Pattern routing and cutting questions

[djarboe]

Just looking for enlightenment here... two questions.. nope, three.

1. I made an oval plaque. After all the carving, the CW asked for the 1/2" classical bit, and proceeded to do the oval edge. It was not nearly as deep as it looked in Designer. I just figured it was going to come back with a deeper cut on a second pass. Once it finished the first oval, however, it lifted the bit up, and made an air cut all around the oval, and then asked for the cutting bit. Any ideas why?

2. Then, when making the cutout with the 1/8" cutting bit, it cut through the entire remaining thickness in one pass. In the machine setup user options, however, I had set the machine to only cut 1/8" per pass. I think I've read in this forum that a full cut puts a lot of stress on the bit holder, etc., and to reduce the depth per cutting pass. So, why did it still make a full depth cut. Or, where do I set this?

3. Finally, the cutout mentioned above was off center from the routed oval, even though they were right on top of each other in Designer. It was off by about 1/8", and I had to sand the edge to match the routed oval. What can I do to get the cutout to match the routed path?

Clearly the machine is doing exactly what I told it... I guess I just don't fully understand what I told it.:oops:

[jcorder]

Just looking for enlightenment here... two questions.. nope, three.

1. I made an oval plaque. After all the carving, the CW asked for the 1/2" classical bit, and proceeded to do the oval edge. It was not nearly as deep as it looked in Designer. I just figured it was going to come back with a deeper cut on a second pass. Once it finished the first oval, however, it lifted the bit up, and made an air cut all around the oval, and then asked for the cutting bit. Any ideas why?

2. Then, when making the cutout with the 1/8" cutting bit, it cut through the entire remaining thickness in one pass. In the machine setup user options, however, I had set the machine to only cut 1/8" per pass. I think I've read in this forum that a full cut puts a lot of stress on the bit holder, etc., and to reduce the depth per cutting pass. So, why did it still make a full depth cut. Or, where do I set this?

3. Finally, the cutout mentioned above was off center from the routed oval, even though they were right on top of each other in Designer. It was off by about 1/8", and I had to sand the edge to match the routed oval. What can I do to get the cutout to match the routed path?

Clearly the machine is doing exactly what I told it... I guess I just don't fully understand what I told it.:oops:

Good evening!

One thing I have found with the router is that it is a lot better if I do it on my router table! The CarveWright works great for cut out and you need to set the offset in the designer to tell it if you where you want it to carve. I hate running the CarveWright for the router because I have found it to either be too light or too deep.

As for the bit plunging all the way in the carving, sometimes mine works a little at a time as I tell it to and sometimes it plunges all the way through.

Perhaps someone will have a better answer that mine.

Good luck
Jeff

[DocWheeler]

djarboe,

I'll pass on the first two questions since I have not had that happen to me.
The third one has happened several times however and I have to calibrate the machine to get it to work correctly.

Calibration instructions are in the manual I believe.

[wasacop75]

There is a wood working show across the border this weekend and Jason from the Little Red Woodshop will be there along with a rep from LHR. If you have the time, I would check out the show and ask them.

Just a thought...:roll:

[Dan-Woodman]

If your talking about the Overland Park Ks. show , I'll be doing a show and tell on CW projecks Sunday from 10-12 at the Lee's Summit Woodworkers Guild booth.
Everyone stop by and introduce yourself.
later Daniel

[jadnil]

I don't know if this is related to what you've described in 1&2, and as a new CW user I still have a lot to learn but...I think that certain validation actions are performed on the project by the Designer software upon a project save and or load. These validations invoke what appears to be automatic corrective actions (such as depth adjustment) that won't happen if you just upload your project before saving and (re)loading first. At least that's what I've expierenced...I'm sure the experts here have better ideas on it, but it's something to consider at least.

-Tim.

[mtylerfl]

Just looking for enlightenment here... two questions.. nope, three.

1. I made an oval plaque. After all the carving, the CW asked for the 1/2" classical bit, and proceeded to do the oval edge. It was not nearly as deep as it looked in Designer. I just figured it was going to come back with a deeper cut on a second pass. Once it finished the first oval, however, it lifted the bit up, and made an air cut all around the oval, and then asked for the cutting bit. Any ideas why?

Not sure without more details (and maybe a look at your mpc and the settings). Could have been an error when you assigned the bit and depth during the design process, or an error at the machine itself during the bit-prompt procedures. Maybe you accidentally placed the wrong bit in during one of the steps in the initial setup sequence. That would normally have generated an error during the bit swap when you were in the midst of running the project. You would have been presented with an option to continue or abort - did you receive any message like that?

2. Then, when making the cutout with the 1/8" cutting bit, it cut through the entire remaining thickness in one pass. In the machine setup user options, however, I had set the machine to only cut 1/8" per pass. I think I've read in this forum that a full cut puts a lot of stress on the bit holder, etc., and to reduce the depth per cutting pass. So, why did it still make a full depth cut. Or, where do I set this?

There was some slight misinformation floating around about setting depths via user options at the machine - perhaps that was what caused the confusion.

For the cutpaths to work in multi-passes, you use the Cut Out Control in the Designer software to make your depth of cut settings there (not at the machine!). The Cut Out Control settings are saved with the mpc and the machine will obey whatever settings you made. (read the Tips & Tricks, Issue 12, Sept 2008, for details on how to use that feature)

NOTE: I do full-depth, single-pass cutouts on all my projects now (I use Select Pine, but LHR has thoroughly tested the feature with all common hardwoods as well). I have never had a mishap and I really like the single-pass for cleaness of cut. You won't have any problems performing single-pass cutouts long as you have a clean QC (clean out debris during every bit-swap), and you have the bit/adaptor fully seated (check with a mirror to verify the red marks are touching, and do a "tug" test). It goes without saying that your QC must not have any wobble (a sign of a damaged QC)and no dimple marks on your bit adaptors, either! If you ever notice either of these conditions, replace them both.

TIP: Apply a feather on all your cutouts - that does two things - 1) during carving it allows the carving bit to "ease" into the carve area nicely, and 2) the feather removes some extraneous material where the cutout will be performed and often makes for a cleaner cut. (I got this tip from the inventor of the machine.)

3. Finally, the cutout mentioned above was off center from the routed oval, even though they were right on top of each other in Designer. It was off by about 1/8", and I had to sand the edge to match the routed oval. What can I do to get the cutout to match the routed path?

Probably due to a board tracking error - perhaps the sliding plate was too tight against the board (use two stacked playing cards as a spacer when you slide the plate to the board), or the board was not placed flush against the stationary guide, or board edge defect allowed the brass sensor to lose contact, or the board just lost contact with the brass roller "just because" (use a strip of masking tape along that board edge bottom so the sensor has more traction - that is a wonderful tip from AL aka Digitalwoodshop)