Has anyone tried this?

[crazyhammer]

I was wondering if anyone has tried to soak there project board with a thinned urethane or some other finish that would allow the board to soak in the resin and harden before carving. I was reading an article a while back where they were using varnish and thinning it drastically so that it would penetrate a cutting board. I would try it but I've been waiting 4 weeks for a z truck replacement so I thought I would ask. I was curious if this would allow you to get a better finish straight out of the machine.

Oops , I think this may be in the wrong area?

[Digitalwoodshop]

Same effect using Sanding Sealer before you carve.

AL

[Ike]

I was wondering if anyone has tried to soak there project board with a thinned urethane or some other finish that would allow the board to soak in the resin and harden before carving. I was reading an article a while back where they were using varnish and thinning it drastically so that it would penetrate a cutting board. I would try it but I've been waiting 4 weeks for a z truck replacement so I thought I would ask. I was curious if this would allow you to get a better finish straight out of the machine.

Oops , I think this may be in the wrong area?
What purpose does it serve doing this? Does it help it from chipping? Or in the finish process?

Ike

[oldjoe]

Mine Wax does make a wood hardener but I have never tried it.

[crazyhammer]

What purpose does it serve doing this? Does it help it from chipping? Or in the finish process?

Ike

What i was hoping to accomplish was a better finish straight out of the carve. I noticed when carving pine that the areas that were more dense with sap had a smoother almost perfect finish while softer areas were full of fuzzies. i figured if the board was soaked with some type of hardener that it would prevent fuzzies. It is just an idea and since i can't test it at this time I was hoping that someone here had possibly already tried something similar.

[Ike]

What i was hoping to accomplish was a better finish straight out of the carve. I noticed when carving pine that the areas that were more dense with sap had a smoother almost perfect finish while softer areas were full of fuzzies. i figured if the board was soaked with some type of hardener that it would prevent fuzzies. It is just an idea and since i can't test it at this time I was hoping that someone here had possibly already tried something similar.

I see with pine it is a porous wood and very hard to get stain to cover even. But if you use a finish before carving may effect the final finish?

I never worry about feathering I light torch them and blow them out with compressed air. If there are a bunch left over I use a brass wire brush. Any small amount will go away when you finish.

Ike

[mtylerfl]

What i was hoping to accomplish was a better finish straight out of the carve. I noticed when carving pine that the areas that were more dense with sap had a smoother almost perfect finish while softer areas were full of fuzzies. i figured if the board was soaked with some type of hardener that it would prevent fuzzies. It is just an idea and since i can't test it at this time I was hoping that someone here had possibly already tried something similar.

If you are using pine, I recommend using kiln-dried Select Pine. "Regular pine" will often have a much higher moisture and pitch content, and can affect the quality of the carve.

Of course, there are some cases where you DO want to use "regular pine", especially if you want the character of the knots, etc. for a more "country" look to the project.

I use Select Pine because it is so "perfect" it runs very well through the machine (flat, dry, hardly any pitch, no knots) and I am able to stain it to look like just about any wood I want.

[cnsranch]

Actually, in a way, it's the moisture in the wood that's causing the fuzzies.

When you carve along the grain, the result is nice and smooth - you're not exposing the end grain. It's when you expose the end grain that you get that roughness. If the wood were perfectly dry, although you'd get the fuzzies, they'd rub right off. It's the moisture that keeps them hanging on (Although I'm finding that on "optimum", since the bit takes smaller passes, that it virtually eliminated the fuzzies, anyway).

The more porous the wood, the more pronounced the fuzzies - the tighter the grain, the less fuzzies you get.

I have a bunch of 3/4" t&G ash paneling that was on the living room wall for 30 years. It's hard as a rock, and carves really well. It's also super dry, given the environment it's been in over its first life as a wall covering. What little fuzzies are left almost rub off with my finger.

Ant pre-treated wood has to be perfectly dry before carving - take a look at some of the threads re carving CCA pine - imagine how that would mess up the machine - the stuff almost drips liquid when you cut it.

Bottom line for me is harder woods (tighter grain) and drier woods are the best way to go.

**EIDT**

Michael was posting while I was typing - brevity is a virtue :)

[crazyhammer]

Thanks everyone for your input. I've been using the Cw for about a Year now and have made some beautiful projects. This was an idea that I was pondering so i posted the question. Like always on this board the people that are here have a wealth of combined knowledge and seem to always be willing to help with what ever comes along.

I've been using a sanding mop and diamond tip dremel bits for finishing plus like several have said a light torch really helps too.

Again let me just say thanks for your replies.