Tired of Changing the Quick-Change Chucks

[SAA3840]

Yes, I'm really tired of changing the QCs. I'm even more sick and tired of paying for them just to have them fail in such a short time.

I put a new chuck on my machine about 2-3 weeks ago. I ran a few carves and it's worn out already.
Did I make sure the red line 'touched' the inside red marks, YES. (I keep a mirror next to the machine just to check this.)
Did I 'snap' the outside collar of the QC to help get sawdust out? YES
Did I put a thin film of "3 in 1 Oil" on the inside of the chuck each time I changed a bit? YES
Did I also put a light coating of "3 in 1 Oil" on the bit adapter each time I changed a bit? YES
Did I use brand spanking new bit adapters? YES
Did the Quick Change chuck last any longer than any other QC? NO

OK, so I put yet another QC on the machine yesterday, Monday. I used blue lock-tite and let it sit overnight.
The bit I used today had a brand new, unused bit adapter.
Again, did I make sure the red line touched the other red marks? YES
Did I lightly oil the inside of the QC? YES Did I lightly oil the bit adapter? YES
Did I 'snap' the outside collar of the QC to help get sawdust out? YES
After about one hour of carving, I stopped the machine and vacuumed it out. While it was stopped I removed the bit, re-oiled the QC and lightly oiled the bit adapter.
After carving for 3hrs and 50min I again stopped it to vacuum it out and re-oil the bit adapter and the QC. The attached pictures are of the bit adapter, with three BB dents from a brand new, lightly oiled QC.(Each picture shows one of the three BB dents)

[Added much later: NO, I did NOT reinstall the bit adapter pictured below. I found an unused one in my bit set and put the 1/16" carving bit in it. I have not resumed carving yet as I want the red locktite to set before I fire it up. I'll run it tomorrow, Wednesday.]

Surely there's a better way than the QCs. I don't care how long it takes to change bits, I'm going broke buying QCs and bit adapters.

[Jeff_Birt]

The point is not applying just oil, it is wiping down the inside of the chuck and adapter to get rid of any debris. The 'BB" marks are from not seating the adapter fully into the chuck. You lift up the outer ring of the chuck to **** it and then push the adapter up into it. You should hear/feel it snap. If it does not snap you have a problem. If you go ahead and carve then you'll ruin the adapters and chuck. Have you read through the chuck care guide?

[SAA3840]

The point is not applying just oil, it is wiping down the inside of the chuck and adapter to get rid of any debris. The 'BB" marks are from not seating the adapter fully into the chuck. You lift up the outer ring of the chuck to **** it and then push the adapter up into it. You should hear/feel it snap. If it does not snap you have a problem. If you go ahead and carve then you'll ruin the adapters and chuck. Have you read through the chuck care guide?

Yes, I've read all that. Yes, I wiped down the chucks and the bit adapters. Yes, I snapped the chuck collar to knock out the sawdust, then wipe it out and re-oil it.

I've done all that, in fact I thought I was going a little overboard trying to prolong the life of the chuck and adapters. Apparently not.

[Ike]

Yes, I'm really tired of changing the QCs. I'm even more sick and tired of paying for them just to have them fail in such a short time.

I put a new chuck on my machine about 2-3 weeks ago. I ran a few carves and it's worn out already.
Did I make sure the red line 'touched' the inside red marks, YES.
Did I put a thin film of "3 in 1 Oil" on the inside of the chuck each time I changed a bit? YES
Did I also put a light coating of "3 in 1 Oil" on the bit adapter each time I changed a bit? YES
Did I use brand spanking new bit adapters? YES
Did the Quick Change chuck last any longer than any other QC? NO

OK, so I put yet another QC on the machine yesterday, Monday. I used blue lock-tite and let it sit overnight.
The bit I used today had a brand new, unused bit adapter.
Again, did I make sure the red line touched the other red marks? YES
Did I lightly oil the inside of the QC? YES Did I lightly oil the bit adapter? YES
After about one hour of carving, I stopped the machine and vacuumed it out. While it was stopped I removed the bit, re-oiled the QC and lightly oiled the bit adapter.
After carving for 3hrs and 50min I again stopped it to vacuum it out and re-oil the bit adapter and the QC. The attached pictures are of the bit adapter, with three BB dents from a brand new, lightly oiled QC.(Each pictur+e shows one of the three BB dents)

Surely there's a better way than the QCs. I don't care how long it takes to change bits, I'm going broke buying QCs and bit adapters.

If anybody would know how to change a QC it is you. They has to be something else I wish I could tell you and really wish LHR that should know could tell you.

When is the last time you changed your flex cable? The other thought has anyone suggested change the Z truck assembly, the back plate etc.

Something isn't seating right if a you are getting the BB marks with a new holder. So I wonder if the end of your flex cable is chewed up making it vibrate.

Ike

[SAA3840]

Ike, the flex cable failed big time about 2-3 weeks ago. I replaced both the cable and the cable housing. I've been lubing the cable with a light coating of white lithium and it's been running only warm, never got hot. There's really not any vibration from the machine, in fact it seemed to be running a little bit quieter, I thought.
I took the Z-truck off to replace the QC because I had trouble with the square hole in the shaft and my square hole tool. (That's all taken care of now.) The Z-truck is adjusted properly, no play in it at all. And like I stated in the previous posts on this thread, I did "everything by the book" in an attempt to make the parts last. Even to re-lube mid-carve while vacuuming. I bought a small air gun to blow out the QC, and that didn't seem to help. I'm at wits end here.
If someone were to market a "router-type chuck" for this machine, I'd buy it.

[Dyna Rider]

Surely there's a better way than the QCs. I don't care how long it takes to change bits, I'm going broke buying QCs and bit adapters.

http://http://forum.carvewright.com/showthread.php?p=78052#post78052 (http://forum.carvewright.com/showthread.php?p=78052#post78052)

"Eliminator RC quick change chuck",

[liquidguitars]

This is just to quick for a bit adapter and QC to go south, the dents are very deep. what are you cutting and could we see the project you are working on when the QC failed?

also what firmware are you using.

LG

[SAA3840]

I was carving oak, and I've attached a copy of the mpc I was carving on at the time. The firmware I'm using is 1.132.06784. Whatever version that is.

[liquidguitars]

SAA3840,

I just looked at your MPC and see a red flag with subtractive merging "center cut out"


if you get a chance take a photo of your carving bit and post it for us. Could be the caving bit is cutting to deep DOC and forcing the QC out of tolerance.

LG

[brdad]

SAA3840,

I just looked at your MPC and see a red flag with subtractive merging "center cut out"


if you get a chance take a photo of your carving bit and post it for us. Could be the caving bit is cutting to deep DOC and forcing the QC out of tolerance.

LG

Can you explain this? I'd hate to have it happen to me. Looking at the project, the board is only .75" deep and the deepest part of the carve I can see is .348". I've got a good sized carving starting today or tomorrow that's .382" at it's deepest.

[Amonaug]

When replacing the QC are you cleaning the threads on the spindle of any reside loctite? Is the QC fully screwed onto to the spindle?

If it's not this can leave enough play between the adapter and QC to get worse as time goes on and in a very short time.

[liquidguitars]

Can you explain this? I'd hate to have it happen to me. Looking at the project, the board is only .75" deep and the deepest part of the carve I can see is .348". I've got a good sized carving starting today or tomorrow that's .382" at it's deepest.

the subtractive merge will cut deeper than the depth shown in the box. I always check the depth by changing the thickness of the board to see.

look for the subtractive icon "-" in SAA3840's project it looks like it is deeper than .75" deep. "first object in line one". regardless of the depth shown in the box as now you have an inversion.

this will need resolving before cutting as I think the cutter is running out of DOC.

If this is the case it will keep damaging the CW and spindle untill the project is changed.

A quick way to check the depth is to back off the board thickness untill you see the black space removed. see picture 1, picture 2 is from a member who had the same issues with his QC you can tell it was rubbing big time and not on the carbide flutes.


