Quick question.

[jacanah]

I just got my CW set up and have a quick question for those more experienced with the machine. I'm setting lengths and widths for some simple trial projects to get the hang of the system. I'm using 1X6X24 poplar, more or less playing with my new toy. In the project design software, should I be entering the exact dimensions of the piece or the 1X6X24. It's not 6 inches wide, it's only 5.5. My first trial run didn't carve as I designed it and I'm thinking I'm throwing it off by using the exact dimensions. Hope I haven't confused anyone. Thanks to anyone that can offer advice.

[Ike]

I just got my CW set up and have a quick question for those more experienced with the machine. I'm setting lengths and widths for some simple trial projects to get the hang of the system. I'm using 1X6X24 poplar, more or less playing with my new toy. In the project design software, should I be entering the exact dimensions of the piece or the 1X6X24. It's not 6 inches wide, it's only 5.5. My first trial run didn't carve as I designed it and I'm thinking I'm throwing it off by using the exact dimensions. Hope I haven't confused anyone. Thanks to anyone that can offer advice.
The cool thing the machine will measure and adjust the width. I too may say it is 6" wide and it may be a 1/4" off, but the machine will adjust.

Ike

[Router-Jim]

Although the machine can resize, it's best to enter the exact size of the board in Designer.

Good luck carving. :cool:

Jim

[jacanah]

I want to run a second test run and since the first didn't run as planned, I want to correct my mistakes as they come along. I may have put too much detail into the initial project and put detail too close the outer edges. The software gave me the option to auto jig to keep from breaking bits. It then kind of took on a mind of it's own. I'll check back here often for more advice. Once again, thank you for your help. Hope I can return the favor some time soon.

[AskBud]

The more accurate you are with the width, the less resizing the machine will do. remember that you should make your project , at least, 7" shorter than the actual board you place in the unit (and keep under the rollers).

There are lots of Tutorials to look at. I have a slew, in my signature, below. Just click on the Download section.
AskBud

[mtylerfl]

I just got my CW set up and have a quick question for those more experienced with the machine. I'm setting lengths and widths for some simple trial projects to get the hang of the system. I'm using 1X6X24 poplar, more or less playing with my new toy. In the project design software, should I be entering the exact dimensions of the piece or the 1X6X24. It's not 6 inches wide, it's only 5.5. My first trial run didn't carve as I designed it and I'm thinking I'm throwing it off by using the exact dimensions. Hope I haven't confused anyone. Thanks to anyone that can offer advice.


Hello,

Yes, please do enter the actual thickness and width of the board (i.e., a 1 x 6 is nominal dimension...actual dimension is .75" x 5.5" <<<this is what you want to specify in your Designer layout for the thickness and width.

Also, please do read the Dec '07 and Jan '08 Tips & Tricks newsletters to avoid other common "pilot errors" and learn how to maintain your machine as well.

The April '08 issue teaches you about jigs...carrier boards/sleds/rails. These are useful for certain project applications that you may encounter in the future and also for reducing waste of material. I think you'll enjoy that issue as well.

[Ike]

Ok never mind!!! I have always designed a sign say 6" by 24" in the designer with the board being less then 6" and never had a problem. I have a sign shop and all my sign blanks are pre-cut from rough cut material. So it is faster for me to enter for my board size in the designer 6" by 24" 8" by 24" 10" by 24" 12" by 24" and up! Then I let the machine do it's thing and adjust it as it measures it. It still measures it anyway and then asks me if it is ok the width is 5 7/8" and sometimes it asks me if I want to cut the board and I tell it no.

I don't measuring every 6" board I surface to S4S and then when I am cutting along I will cut a board longer then 24" Sometimes my rough board is 6 1/4 wide and will give me a 6" board and sometimes 6" wide to 5.5" wide.

Plus I will use it without rollers to the day I die! I have made several 12" long and up signs without and problems. So I don't care to waste that 7" of material, it adds up. or do I have room for sleds for each size sign I make!

Well sorry if I miss lead you, I can say I have made several signs using my methods without issues!
Ike

[jacanah]

Thanks for all of your input. The machine did resize a little, lost about an inch of material on both ends of the piece but it did what I wanted it to do and it came out beautiful. I'm looking forward to learning all that this machine will do.
I appreciate your input Ike as that will be one of the major uses of the CW is in signs. I'll also be using it for designing pet memorial boxes. Our local vet offices are begging for someone to supply them with memorials, both in stone markers and hardwood boxes with remains containers.

One thing I'm concerned about as I'm watching the machine work is the drive cable from the motor to the cutting head. It seems to vibrate quite alot, especially when cutting close the the left side of the machine. I noticed last night that where the cable runs through the molding at the back of the machine, it seemed to be wearing into the cable insullation. I guess I need to wrap that area with a short section of hose to protect the cable. Anyone else had an issue like this?

[AskBud]

One thing I'm concerned about as I'm watching the machine work is the drive cable from the motor to the cutting head. It seems to vibrate quite alot, especially when cutting close the the left side of the machine. I noticed last night that where the cable runs through the molding at the back of the machine, it seemed to be wearing into the cable insullation. I guess I need to wrap that area with a short section of hose to protect the cable. Anyone else had an issue like this?
To me, this sounds as if you may be taking too deep of a cut, with that particular bit. I doubt that this is happening with the tapered carving bit, but rather, with one of the other bits. When you select the bit, you choose the depth, but you may also direct the maximum cut depth on each pass. i.e. A depth of .500 with a MAX depth of cut on each pass of .100. Ergo, the full depth will be attained in 5 passes rather than one.

Remember that not all wood cuts the same. If the wood feels "Heavy" it may take more "Light" cuts to avoid excess pressure on the cutter & Machine (my opinion).
AskBud

[Kenm810]

Hi jacanah,

The Flex-Shaft on my Machine would dance around
when I had carvings with sharp angles or quick “U” turns
with Vector cuts. So I added a couple of loose loops
of black vinyl electricians tape to hold in the wire F-S guide
Not tight enough to cause hot spots, but just enough to help keep in place. --- Worked for Me

[jacanah]

I'll keep that in mind. Wasn't aware you could change those perameters at the machine. Looks like I have a lot to learn. ;)

[jacanah]

Appreciate the picture as well. I'll do the same. I may be just over reacting to the vibration, it may be normal. But I'd rather ask than to have to replace.:cool:

[Kenm810]

Just as a reminder, when ever your machine does something you don't think is right or you feel is not normal.
Make a note of what the machine did and what it was doing when it happens.
A forum search will often find an answer for you. If not,
a quick post on the forum will draw attention the the problem,
and you will find several folks here willing to help if they can.