Dust Collector

[Michael Anthony]

Dont know if anyone is interested or not but I found a really good way to get the dust and chips out of my machine, I started with a downdraft but was not real pleased with the results, so I went through the viewing window and got the suction within1.5 " of the cutting tip, and now after a 3 hr carve non stop ,little or no chips

[SteveEJ]

How did you make and attach the adapter?

I use a collector with a narrow/flat tip while the machine is running but I have to be there to hold it and move it around.

Thanks,

[Michael Anthony]

Hi Steve I have a few more pictures I will post, but to get it to work I had to cut off 7/8" of my viewing window, the real trick is to figure the exact area of the inlet duct and match it ot the suction area.19654

19655

19656

19657

[DocWheeler]

Michael,

Al did it that way too!

I'm gonna have to upgrade to something like that.

[Michael Anthony]

Steve that first picture is not correct, the wide sloy on the end is where I put a piece of aluminum algle 1/8x3/4x3/4 by full width that is for a 4" dust hose for a 2 1/2 " hose the suction slot has to be 5/16 by full width and again getting it as close to the cutting bit as possible is the key to sucess

[Michael Anthony]

Hey Doc you will be happy you did it works terrific!!! But you have to keep your dust collector pretty clean also:mrgreen:

[Michael Anthony]

Sorry for the repeat posts but I forgot to mention something else The first picture just barely shows it but there are two little wedges that are the key to holding it in place, you have to glue them in place.

[supershingler]

did you have to cut a little off the bottom of your cover to get it to come down far enough for the safety switches to engage?


kendall

[geekviking]

Have you thought about making a pattern for it in designer? Then anyone who wanted one could cut it out & have one, that would be sweet! :)

[Digitalwoodshop]

Very Nice work on the dust collector. Yes, I believe that this style collector is the way to go. I made my collector from copper circuit board material. I need to build another soon.

It is small enough that I don't need to remove it to change bits.

AL

[ChrisAlb]

Michael,

That's a great design.

I wonder if you added to the bottom inlet enough to wrap down to or close to the bottom of the steel shelf if that wouldn't a) collect even more dust and b) allow you use use spring clips that would go under the steel shelf to attach it so you didn't need glue?

Hmmmm.... I've never used a dust collection system and never felt the need to as I use my shop vac to clean it out every 15 minutes or so. All I have is a shop vac but if that would work, it sure would save a lot of stopping and starting during carves.

[Michael Anthony]

Hi Chris I dont have to use glue to hold it in place, I only used glue the very first time I put it in place ( on the wedges). If you notice the the metal housing where the cover drops against is tapered on the inside, well without the wedges the dust collector would keep falling out :)

[Michael Anthony]

Hi Al, Nice design I whis I had put my hose a little further back so I could open the lid with out dissconnecting the DC. Back to the drawing board:)

[SeaCapt97]

I think Geekviking has a great idea. I for one would definitely purchase project plans for your dust collector hood. No need to re-invent the wheel! Looks great! Nice job!

[ChrisAlb]

This is a quick (and rough) sketch of what I meant about extending the inlet down to the bottom of the shelf and using a thin metal clip to that swings under the edge to hold it.

Sorry Michael, I misunderstood about the glue. I agree that using Al's design and moving the outlet off to the side would be great.

Between the two of you I think this would be a great dust hood.

[Michael Anthony]

Chris your drawing is right on except for a few small details, as far as the (extend Inlet) goes I do have a short return there, but instead of a second leg of wood behind that I left a larger opening on purpose, when I use my 4" hose I have to have a 3/4" slot for suction, but if for some reason I am using my large dust collector for something else I change that slot to a 5/16" slot and then I can use my shop vac which has a 2 1/2" hose and I have a reducer to go from 4" to 2 1/2":)

[Michael Anthony]

Geekviking and SeaCapt97; I have some things I have to finish first( wifes Blanket chest) and when I have some free time I will do a scaled drawing and post it here if you dont mind waiting a little while longer???:)

[peter_l]

Hi Al,

How do you hold your collector onto the machine?

Also, did you have to cut the cover?

I have a dust collector for my 13" delta planer that I have been thinking of using on the CW.

The downdraft just does not cut it (especially using MDF) and I think the best way is an above table solution like these.

Here is a picture of the DC I am looking to use. It can be had for around $20.00 and hooks up to a 4" hose.

Pete

[geekviking]

Whenever you have time... Maybe I could work on the design for a .PTN for the forum after you post the dimensions :)
(Also, can you add the extra space you want for the DC on the drawing?)

[Digitalwoodshop]

My collector just lays on the machine, held in position by the slit on the bottom. I angled the front so it has a 3/8 inch slot at the metal machine cove cut area.

AL

[Ike]

I have a question I see the dust collector in the machine, but I don't see how it works? Where is extracting the dust? It looks like the Z truck would hit it. I know it doesn't but I don't see how it works?

Sorry for being stupid.

Ike

[peter_l]

Al,

Did you have the cut the cover? If so, what did you use to cut it?

I also see that there are two threaded screw holes on the black area that look like a good area to secure to if needed.

Pete

[Michael Anthony]

Ike is that a question for me or Al? As far as mine goes the collector goes back till it almost hitting the Z truck and then drops at a 90 degree angle putting the suction right where you need it most, within a 1 1/2" of the cutting bit I believe Al made his first but I dont know how long ago, Al how does your work on MDF?

[Ike]

Ike is that a question for me or Al? As far as mine goes the collector goes back till it almost hitting the Z truck and then drops at a 90 degree angle putting the suction right where you need it most, within a 1 1/2" of the cutting bit I believe Al made his first but I dont know how long ago, Al how does your work on MDF?
Michael, more for you since you made yours out of wood. I am still not sure how or where it sets.

You say it sets back until it almost hits the Z truck then goes down 90 degrees. How far down? And does it set above where the opening between the belts or just above the belt on the Z truck side?

Ike

[Ike]

Geekviking and SeaCapt97; I have some things I have to finish first( wifes Blanket chest) and when I have some free time I will do a scaled drawing and post it here if you dont mind waiting a little while longer???:)
I guess I will need to wait to see your drawings.

Ike

[Michael Anthony]

Ike ,Chris did a real nice drawing on post 15 of this thread, its a side view and real close to what it looks like, it wraps around the metal housing that the cover rests against, and the part thats insid the machine lays on that shelf you see as soon as you open the cover. hope this helps, and by the way I dont think you are stupid by any means!!!:)

[ChrisAlb]

I have a 5 HP shop vac with a 3" hose so I think to get the suction I'd need to make a pretty tight DC. Plus I want to have as much room for changing bits and get the intake as close to the bit as possible.

I'll have to work out all the dimensions and test to see what provides the best suction but it will look like this when finished.

Thanks for the ideas Michael & Al. This will help out a lot.

[geekviking]

That's an awesome design angle! That thing looks like it would suck whatever we were cutting right up! That would help immensly with corian/acrylic as it's so sticky & likes to get all over everything...

[Michael Anthony]

Chris now I like your design better, if you make it can I have some measurements?:) I am sure you know but just in case the small rectangular inlet must equal the inside dimension of your three in suction hose, if you make the slot to small you make your dust collector motor work to hard to big and you loose suction, just my two cents!!:mrgreen:oops inside area not dimension sorry

[ChrisAlb]

No I didn't know that about the inlet size but now I do....http://forum.carvewright.com/images/icons/icon10.gif

Been working wood for 35 years, computers about the same, pretty good auto mechanic, electrician and plumber too but when it comes to CFM, air flow and the like, I'm pretty much clueless...LOL

Thanks for the tip Michael and you bet, when I get it figured out, built and tested I'll post it all for sure.

[Digitalwoodshop]

Al,

Did you have the cut the cover? If so, what did you use to cut it?

I also see that there are two threaded screw holes on the black area that look like a good area to secure to if needed.

Pete

With my first machine I got a replacement cover from BARD Way back when.... The carefully cut it with a jig saw then installed it.

The second one, I just cut it while holding the cover half way open with a jig saw. Just cut about 1.25 inches off the bottom. The cover rests on the machine sides not the collector.

I still would like to make a Skirt type collector for the spindle but the bit plate makes it difficult.

Chris's 2nd drawing is more what my collector is. That bottom slant fin extends over the curved area and that is where the suction is.

I had a thought of trying some 1.25 inch copper pipe and cutting a slot in it and using elbows. And laying it right on the curved area. Me and my copper....

Midnight.... I can go home now.... :)

AL

[Ike]

Ike ,Chris did a real nice drawing on post 15 of this thread, its a side view and real close to what it looks like, it wraps around the metal housing that the cover rests against, and the part thats insid the machine lays on that shelf you see as soon as you open the cover. hope this helps, and by the way I dont think you are stupid by any means!!!:)

Ok saw both Chris' drawings still don't see where it sits. The second drawing really has me confused.... Where does the board you are carving come into play? I see the second drawing sitting what looks to be on top of the belt then pointed to the Z truck. Maybe it is the roller and not the belt and it is above the board?

Still what holds it in place? I saw on the first drawing a tab or something. It isn't clicking again sorry for my stupidity.

Ike

[Woodnutt]

Looks like it hangs on the lip of where the cover normally sits and I would assume also rests on the 3 inch shelf just in side that. I may have to start designing something like this myself the down draft helps some but the wider the board/sled the less it does.

[ChrisAlb]

Ok saw both Chris' drawings still don't see where it sits. The second drawing really has me confused.... Where does the board you are carving come into play? I see the second drawing sitting what looks to be on top of the belt then pointed to the Z truck. Maybe it is the roller and not the belt and it is above the board?

Still what holds it in place? I saw on the first drawing a tab or something. It isn't clicking again sorry for my stupidity.

Ike

Sorry Ike,

I did that sketch in about two minutes. Perhaps this one with the labels will clear things up for you. That is the compression roller resting on the board to carve.

The two strips of wood glued to the DC lock it in place over the steel shelf. The lower mitered strip keeps it from tipping up due to the balance of the DC and the weight of the vac hose. The upper strip keeps it from vibrating in toward the bit. Between the two the DC can't move.

To install it you would tip the back of the DC up and lock the lower strip under the steel shelf first and then lower the back to engage the upper strip. Reverse to remove. Hope that helps.

[Router-Jim]

I really like your design. I was going to suggest rare earth magnets, so I went out and looked at the machine and discovered the shelf is plastic instead of steel.

[ChrisAlb]

Chris now I like your design better, if you make it can I have some measurements?:) I am sure you know but just in case the small rectangular inlet must equal the inside dimension of your three in suction hose, if you make the slot to small you make your dust collector motor work to hard to big and you loose suction, just my two cents!!oops inside area not dimension sorry

OK Michael,

Based on your tip about the inlets opening area. A 3" hose has an area of 28.2743. Assuming I can make the DC 14.5" wide (same as my widest sled), that means I'd have to make the inlet height 1.499". Does this sound right to you?

It's a bit taller than I first envisioned it but it shouldn't matter because I have the edge of the inlet about a 1/4" behind the vertical line of the QC so it shouldn't interfere with the chuck even at it's deepest 1" cut capacity.

Also, (I haven't actually measured the CW yet as I can't get my crippled butt downstairs right now), I know I can get 14.5 wide at the board surface but if memory serves, I'm pretty sure I'd have to tapper it back thinner in order to fit within the steel shelf area and out the cover opening.

Will tapering it back to fit adversely effect the flow? Or will it actually help by increasing the flow speed?

Thanks for any advice....http://forum.carvewright.com/images/icons/icon7.gif

Al old buddy old pal...I know even wood will hold a static charge but wouldn't metal be worse for this? I honestly don't know but in trying to think like an electrician for a second here, I would "think" so?? :confused:

[ChrisAlb]

I really like your design. I was going to suggest rare earth magnets, so I went out and looked at the machine and discovered the shelf is plastic instead of steel.

Thanks Jim. It's a collaborative effort here...LOL

Yea, I thought it was some sort of cast metal but whatever it is, magnets won't stick to it.

[Michael Anthony]

Hi Chris: If my math is correct your suction opening should be around 7/16" to find the area of a circle multiply square of diameter times.7854 so 3x3 =9 , 9x.7854=7.0686 a rectangle thats 7/16x16=7. the inside width at the top of the carver is 17 " allowing for a 1/2" on each side for a wood filler and you have anet value of 16" but you could be right about farther down I dont know if it tapers in. And yes you want the air flow to taper in the direction of flow. hope this helps.

[bjbethke]

I really like your design. I was going to suggest rare earth magnets, so I went out and looked at the machine and discovered the shelf is plastic instead of steel.
My shelf looks like it is made of aluminum; you could easily mount a rare earth magnet to that shelf. It would make it easy to remove and clean.

http://www.kjmagnetics.com/proddetail.asp?prod=MM%2DC%2D42

[ChrisAlb]

LOL...so much for believing my AutoCad 2002. I drew a 3" circle and it reports the area as 28.2743.

The 7/16 tall would be much nicer. My original thinking when I drew the first sketch was about 3/4.

Thanks Michael.

[ChrisAlb]

My shelf looks like it is made of aluminum; you could easily mount a rare earth magnet to that shelf. It would make it easy to remove and clean.

http://www.kjmagnetics.com/proddetail.asp?prod=MM%2DC%2D42

So these "rare earth" magnets will stick to aluminum? I have a very powerful magnet and it has no attraction at all to that shelf.

No matter, I like the wood locking strips for ease of attaching / removing and secure holding. I don't know anything about rare earth magnets but unless they hold like a rock, magnets can still vibrate along metal.

[bjbethke]

So these "rare earth" magnets will stick to aluminum? I have a very powerful magnet and it has no attraction at all to that shelf.

No matter, I like the wood locking strips for ease of attaching / removing and secure holding. I don't know anything about rare earth magnets but unless they hold like a rock, magnets can still vibrate along metal.
The mount screws to the shelf.

[ChrisAlb]

The mount screws to the shelf.

Oh, OK, I got you now....LOL Must need more coffee here...http://forum.carvewright.com/images/icons/icon7.gif

[want2b]

I've been reading this thread and it definitely is going somewhere. Been using downdraft and unhappy, especially with wide carves. Was looking into using aluminum as I have a bender/brake. Regarding the static issue as brought up by Chris, if metal is used and contact with the metal shelf is insured there should not be any static as they would be the same ground potential. Thoughts ??
Rick H

[Dyna Rider]

LOL...so much for believing my AutoCad 2002. I drew a 3" circle and it reports the area as 28.2743.


I believe that’s the correct answer for a circle with a 3’’ radius.

[peter_l]

Folks,

there are two threaded screw holes on the black shelf. I planned to use screws into these holes to securely mount my DC.

Another option would be velcro.

Stick some velco to the length of the black shelf and it would be very sturdy, and easier to remove than screws.

BTW, the screws are metric, not SAE.

I plan to use a 4" DC hose to my dust collecter, so it appears I need about 3/4" to provide enough air for my larger hose???

Great, great thread.

Pete

[Michael Anthony]

If the correct answer for the area of a3" dia. circle is 28+ some square inches draw a3 inch circle and then cut out 28 squares of 1"X1" each now try to put them all inside the circle:mrgreen:

[jessrice]

Michael

dyna rider was stating that the area of 28.27 was for a circle with a RADIUS of 3", not a DIAMETER of 3".

When Chris stated his autocad gave him the wrong answer, it was probaly becuase it was really a circle with a 3" radius, or a 6" diameter, not a 3" diameter as a dust collector hose would be.

so i dont think it was a question of your math, but more an explanantion why chris arrived at 28.27

jesse

[BlueRocco]

Has there been any problems from the added weight of the dc's on the head? It seems to me that there would be a slight forward weight of the hose hanging and the dc connected to the head. It sure looks like a great idea, maybe even to make one out of clear plex, like the cover. Then you could still kind of see through it.

[ChrisAlb]

I was pretty sure I drew the circle with a 3" Diameter but it was early and only my first cup of coffee. I'll recheck it but I believe BOTH Michael and Dana are right.

BlueRocco,

The DC would actually be pretty light. Maybe a pound or so. With saw dust, moving air and plastic, static is a concern so I think using wood is the best answer. With the slim angled design, it wouldn't block seeing much.

[Michael Anthony]

Dyna Rider and JessRice: I wasnt offended not in the least look what happens when a bunch of well intentioned people put there heads together, we will all benefit from this, besides I am so old now the hot blood is all gone. Chris your drawing got me to thinking what if we were to do away with the bottom shelf alltogether and use the bottom shelf of the machine itself, just an Idea???:)

[Kenm810]

Aera = Pi x r x r

http://forum.carvewright.com/images/icons/icon6.gif hmmmm

[roughcut]

Not to step on any ones toes but pumping air is the same as pumping a liquid the more cfm you have the more load you put on your motor the less cfm the less the load if you put a amp meter on the motor lead and block off the 4" suction you will see a big decrease in the motor load so I don't think you have to have the same volume at the inlet as your hose.Also looks like you could bend a lip at the bottom of the shute to catch on the lip of tke machine then the weight hanging outside the machine would hold the thing in place I didn't follow the contour of the machine but hope you see what I mean

[AskBud]

Aera = Pi x r x r

http://forum.carvewright.com/images/icons/icon6.gif hmmmm
Also known in HS, in '54, as "Pie R Square"
AskBud

[ChrisAlb]

Everyone is right (except me)....see what happens when a guy opens AutoCad at 4:00am with only two sips of coffee??....LOL Didn't feel like looking for my calculator that early.

AutoCad defaults to Radius when asking for the input. I input 3" and it gave me exactly what I asked for....the WRONG answer.....LOL...Garbage in, Garbage out.

7.068 is indeed the area of a 3" DIAMETER circle. Which is cool because it puts the size of the DC right back where I originally thought (and sketched) it should be.

Michael, I had the same thought about the shelf but I figured having that step (where the cover closes) in there would create a problem so I stuck with a smooth air path.

Roughcut,

No toes in danger here. But I have to say that when I block the hose, it sure sounds like that old motor is straining to me. Never tested it with an amp meter though. Interesting.

[Ike]

Sorry Ike,

I did that sketch in about two minutes. Perhaps this one with the labels will clear things up for you. That is the compression roller resting on the board to carve.

The two strips of wood glued to the DC lock it in place over the steel shelf. The lower mitered strip keeps it from tipping up due to the balance of the DC and the weight of the vac hose. The upper strip keeps it from vibrating in toward the bit. Between the two the DC can't move.

To install it you would tip the back of the DC up and lock the lower strip under the steel shelf first and then lower the back to engage the upper strip. Reverse to remove. Hope that helps.

Thanks Chris, it clears it up a it. I need to print the DC design and go out to the CW and see what you are talking about where it locks into.

Ike

[wasacop75]

Ike:

Pie is not squared, pie R round
cornbread R squared

[Ike]

Ike:

Pie is not squared, pie R round
cornbread R squared
Exactly! I see I am not the only one looking and saying what?!! I really don't count using my fingers and I am trying to remember my geometry. I guess I skipped class too much to go to woodshop!

I am more adapted to electricity and wonder about static electricity? I think Jeff Birt's idea of screwing in stainless screws in the DC hood every 2" and connect them with copper wire grounded to your DC may work. Then again it may knock you on your butt if you touch it? Shoot I am afraid to vacuum during carving because of static electricity. I know ground yourself to the CW and vacuum away. Problem is I always get shocked! Must be my electrifying personality! ;)

I still want to figure out how to attach it!

Ike

Yum...hmmmm Pie!

[ChrisAlb]

Ike,

When you go look, just imagine the keypad side of the machine is clear and you're looking right through it. Then look at the shape of the shelf the cover closes against. That should get you oriented.

Keep in mine the sketch is just that, a sketch. It's not dimensionally accurate yet. Just drawn from memory of what it all looks like in general.

[Ike]

Ike,

When you go look, just imagine the keypad side of the machine is clear and you're looking right through it. Then look at the shape of the shelf the cover closes against. That should get you oriented.

Keep in mine the sketch is just that, a sketch. It's not dimensionally accurate yet. Just drawn from memory of what it all looks like in general.

I still thinking about pie........mmm Pie!!! I will have to get my lazy butt up and look at my CW! I don't know why I am worried about it right know? I need to get out in my shop, well my poor less shop and organizes it! It is a sad day when you divide a 30' by 40' shop to give yourself a 30' by 20' shop and the front for a garage.



Opps I off subject back to pie........mmmm pie!


Ike

[geekviking]

Someone say PIE?!?!? :D

[wasacop75]

Now its Cherry Cobbler:mrgreen::mrgreen::mrgreen:

[ChrisAlb]

You guys need a FOOD forum.

[geekviking]

I just need to get off my Viking behind & go cut some wood!:cool:

(Anyway, the only differance between food & wood is fw LOL)

[peter_l]

Ok folks, lots of talk about this over the weekend.

Lets see some pictures of a finished project?

Anyone make one yet?

I am getting ready to make a dust collector for my CW over the weekend. Plan to use 1/4" MDF.

Thanks

Pete

[twiceretired]

A real good idea, but what happened to the dust collector attached to the far end of the machine? It seems that most of the dust ends up there. With a blower attached to the exhaust and blowing on the bit, this should help blow the dust to the far end of the machine and help the dust collector. Just a thought, haven’t tried it yet. I know it wouldn’t be as efficient, but for the mechanically challenged it would be more practical.

[AskBud]

A real good idea, but what happened to the dust collector attached to the far end of the machine? It seems that most of the dust ends up there. With a blower attached to the exhaust and blowing on the bit, this should help blow the dust to the far end of the machine and help the dust collector. Just a thought, haven’t tried it yet. I know it wouldn’t be as efficient, but for the mechanically challenged it would be more practical.
I'm not against the "side vacuum port", but I've been trying an alternate plan.
I have a 4" downdraft, which works fairly well, except on wide stock (11" & up).
I've had some success with a small hose attached to the output port. However, I have had more success with a larger hose (1 1/4" standard sweeper hose) attached to that port. I tested by holding the hose above the Flex slot, and it moves much more air. I then modified a Draftsman's lamp arm to hold the tip of the hose. I have "locked" it into a single position close to the key board side. I'm sorry, but I do not have a camera on hand to take a photo. however, here is a link that has a clue of what I'm testing.
AskBud

http://www2.wcoil.com/~nharbison/men%20working.htm

[HighTechOkie]

Following Al's lead for a topside dust hood, this is what I came up with several months back.

http://forum.carvewright.com/showpost.php?p=45779&postcount=9

Has worked perfectly even on MDF. It does leave some dust impacted in the carve/cut, but the loose stuff floating around is eliminated. I'm sure an air sweep would complete this setup. I need to redo it so I can change bits without removing the hood.

Rob

[Kenm810]

I’m sure the front dust pickup systems like Al’s and a few others work great.
I’m also sure there will be many other chip and dust collection systems,
designed and experimented with by the seasoned and new carvers,
it’s the natural process of progress.
I’m Happy with my side vent dust system and air sweep,
it does exactly what I need for my machine and the wide projects and patterns I carve.
Plus like Most folks, I’m always looking and watching for new ideas to use with these CW and CC Machines.

[Ike]

I’m sure the front dust pickup systems like Al’s and a few others work great.
I’m also sure there will be many other chip and dust collection systems,
designed and experimented with by the seasoned and new carvers,
it’s the natural process of progress.
I’m Happy with my side vent dust system and air sweep,
it does exactly what I need for my machine and the wide projects and patterns I carve.
Plus like Most folks, I’m always looking and watching for new ideas to use with these CW and CC Machines.

Great idea Ken where does the pipe where the dust bag is attached go? I see it goes down into your table and then where does it go? How the noise reduction?

Ike

[Kenm810]

Ike,

The vent in the bottom of the Machine, the side vent, and the rear port (PVC)
all go directly into the upper Down Draft Chamber of the Cabinet.
The PVC tubing travels freely up and down with the top of the Machine
through the surface of the DD Cabinet.
There is some noise reduction, but it was not really intended for that purpose.

[Ike]

[QUOTE=Kenm810;78963]Ike,

The vent in the bottom of the Machine, the side vent, and the rear port (PVC)
all go directly into the upper Down Draft Chamber of the Cabinet.
The PVC tubing travels freely up and down with the top of the Machine
through the surface of the DD Cabinet.
There is some noise reduction, but it was not really intended for that purpose.[/QUOTE

So both pipes the side port (black) and the back port (white) replacing the dust bag both are attached to a duct collector? I don't see where you have a down draft? Is it under the machine where the long opening is located?

Ike

[Kenm810]

My DD Cabinet is a mobile self-contained unit,
I can roll it to where I want plug it in, and carve.

[Dan-Woodman]

Ken
I also like your air line system, but doesn't that red pvc air hose create static electricity?
later Daniel

[Kenm810]

Hi Dan,

Actually no static electricity at all, it even surprised me.
I've checked several times while carving different materials,
SignFoam, Cast Acrylic, Corian, and of course several type of wood,
but found no signs of static. Possibly because the pvc vent line
is not mechanically connected to the blower,
but slides up and down freely when the machines top
is cranked in either direction while setting up the machine
to carve a project. Also no Problems with compressed air lines so far.
I do remember watching the little wood chips and dust dancing on the
black plastic collar and muffler bag before I switched to the PVC tubing.

[Ike]

Ken, so is a vacuuming or blowing sytem? I would think where the dust bag attached you are not blowing it back into the cut motor? With the blower motor it looks you are blowing the dust out through the botom vent?

Ike

[Kenm810]

It's a Negative Pressure System,
it draws all the dust and chips down through all 3 vents from the machine to the first chamber,
it has twin 2 micron filters to trap everything in the second chamber,
then the 1200cfm of filtered air is blown out the front of the cabinet's third chamber where three speed blower is mounted.

[Ike]

It's a Negative Pressure System,
it draws all the dust and chips down through all 3 vents from the machine to the first chamber,
it has twin 2 micron filters to trap everything in the second chamber,
then the 1200cfm of filtered air is blown out the front of the cabinet's third chamber where three speed blower is mounted.

I sorry Ken I must have fried my brain on pain pills! So would it be like comparing it to an air filtration sytem ? If I get this and please bare with me, like an AFS it uses outside air pulling the air with a blower using filters on 3 sides .

Then where do the pvc pipes go? Do they connect to anything? If I remember you said they hang? I assume the chambers need to be air tight to create a suction? I see the filter, but is there a vent on the outside of chamber 2?

Ike

[Kenm810]

In Effect it is a an air filtering system, the make-up air (Shop air) is drawn into the machine through the slot that the flex-shaft enters the machine and the openings in the front and rear of the machine that your projects ride on the traction belts in the “X” axis, plus the slotted vents at the top rear of the machine. The air rushing into the machine picks up the dust and chips and pulls them down in to the first chamber which makes up the top level of the DD Cabinet by way of the slot in the bottom of the machine (1.), the white 1 ½” PVC pipe connected to the muffler port (2.), and the black 3 ½” styrene elbow mounted through the side of my machine (3.). Then the dust and chips are trapped and held in the second chamber by the twin filters mounted between the second and third chamber where the blower and motor are mounted. The filtered air is then blown back into the shop through the large opening in the front of the DD Cabinet. Even at it's highest speed, you can't hear it running when the Machine is carving.

[geekviking]

Sweet! :)

[Digitalwoodshop]

Very Nice setup. I like IT !!!!

AL

[Michael Anthony]

Ken : thats a really nice set up does it work on corian and full width carves as well as hardwood?

[Kenm810]

Yep, Softwoods, Hardwoods, SignFoam, Cast Acrylics, MDF, and Corian.
Most of my projects are 12" to 14" wide or on wide Carrier Boards and Sleds.
The air sweep I use cleans the dust and chips out of the carved patterns and off the surface of the project towords
the small amount of DD slot not covered by the project board and the side vent I added to the far side of my machine.
The low pressure air jets help lift the dust and chip up off of surfaces inside the machine while it's carving and out of the machine,
so it doesn't end up under the pressure rollers or in the electronics. http://forum.carvewright.com/images/smilies/icon_wink.gif

[Ike]

In Effect it is a an air filtering system, the make-up air (Shop air) is drawn into the machine through the slot that the flex-shaft enters the machine and the openings in the front and rear of the machine that your projects ride on the traction belts in the “X” axis, plus the slotted vents at the top rear of the machine. The air rushing into the machine picks up the dust and chips and pulls them down in to the first chamber which makes up the top level of the DD Cabinet by way of the slot in the bottom of the machine (1.), the white 1 ½” PVC pipe connected to the muffler port (2.), and the black 3 ½” styrene elbow mounted through the side of my machine (3.). Then the dust and chips are trapped and held in the second chamber by the twin filters mounted between the second and third chamber where the blower and motor are mounted. The filtered air is then blown back into the shop through the large opening in the front of the DD Cabinet. Even at it's highest speed, you can't hear it running when the Machine is carving.

Ah I see said the blind man!!! So the white and black pipes do not connect to anything on the cabinet. They freely sit and there is enough suction it creates a vacuum?

In chamber one is that air tight or because of the suction there is no need? Then in the 2nd chamber is that air tight?

I think I get it I understand the AFS I have one made by Jet. Am I still off base? I have an excuse yes I am dumb!

Ike

[want2b]

Have to hand it to you Ken, your setup definitely is efficient & effective at getting the dust/chips out. Clean up after a carve must be so easy not to mention the area clean. Thx for sharing.
Rick H.

[Kenm810]

Ike,

Chamber #1 is only open to the shop air coming through the machine
Chamber #2 only receives air from Chamber #1
Chamber #3 can only get air from Chamber #2 through the filters
The Motor and blower in Chamber #3 pulls the air through the whole system
then blows the clean air back in to the open Shop.

If you open the access door to Chambers 2 or 3 while the system is operating,
watch your hands, the doors will slam shut hard enough to bust your fingers!
You can take my word for it http://forum.carvewright.com/images/icons/icon11.gif

[Ike]

Ike,

Chamber #1 is only open to the shop air coming through the machine
Chamber #2 only receives air from Chamber #1
Chamber #3 can only get air from Chamber #2 through the filters
The Motor and blower in Chamber #3 pulls the air through the whole system
then blows the clean air back in to the open Shop.

If you open the access door to Chambers 2 or 3 while the system is operating,
watch your hands, the doors will slam shut hard enough to bust your fingers!
You can take my word for it http://forum.carvewright.com/images/icons/icon11.gif
Ken I am glad you are not here with me, you might shoot me! I really get the air is drawn through the machine goes to chamber 1 under the CW and to chamber 2 which all the air is being drawn from chamber 3 via the blower then the air goes back to the shop.

I see chamber 2 and 3 are air tight, but chamber 1 and the 2 pvc pipes my question have not been answered. The box under the CW chamber 1 is it sealed to the bottom of the CW anyway or sealed where slotted area under the machine? Or does the CW just sit on chamber one? Then do the white pvc pipe from the cut motor exhaust connect on top of chamber 2 or does the pipe go through the top or side and extends a certain length into the chamber? The same for the side black pipe how is it connected or how long does it the pipe extend in the chamber. Plus how do you seal the pipes with silicone?

Ike

[Kenm810]

The Slot on the bottom of the machine has 5/8" foam weather striping that forms a seal between the machine and the slot in the top of Chamber #1.
The black plastic pipe ends just inside chamber #1, the white PVC pipe also ends in Chamber #1 but is long enough the travel
up and down with the top of the machine without lifting above the top of the chamber.
Less than a 1/16" clearance around the plastic tubes is left to accommodate movement or vibration.

[Ike]

The Slot on the bottom of the machine has 5/8" foam weather striping that forms a seal between the machine and the slot in the top of Chamber #1.
The black plastic pipe ends just inside chamber #1, the white PVC pipe also ends in Chamber #1 but is long enough the travel
up and down with the top of the machine without lifting above the top of the chamber.
Less than a 1/16" clearance around the plastic tubes is left to accommodate movement or vibration.

Wow I thought the pipes went into the chamber 2! Would a coupler like you have for you side vent work too? Wow everything is connected to chamber one under the CW!

Very nice thank you for being patience with me.

Ike

[Michael Anthony]

I promised to get some drawings of my particular dust collector posted, after I got finished with my wifes blanket chest, wellI drew them up ,scanned them in to the computer and I even managed to resize them, but after all that I cant read them any more I am going to have to go back and draw them much darker. But I think I managed to make an MPC for the top plate which is all you really need because everything else is a take off of that, but with my limited computer skills I am not so sure of the MPC( red face) but take alook it shoul be 17" X 11" OA19892OOPS the first one is the right one the one that says cutout

[peter_l]

Thanks.

I am not sure if others have been worried about having to cut the clear cover to allow for this type of dust collector, but I was.

I was ordering some parts from CW on Friday, and asked about the cover.

It costs $25.00, and is called a "Closeout Top Front.

Here are the details from my invoice with the part number in case any else wants to order one.


MWM P1025 Closeout Top Front $25.00 1 $25.00

Thanks

Pete

[Kenm810]

Hi Pete,

That's the same thing I originally when I was planing to cut the 3 1/2"
hole for the side vent in my machine. I ordered one ($18.00)
"just in case I screwed up the one on my machine"
along with a set of Traction Belts and a spare Board Sensor.

[slcombs]

Ken Do You think The The Same Thing Could Work with Two CWs If The box Was Bigger

Thanks
STEVE

[Ike]

Wow I thought the pipes went into the chamber 2! Would a coupler like you have for you side vent work too? Wow everything is connected to chamber one under the CW!

Very nice thank you for being patience with me.

Ike
Lol are you through with me Ken! Do you think it would also work using the same coupler you used for the side port to connect the pipe on the top of chamber 1?

Ike

[Kenm810]

STEVE,

My first thought on that would be if both machines weren't carving at the same time,
you might want some type of divider mechanism to isolate or separate one from the another.
I would say it would certainly be possible.

[Kenm810]

Sorry Ike,

I thought you were making a sugestion about a coupler.
Not quite sure what you mean (like you have for you side vent)
The black elbow comes with a flange at one end and is screwed over the vent hole
that I cut in the side of the Machine.

[Ike]

The flange opps couplers connect 2 pipes together! I meant the flange running the elbow from flange to another flange on top os chamber 1 Same with the white pipe? Or does it did to sit loose in the chamber. I was just thinking it would be a better seal with a flange.

Ike

[Kenm810]

The weight of the Machine holds the pipes nicely in place.
I've tried not to use any hard point or mechanical connections
between the Machine and the DD cabinet, do to the Machines vibrations while carving.
This also help keep the machine noise level down.
I found that any hard point connections of the machine and the DD Cabinet act
as a a percussion instrument or drum like sound amplifier of the machine.

[Ike]

The weight of the Machine holds the pipes nicely in place.
I've tried not to use any hard point or mechanical connections
between the Machine and the DD cabinet, do to the Machines vibrations while carving.
This also help keep the machine noise level down.
I found that any hard point connections of the machine and the DD Cabinet act
as a a percussion instrument or drum like sound amplifier of the machine.
Gotta ya sorry for being so dumb and taking so long to get it. Great plan and I am going with your design. I need to get a blower now, I used to have one and through the years I think it was thrown away!

Ike

[Kenm810]

Call or stop by any Heating company that deals with forced air furnaces,
they often have used ones in good condition for a very reasonable, sometimes free.
The guy I got mine from says they toss 3 or 4 in the dumpster each week this time of year.

[Ike]

Will do thanks again!

Ike

[Michael Anthony]

Instead of watching the super bowl yesterday I re-made my dust collector the old one worked great this one works eccellent!!! I made some small changes, I increased the front to back to 11", this way I can now open the plastic cover without lifting out the DC. I put the 1/4 plate on top and 1/2 plate on the bottom, (it clears the metal lip) I extended the front lip to 2-1/4" and opened the slot to13/16" On post #90 of this thread is an mpc of the top plate (its the one that says "Cutout" Here are some pics19966

19967

19968

19969

19970

[Digitalwoodshop]

Darn,

Your's is prettier than my collector.... Nice.

AL

[geekviking]

I'm going to try and do mine in the next couple of days.
Thanks! It looks sweet...

[dominulus]

I had originally built a downdraft collector, but because my carvings are all 14" across the chips weren't all going down. So several month ago, inspired by Digitalwoodshop's design, I made an over-the-top collector and haven't had much after-carving cleanup since. See photos

TIP: make sure that the area of the suction opening equals the area inside the diameter of the duct. Also, try to avoid any right angles in your design, as they cut down on the suction efficiency.

[Michael Anthony]

dominulus: Nice design, I guess there is more than one way to skin this cat!:)

[karossii]

dominulus, did you have to cut the front cover to get that to fit? I think you did from the pic, but can't be sure with no reference (I am *still* waiting for my carvewright, now more than two weeks overdue).

I have designed a system very similar to Kenm810's, in part due to his posts I've read in the past, and in part due to coincidence - we must both have done the same basic online research, as my design was much like his before I ever saw any posts on this forum (just nowhere near as good as his, lol).

It seems odd to me that all of the 'good', 'great', and 'best' solutions involve modifications to the machine. I plan on trying the table with a muffler port, as well as a blast of air at the head, and without cutting the side of my machine at first. I hope that will be sufficient, as I don't plan to start out with 12" - 14" wide carves or sleds in the beginning. If not, I will end up buying an extra side piece and praying that LHR doesn't call warranty violation if I need any service (hopefully if I only modify the extra side panel, and return it to them with the original in place, if needed, they will never know?)...

Man, I can't wait for my machine...

[Kenm810]

karossii,

Why not try a little of both approaches on your DD Systems.
I've had success with mine while Al,Michael and Dominulus have had a good working design with theirs.
Part of the fun of these machines is a little experamenting and finding what works best for you and your carving needs.
Even today I can change mine back to the out of the box configuration in about 10 to 15 Minutes. http://forum.carvewright.com/images/smilies/icon_biggrin.gif

[dominulus]

Karossii, Yes I needed to remove a bit of the cover to fit on the dust snout. Since using it, I've noticed almost no dust in the muffler bag and have been following someone's suggestion to stuff an old sock in the muffler bag, which seems to extend the life of the bag (acquires holes quickly) and cuts down on the noise.

[MikeMcCoy]

The muffler bags don't last very long. I was going to order a replacement the next time I ordered some spares but found an old heavy sock that I just put over the outside of the bag.

[Digitalwoodshop]

If you trace the Cut Motor plumbing you will find the muffler has 2 sources of air. Air around the Cut Motor cooling it. I suspect this is where most of the fine dust comes from.

And the other plumbing sucks air from the electronic section near the computer. It is not a dust and chip collector in my opinion.

The 2nd picture shows the division of the fan chambers.

Nice collection of Dust Collector Hoods. I suck chips from the top and bottom on my machine at the same time....

I... what!!!!!!!:)

AL

[Dan-Woodman]

AL
That "other plumbing " your refering to was there to suck dust from a external homing flag back in the beginning. My machine had it on when I got it .
later Daniel

[Ike]

AHHHHHHHHHHHH!!!!! All these DD/DC systems oh my head!!! LOl I love it so many choices, I am going with Ken's design. Guess I better since I asked so many question!

I forgot I have a Rigid dust system the cylinder type that I am thinking about using the blower motor for my DD/DC collector.

Still I love all the choice, shoot I might use all of them!

Ike

[fwharris]

Karossii, Yes I needed to remove a bit of the cover to fit on the dust snout. Since using it, I've noticed almost no dust in the muffler bag and have been following someone's suggestion to stuff an old sock in the muffler bag, which seems to extend the life of the bag (acquires holes quickly) and cuts down on the noise.


I got that tip about using the sock in the muffler at the CW booth at one of the woodworking shows they were at. I posted this on the forum and a couple of the CW techs said that it should not be done. It restricts the air flow and prevents the cooling function of the air going through the motor.

ChrisAlb posted the tip of hooking the hose (1 1/4"from the shop vac to the adapter on the muffler. Do not run the shop vac. It acts like mini DC (no fine dust in the air) and does reduce some of the noise from the cut motor. This is also similar to what Kenm810 has on his DC hookup.

[oldfartjoe]

I'm fairly new to this forum...I have had my carvewright for about 4 months and am interested in making a "Dust Collector" for my machine...

Ken...I have looked all over for the black elbow with the flange that you used on your system without finding one. Would you be willing to share the name of that part or maybe better yet where I could find one? HELP

Thanks,
Joe

[Kenm810]

Hi Joe,

I got mine at the Wood Worker show 2 years ago when I went to see the LHR CW booth,
the Peach Tree booth and display was right behind LHR's.


http://www.ptreeusa.com/dust_ports.htm#387

4” Flat End Elbow Dust Port Is a great fitting that is fastened directly to your machine when space
is limited around the machine. There is no need for all the extra little connector pieces with this one!

#4234" Elbow Dust Port --$6.99

Hope this Helps :wink:

[oldfartjoe]

Thanks Ken...
You're a lifesaver, you have no idea the junk I picked up to make my own...or how ugly it would have looked. I like this soooo much better.
Off to order one or maybe two (my table saw could use this too)...thanks again,
Joe

[Kenm810]

Remember, you'll have to trim or cut the elbow
to fit the side of the machine :wink:

[fwharris]

Ken,

Thanks for the info as well! Like Joe, I've been looking all over for anything close to this with no luck. The pictures will also help with making the changes.