LG

[Jeff_Birt]

Just as a point of reference. My machine is 2+ years old. I've replaced the chuck once. From disassembling it I could tell the the wear was from my not getting the adapter fully seated every time. If your going through chuck left and right there is another problem. The chuck going bad is a symptom of that problem. Give the techs at CW a call and ask them about it.

Edit: I just wanted to clarify that I don't believe that it is not possible to get a bad QC. I think even on a new machine this would be possible, but would show itself pretty early. If your going through several then it is time to look for the root cause. Again, call the techs at CW they might be able to help you figure the issue out. It would sure beat the current frustration you are no doubt feeling.

[Digitalwoodshop]

And when you replace your QC you need to replace most of the bit holders as they both wear and installing a SLOPPY bit holder in a new QC will FLOP around and wear out the new QC....

I found that the QC lasted 4 times longer when I learned to replace the bit holders with the QC.... Your call.... Pay me now or pay me later they say....

AL

[Billions]

I too have had a few problems with the QC chucks, but mostly from the set screws coming loose within the chuck while it's carving, and jamming themselves in the chuck. Really lame that you can get new bits from Carvewright that are not ready to use without making sure you set the screws yourself with Loc-tite. Also, no mention of this in the manual as it walks you through starting a carve. In fact in the manual it reccomends NOT messing with the set-screws as you can strip them. I've gotten so burned by this (twice now) that I just don't trust the QCs that arrive in the mail. I re-set the screws and let them dry. I fully anticipate an insert in future manuals like the infamous 'Some flex shafts are shipping unlubricated' addendum.

ANYWAY, sorry got off on a tangent there! Back to the dimples in the QCs: I've had a few QCs get the dimples and show excessive signs of wear. I'm trying to narrow down what might be causing this in my case - 1) I'm doing fairly deep 4-6 hour carves in poplar (.8-.75), and 2) I had it occur more often when I would use the same QC all the time, wear it out, then move to a new one.

So, now I rotate between 2-3 QC, changing the QC each project cut, sort of like rotating tires to prevent repetitive wear in one spot that compounds upon itself - I see far less wear on each individual QC bit as it's being doled out across 3 QC bits.

I've had much better luck, and teamed with buying the Chuck removal kit and a few extra chucks, I've had less downtime.

Good luck, I totally empathize with you, these machines can be frustrating. But nothing else does what it does with this level of ease for the relatively low cost. So we learn to watch for problems and how to prevent or repair them.

I'm more upset about the set-screws arriving un-set.

[Wid T]

SAA3840 said in post #5 "I've been lubing the cable with a light coating of white lithium and it's been running only warm, never got hot."
I think this is the wrong lube.
Good luck
Wid T

[SAA3840]

Here's a picture of my latest bit adapter, with 50 minutes of carving on it. It started out brand new, never used. I took it out of my bit set (the 1/4 ball nose now needs an adapter). And yes, everything was lubed properly, the little red lines all lined up on the QC and there was no wobble anywhere.

Of course I didn't get the bit exactly at the same height as the one I pulled due to deeper BB dents at 75% completion of the picture frame. So the picture frame was ruined.

Regarding the depth of cut (DOC?) the 1/16" carve bit never had to carve any deeper than about .50", which is within its limits.

What I intend to do is call LHR and talk to them. I'm thinking I'll order a new Z-truck, a new QC and a fist-full of bit adapters. (I think I've got 5 or 6 QCs and about 20 adapters that I've already replaced)

I can't recall who asked, but yes, I removed all the old loctite before installing the new QC.

I do have a question for any of you though, who at LHR would be the one I should ask to talk to.

[liquidguitars]

Regarding the depth of cut (DOC?) the 1/16" carve bit never had to carve any deeper than about .50", which is within its limits.

Sorry not acording to your MPC. you are over .79" also your only showing the marks on the adapter not the carving bit and looks "from what i can see" is shorter than a LHR bit anyway. so i can not help you due to lack of infomation.

