60 or 90 Degree Bit

[dsw3]

ok guys this may sound ignorant but ill ask any way. is the 60 degree bit smaller than the 90 and which do you guys recommend. my machine calls for 90 alot but i think i have been using the 60 if it is smaller please give me some insight on the bits thanks in advance

[Kenm810]

dsw3,

I use both all the time, you can set the depth of you cut when you use them for Vector lines ( like I us in my Drawings in Designer)
But not in Centerline Text where the depth is set by default.
If you use text and set it for "Bold" they both will carve a little deeper.
As a general rule the 60-V groove bit dose carves a little deeper and narrower than the 90-V groove Bit.

[GrammaPam]

For smaller text, (1 inch or less,) the 60 is my choice, otherwise it's the degree of bevel I'm after. I probaballly use the V bits more than any other bit unless I'm carving a raster design.
G.P.

[JVallario]

I just carved a 20 x 14 sign using Centerline, the 60 deg. bit with letters 2.25 high in Black Chancery font and noticed burning on every letter, even ones only 5/8" tall. The bit is fairly new and only used a couple of times so I don't think it is the issue. The wood was Brazillian Cherry.
The burning doesn't bother me as I will paint the letters however if I was staining them I might go with the 90 deg. bit. The letter depth was around
.330 with the 60 but only .188 deep with the 90.

[cnsranch]

John -

I've gotten some burning with centerline as well.

I also get burning on most any kind of wood when easing edges on my router table (with almost any kind of bit). Usually, the burning occurs when I don't move the wood fast enough, or let it stay too long in one place (usually when doing the initial feed into the bit, or stopping it when I want to end the rout before the end of the board).

I think that's what's happening with centerline. If you watch the bit, the machine will plunge the bit into the wood, sit there for a split second, then move through the letter at different speeds. Folks that use hand-held routers to make signs like we do learn a technique of "sweeping" the bit into the wood - not a straight plunge, and keeping the bit moving along so the wood won't burn.

This is something that the software gurus could work on, but it's my guess that with our wanting those crisp, clean letters and vectors, we have to put up with a little burning.

And as you already pointed out, they're usually painted or stained much darker than the rest of the project, anyway.

[Kenm810]

JVallario,

Pretty hard wood to Carve :wink:

[Digitalwoodshop]

I have used a V60 bit when the artwork was setup in designer to use a V90 bit. The result will be a T will look slightly like a flattened out Y with the top left and right edge being gouged and not clean cut.

As far as the burning, speed like said above which we have no control over and more than likely a dull or dirty bit. I have stopped the machine when it was burning with a V bit and removed the bit and cleaned it and put it back in. The result was no burning.

A Diamond Hone will allow you to dress up the bit edge.

AL

[JVallario]

Ken - wow I knew it was hard but had no idea it was that hard! No wonder it cost so much. Maybe I'll use a softer wood next time.

[cnsranch]

Ken, you cut off the jpeg - right under Brazilian Teak is concrete.

[Kenm810]

cnsranch, lol

:razz: I thought of adding a few like Marble, Granite, Flint, and Obsidian.
But I figured you guys would think that I was nuttier than I really am. :grin: