terrible lately and I couldn't figure out why. Looked at option 01 and it was set on 'draft'. Are you saying even if I programed in 'best' in Designer, because the machine was set on draft instead of default, it would cut draft? How about the estimated time? If it says 1:50 on best, it still takes about 1:50 to carve.

mtylerfl
02-14-2013, 04:19 PM
Soooooo, you guys may have helped me with a problem I've been having. My cuts have looked terrible lately and I couldn't figure out why. Looked at option 01 and it was set on 'draft'. Are you saying even if I programed in 'best' in Designer, because the machine was set on draft instead of default, it would cut draft? How about the estimated time? If it says 1:50 on best, it still takes about 1:50 to carve.

Beats me! :) I'm still trying to get used to the idea that the machine quality settings actually have an affect upon running an MPC (still could swear I was told otherwise, years ago).

Anyway, based upon Metallus' official confirmation that machine settings DO have an affect (other than the "default" quality setting at the machine), my guess would be YES - changing the setting at the machine would result in an "override" of the quality setting you chose when uploading to your memory card. This would change the quality and time estimate of the project if the two settings are different.

Old Post
02-19-2014, 07:28 AM
Hey fellas..... when making a sled do I need to add the thickness of the sled to the thickness of the board when programming board size..?

dbfletcher
02-19-2014, 07:44 AM
You typically would NOT want to do that. If you add the thickness of the sled to you project board, for any cutouts you have in your project, it will try to cut thru the sled as well.

mtylerfl
02-19-2014, 07:55 AM
Hey fellas..... when making a sled do I need to add the thickness of the sled to the thickness of the board when programming board size..?

Please read the following Tips & Tricks PDF newsletter. It may help you with the procedure for setting up your sled projects (particularly pages 4 and 5 of the document).

ISSUE 12 September 2008 – Designer 1.131 New Feature Highlights (http://www.carvewright.com/assets/tips/CarveWrightTips_and_Tricks_Sept08.pdf)

Stripes003
03-30-2017, 07:04 AM
Hello,

I created this account to post questions have my questions answered and look at user's attached pictures so I can see the capabilities of the machine.

I have created this account and email verified it but the system won't let me do what I need to do.

I cannot post new threads I can only post replies like this. I cannot post or view attachments.
I thought there was some setting I needed to check off in my profile settings but I don't have access to that either.

Please help me out how do I get forum permissions to allow me to use this forum and community?

Thanks

Joey_Womack
06-06-2021, 09:49 AM
I'm in the same boat. Any help would be appreciated. I cannot post or trade/post patterns on the pattern sharing areas. It really limits the overall usefulness of even being a part of this site if I can effectively do nothing on here. I don't even have the permissions to post my own question, I had to use the reply function to get this up. Any help getting this sorted out would be appreciated.



Hello,

I created this account to post questions have my questions answered and look at user's attached pictures so I can see the capabilities of the machine.

I have created this account and email verified it but the system won't let me do what I need to do.

I cannot post new threads I can only post replies like this. I cannot post or view attachments.
I thought there was some setting I needed to check off in my profile settings but I don't have access to that either.

Please help me out how do I get forum permissions to allow me to use this forum and community?

Thanks

oscarl48
10-19-2021, 03:13 PM
Hi,

For about the last two weeks I have been unable to post any pictures. Has something changed on the forum?

Thanks,
Oscar