DOC is depth the "cutting face" of carbide on your bits.. so if your cutting 1" deep and the bit is designed for .78" your are going to damage any CNC in the process.


LG

[Amonaug]

Sorry not acording to your MPC. you are over .79" also your only showing the marks on the adapter not the carving bit and looks "from what i can see" is shorter than a LHR bit anyway. so i can not help you due to lack of infomation.

DOC is depth the "cutting face" of carbide on your bits.. so if your cutting 1" deep and the bit is designed for .78" your are going to damage any CNC in the process.


LG

LG I don't see anyplace in that .mpc where it CARVES deeper than .25". The cutouts are naturally .75 but that is fine with the cutting bit.

That carve region is set to .5" and subtractive but if you hover the mouse over any of those points within the carve region the depth doesn't get deeper than .327" in the cups of the design.

Now from what I can see of the bit he is holding it certainly looks shorter than a normal CW 1/16" carving bit.

[Digitalwoodshop]

Here's a picture of my latest bit adapter, with 50 minutes of carving on it. It started out brand new, never used. I took it out of my bit set (the 1/4 ball nose now needs an adapter). And yes, everything was lubed properly, the little red lines all lined up on the QC and there was no wobble anywhere.

Of course I didn't get the bit exactly at the same height as the one I pulled due to deeper BB dents at 75% completion of the picture frame. So the picture frame was ruined.

Regarding the depth of cut (DOC?) the 1/16" carve bit never had to carve any deeper than about .50", which is within its limits.

What I intend to do is call LHR and talk to them. I'm thinking I'll order a new Z-truck, a new QC and a fist-full of bit adapters. (I think I've got 5 or 6 QCs and about 20 adapters that I've already replaced)

I can't recall who asked, but yes, I removed all the old loctite before installing the new QC.

I do have a question for any of you though, who at LHR would be the one I should ask to talk to.


This backs up my RANT on a SOAP BOX that when you replace your QC because of BB marks you might as well replace ALL WORN Bit HOLDERS. In this case the BAD QC destroyed a NEW Bit Holder in 50 minutes of carving. It works both ways.....

Putting a BB mark BAD Bit holder in a NEW QC will FLOP around and destroy the QC.....

AL

[liquidguitars]

LG I don't see anyplace in that .mpc where it CARVES deeper than .25". The cutouts are naturally .75 but that is fine with the cutting bit.

That carve region is set to .5" and subtractive but if you hover the mouse over any of those points within the carve region the depth doesn't get deeper than .327" in the cups of the design.

Now from what I can see of the bit he is holding it certainly looks shorter than a normal CW 1/16" carving bit.


you could be right, I am having a hard time understanding his MPC like i said, and the subtractive could not be the prob however it has been a issue on other mpc's warping QC's see photo 2.

The DOC of the bit still could be the anser but we would need see photos.

LG

[mtylerfl]

I was carving oak, and I've attached a copy of the mpc I was carving on at the time. The firmware I'm using is 1.132.06784. Whatever version that is.

Hello Mike,

What are the actual board dimensions of the stock you are putting into your machine?

Your layout dimensions are 12" Long x 11.25" Wide, so your actual board (or sled if you are using one) must be at least 19" Long x 12.25" Wide. The extra 7" length will assure your board is kept captive under the rollers for the entire project (to not do so invites broken bits/ruined QC's) ...the extra 1" width will give you 1/2" clearance top and bottom for making sure the rollers don't "dip" when the board feeds through and leaves room for your V-bit assignment around the perimeter.

Hopefully, the solution to your problem is as simple as just not using a large enough "real" board. Please let us know all the facts as to your board size you are actually feeding into the machine and whether or not you are using a sled - it'll help us to help you. ...and, yes, any photos of your board (and sled) will be very handy for us to look at too, if you can post some.

- BTW, I do not see any problem with the mpc layout. I think it's just fine, as long as your real board is made big enough to accomodate the design layout.

[Ike]

Hello Mike,

What are the actual board dimensions of the stock you are putting into your machine?

Your layout dimensions are 12" Long x 11.25" Wide, so your actual board (or sled if you are using one) must be at least 19" Long x 12.25" Wide. The extra 7" length will assure your board is kept captive under the rollers for the entire project (to not do so invites broken bits/ruined QC's) ...the extra 1" width will give you 1/2" clearance top and bottom for making sure the rollers don't "dip" when the board feeds through and leaves room for your V-bit assignment around the perimeter.

Hopefully, the solution to your problem is as simple as just not using a large enough "real" board. Please let us know all the facts as to your board size you are actually feeding into the machine and whether or not you are using a sled - it'll help us to help you. ...and, yes, any photos of your board (and sled) will be very handy for us to look at too, if you can post some.

- BTW, I do not see any problem with the mpc layout. I think it's just fine, as long as your real board is made big enough to accomodate the design layout.

You know after reading this it got me thinking a scary thing! But Mike when is the last time you check how level is your feed table? It may off on the extensions table or the sand paper rollers. If they are off level it could explain the extra stress on the QC. And if your is so far off it may explain why your QC's go out so fast?

This is just an idea and I may be way off base?

Ike

[mtylerfl]

That's also a good suggestion - however, my money's on the board size being too small.;)

[Ike]

Yes for this project but what about the other projects? Another thing the head could be out of alignment. Maybe more pressure on one side?

Ike

[SAA3840]

OK, the original mpc is not mine. I got it here on the forum. I liked what someone else had designed, the picture frame, so I saved it. I didn't particularly like the designer's decorations so I deleted them and added my own. There is/was a carve region on the back that I carved first. While flipping the board I noticed that there was some wiggle in my carving bit so I got to checking and determined that the QC had worn out. So I changed the QC.

I then removed the memory card and returned to the computer and reloaded the same mpc but without the carve region on the back. Thus the one sided carve.

Every project I run through my machine is seven inches longer than the "Board Setting" length.

Ike, I checked the level of my table extensions not too long ago but I can check them again.

Yes, the carving bit pictured is NOT a Carvewright bit. I bought it from one of the guys here on the forum. R.J.Justice, is that his screen name? Anyway, I've attached MY mpc to this reply AND the original I copied mine from.

What I'm going to do now is replace the Z-Truck and see if that might be causing my problems. I have issues with the square hole (not so square anymore) in one truck and the threads on the other one. Both of these problems were caused by me. The previous owner of my second machine helped me damage the threads by using something other than blue loctite.
LHR will sell the Z-truck shaft, won't they? I mean without buying a whole Z-truck.

[Ike]

OK, the original mpc is not mine. I got it here on the forum. I liked what someone else had designed, the picture frame, so I saved it. I didn't particularly like the designer's decorations so I deleted them and added my own. There is/was a carve region on the back that I carved first. While flipping the board I noticed that there was some wiggle in my carving bit so I got to checking and determined that the QC had worn out. So I changed the QC.

I then removed the memory card and returned to the computer and reloaded the same mpc but without the carve region on the back. Thus the one sided carve.

Every project I run through my machine is seven inches longer than the "Board Setting" length.

Ike, I checked the level of my table extensions not too long ago but I can check them again.

Yes, the carving bit pictured is NOT a Carvewright bit. I bought it from one of the guys here on the forum. R.J.Justice, is that his screen name? Anyway, I've attached MY mpc to this reply AND the original I copied mine from.

What I'm going to do now is replace the Z-Truck and see if that might be causing my problems. I have issues with the square hole (not so square anymore) in one truck and the threads on the other one. Both of these problems were caused by me. The previous owner of my second machine helped me damage the threads by using something other than blue loctite.
LHR will sell the Z-truck shaft, won't they? I mean without buying a whole Z-truck.

Do you always use this bit for most of your project? It may be out of sync or not true. Try installing it into a regular router or drill and watch the tip. If it isn't in sync the tip will wobble.

I used to make my own V-groove bits and to true them up I would need to put it into a 1/4 inch die grinder and with it running I would take it to a running bench grinder and grind it until it stopped wobbling.

Mike I am trying to help you i hate seeing you go through this1

Ike

[SAA3840]

No Ike, with the shorter bit in a new adapter and properly inserted into a QC I could see no decernable runout while it carved or moved around.

I guess I just need to call LHR for a chat.

Thank you to all of you who have offered suggestions on how to fix this.

Maybe it is all caused by something I'm doing, not doing or doing wrong.

[Jeff_Birt]

You cannot 'see' run-out unless it is really, really, really bad. The Only way to know for sure is to use a dial indicator. You need one that is graduated in 0.0005" increments (or better).

[mtylerfl]

OK, the original mpc is not mine. I got it here on the forum. I liked what someone else had designed, the picture frame, so I saved it. I didn't particularly like the designer's decorations so I deleted them and added my own. There is/was a carve region on the back that I carved first. While flipping the board I noticed that there was some wiggle in my carving bit so I got to checking and determined that the QC had worn out. So I changed the QC.

I then removed the memory card and returned to the computer and reloaded the same mpc but without the carve region on the back. Thus the one sided carve.

Hello Mike,

This is a good example of when you should absolutely NOT run a two-sided carve as two separate projects.

When you create a carve region on the back and have a cutpath on the front (where it is overlaid in the same area as the carve region on the rear), the machine must go through the entire project process in one sitting. This is because it automatically accounts for the material removed on the back carve region when it makes the calculations for the cut path tabs for the cutpath on the front of the board.

By running a project like this as two separate projects, you negate the machine's ability to properly account for the already carved Carve Region. It can cause the cut out part to fly loose in the machine because it will try to place tabs where there is no material left! Always try to run two-sided projects as one mpc to make sure you're not "goofing up" the works as far as how the machine makes its calculations.

[Kenm810]

Michael,

I believe your speaking of a project something like this.

[mtylerfl]

Michael,

I believe your speaking of a project something like this.


Hi Ken,

Yes, any project of that type should be run "all at once", not split into two separate projects.

By the way - that is a GREAT project! Candle holders? Love the design layout!

[liquidguitars]

Most two sided MPC projects can be divided into two separate projects with out any issues at all, but if a auto cut path is used you are asking for probs if you do. I am not saying that auto tabs are wrong only that manual tabs are a good way to go with 3D parts if you need extra control like I do.

Regarding the "auto tabs and auto cut paths" I do not find the need to use them in my projects anyway as it more geared to light duty hobby projects and probs like this can happen, but if you do it could be a issue like MT indicated.

the oak frame in the MPC is border line heavy duty and the layout is not working well and is in need of a re design.


However I do not think he used "auto tabs and auto cut paths" on his last project.

LG

[Ike]

You cannot 'see' run-out unless it is really, really, really bad. The Only way to know for sure is to use a dial indicator. You need one that is graduated in 0.0005" increments (or better).
Must be more obvious with the bits I have made? They were v-groove, shoot they are most likely not true. True enough for what I was using them for! Anyway just a thought trying to help Mike figure his problem out! There must be something he is using or doing different then others?

Mike, silly question, but you are using molly lube for your flex shaft? Then are you soaking it and then wiping it off before reinserting? I have read excess lube/oil will damage the QC.

Ike

[Jeff_Birt]

Yes, the carving bit pictured is NOT a Carvewright bit. I bought it from one of the guys here on the forum.


While I see no problem with using other bits on the CW machine in general it does require the user to take care to select a compatible bit and use it properly. The bit in your picture looks to be really shot and/or chucked way up in the bit holder.

CW has spent a lot of time and effort setting up the feeds/speeds on the machine to work with the bits they sell. This removes a quite daunting task of selecting the proper feeds/speeds for each bit your using from the user. It is designed to help users keep themselves out of trouble by trying to cut deeper than the bit is designed to cut. Since you have an 'off-brand' bit you have to be really careful on what you try to do with it. Does the bit have the same taper, rake and max DOC as the CW bit?

Just judging by the photo the bit looks too short and chucked up way to far in the bit adapter. This could be causing a great deal of your problems.




Regarding the "auto tabs and auto cut paths" I do not find the need to use them in my projects anyway as it more geared to light duty hobby projects and probs like this can happen, but if you do it could be a issue like MT indicated.


With lots of respect LG I would have to disagree. I have found that the auto-tabs works perfect for about 99% of what I do, the only issues I have had stem from intricate nested cut-outs which. The nested cut-out problem has been addressed in recent SW versions though. I have designed some projects where I had to 'roll my own' due to the application. I find nothing light-duty about it, in fact a lot of high-end CAM software incorporates similar a similar auto-tabs feature because it works faster and better in the vast majority of cases. The user has to make the final decision however which way would work better for their project.

[liquidguitars]

the reason I do not use auto tabs is that I need thicker tabs as my 3d projects are two sided and the need to cut thick stock over 1" requires that I flip the wood. simple simple tab work has been called outdated wow!

LHR seem to be going in a light duty direction with thin auto tabs and feed rates that would never work for my guitars that a bummer as now even more guitars makers are seeing the possibilities of the amazing machine.

http://www.mylespaul.com/forums/luthiers-corner/31485-carvewright-guitar-making-fun.html

stick with clear pine and your fine build a guitar and think twice.

if I only used auto tabs only I doubt I could ever of made the guitar that LHR owns today. Here is LHR's top out of unit
I make my own tabs on the A side and cut out the top on the B side keeping only .125" of the tabs intact. whats next the removal of manual paths too??? BTW if the power goes out I will still be able to turn this wood top into 2 projects using my system.

but what do i know about 3D and the carvewright..

[Jeff_Birt]

The auto-tabs will now account for any wood removed on the back side of the board. It raises the tabs up automatically. You can also control the number of tabs, their height ,and thickness.

But I know there are times that you can't use them, or to be more accurate there are times when it is impossible to tell if they will work. I did a thick two sided design recently that I needed to cut out only around the top half. I couldn't use auto-tabs so I left some hand rolled raster tabs on the back side and cut just over 1/2 way down on the front.

I know you do a lot of work that is far beyond what most of us do and I'm not trying to say that the auto-tabs are the answer to every problem. But they do handle most cases I have run into.

I think if we could see the tabs on the 3d preview it would help a lot.

[Amonaug]

The auto-tabs will now account for any wood removed on the back side of the board. It raises the tabs up automatically. You can also control the number of tabs, their height ,and thickness.

But I know there are times that you can't use them, or to be more accurate there are times when it is impossible to tell if they will work. I did a thick two sided design recently that I needed to cut out only around the top half. I couldn't use auto-tabs so I left some hand rolled raster tabs on the back side and cut just over 1/2 way down on the front.

I know you do a lot of work that is far beyond what most of us do and I'm not trying to say that the auto-tabs are the answer to every problem. But they do handle most cases I have run into.

I think if we could see the tabs on the 3d preview it would help a lot.

It would help to have indicators of where the tabs will be placed even if they are just marks on the desgin and not actually rendered. think I'll add that to the wishlist.

[SAA3840]

I've asked this before and I've yet to get an answer.

Is it possible to install the Quick-Change chuck too high on the Z-truck spindle? I checked the QC that's currently on my machine and it doesn't seem to want to lock in the up position (you can't use the word that describes what you do to the hammer on a gun, all you get is ****, so I call it lock in the up position)

And is is possible that the shaft itself is too high in the Z-truck. I have removed it and I thought successfully reinstalled it. The locking ring is installed on the top of the shaft but there is a small gap between the locking ring and the bearing.

I just want to cover ALL the bases trying to solve my problem.

[liquidguitars]

Is it possible to install the Quick-Change chuck too high on the Z-truck spindle?

I do not think so, it better to get all of the spindle you can. The QC should zero out on the shaft if you can.

as a side note, make sure you clean the spindel off first then glue and tighten the QC very firmly.

but if you pressed the spindle out i am not sure about the movement, as i have never tryed this yet.

http://liquidguitars.com/saltdot/needstobeclean.jpg

LG