[Digitalwoodshop]

Remember, you'll have to trim or cut the elbow
to fit the side of the machine :wink:


I did the very same thing on machine 2 and the screw heads hit the main head as it cranked up and down so I took it off.... Now I have a big hole..... :(

WOW 120 posts about DUST..... LHR should get into the DUST COLLECTION market.... $$$$$$$$

AL

[Kenm810]

Hi Al,

yours must have been a bit different than mine,
I haven't had any problems with clearance between
the screw heads and the main head as it cranked up and down,
no additional modifications were needed.
It's been working fine since I put it in.

[peter_l]

Hi Ken,

I was getting ready to make a dust collector that went on top, under the clear cover.

However, after looking at your set-up, I think i like it better.

It does not imped changing bits, etc.

Question, how well does it work in getting the dust, especially with MDF (if you carve that)

I have a large 2HP DC, tried to use the bottom, but most of my work is on larger (10+") carves, so the bottom is blocked.

I am out of my warranty, so no concern over cutting the hole in the side.

Just want to make sure it will work for me.

Any idea, what a new side cover costs (just in case it does not work)

Thanks

Pete

[Kenm810]

Hi Pete,

What I did before cutting into my machine,
was to make a cardboard side for it
and held an elbow and vacuum hose to it.
Once I was satisfied it would work for me,
I went ahead and made a more permanent modification.
I still have the extra side I ordered,
just in case I ever want to change it back.
Also if you've been reading my posts,
I mentioned that I use an air sweep along with my side vent,
with your 2HP DC you may not need one.
I like to try all the alternatives on the forum before I commit to any,
my trash bin is full of ideas that went nowhere. :wink:

Ps. A lot of the materials I carve in my machine produces
a ton of fine dust (MDF-SignFoam-Corian) and the side vent takes care of it.

[peter_l]

Thanks Ken.

What was the cost for a replacement side panel?

Thanks

Pete

[Kenm810]

I bought one from LHR for $18.00 and added some other spare parts
I figured I'd need sometime or another, to save on shipping cost.:wink:

[Jim_colo]

http://i350.photobucket.com/albums/q408/Jm1980_photos/PICT1248.jpg
http://i350.photobucket.com/albums/q408/Jm1980_photos/PICT1249.jpg
http://i350.photobucket.com/albums/q408/Jm1980_photos/PICT1250.jpg

Picked up the parts at sears & a new cover from CW

Sorry for the large photos

[fwharris]

Jim,

Now that is another way to skin the cat or should I say suck the dust...I do not know how many times I have stopped and looked at shop vac fittings trying to figure out how to use one. Guess I was thinking outside vs inside!

A little more detail as are you using a D/C or shop vac, how does it perform, etc, etc..

do you have any pictures with the lid closed?

Large photos are a lot better also!

[Jeff_Birt]

Very, very clever!

[Jim_colo]

Hello
All I have is a 3ph shop vac. My 6hp shop vac needs a muffler. (it’s to loud)
I think I need to move it closer to the wood for better dust/chip removal. Going to try it this week end. Had to let the glue set.

What is the best D/C ?

Photo of the lid closed.

http://i350.photobucket.com/albums/q408/Jm1980_photos/PICT1254.jpg

[peter_l]

Yes, that is a very clever idea.

I especially like the way it moves out of the way when the lid is opened for bit changes, etc.

The opening (looks like about 1.5") might be too small for a DC but will probably work good with a shop vac.

Any way to get a picture from the top with the lid closed showing how close it is to the bit, etc?

Thanks again, great idea.

I wonder if anything is in the works at LHR to develop a "real" DC hookup for the CW.

Dust collection, is one of mu biggest complaints about the machine.

Pete

[Digitalwoodshop]

Excellent design !!!!

AL

[Gary Koval]

I bought one from LHR for $18.00 and added some other spare parts
I figured I'd need sometime or another, to save on shipping cost.(quote)

I'm interested in doing as you have with the 4" pipe on the side for my DD. I called LHR today 2/17/09 and was told that the price for a reconditioned part #18 (Closeout Right Assembly) is $39.00, new $54.00. The person I talked with wasn't sure if they could sell just the silver part of that or not. Could you have misquoted the price or are you sure of it? Seems like over double the price is a bit much.
Thanks,
Gary

Edit: Using Kens' number of MWM P1007 Side closeout panel- right, is still $18.00, and available. Ordered mine today.

[peter_l]

Hi Ken,

I took a close look at my CW this morning, and have a question.

When the head is lowered into the correct position for carvig, it appears that almost all of the 4" pick-up will be blocked by the head. I attached a picture and highlighted the area in red that looks like it blocks the intake.

Hvae you had any problems in regards to that, or did you modify this area too?

Thanks

Pete

[Kenm810]

Hi Gary,

I'm looking for Invoice right now, I'll post it as soon as I in the shop


Pete,

Nope the carving head never gets close enough to block the side port while it at the touch plate
or while it's carving, and none of the elbow extends inside of the machine.

Hey Pete,

I found it --- bought from LHR posted 5/12/2008

[Kenm810]

Here’s photo of the carving head bottomed out beyond the right side guide rail,
up against the touch plate, a spot the “Z” Truck would never normally be while the machine was carving,
and still not blocking the air flow to area where the port in the side panel would be.

[peter_l]

Thanks for the photo Ken, I appreciate it.

I think that your method is the cleanest and easiest to allow the DC to remain connected with bit changes, etc, etc.

Have you used the your CW with the DC without the air jet? Just curious how much a difference the air jet makes.

Thanks again.

Pete

[Kenm810]

I actually have been using an air jet in one form or another,
long before I put the side port on my machine.
And really don't carve anything with out it any more.
It dose a great job of keeping the top of the project board,
plus the carving itself free of dust and chips.

[Jim_colo]

Yes, that is a very clever idea.

I especially like the way it moves out of the way when the lid is opened for bit changes, etc.

The opening (looks like about 1.5") might be too small for a DC but will probably work good with a shop vac.

Any way to get a picture from the top with the lid closed showing how close it is to the bit, etc?

Thanks again, great idea.

I wonder if anything is in the works at LHR to develop a "real" DC hookup for the CW.

Dust collection, is one of mu biggest complaints about the machine.

Pete


top down & inside out

Yes it is 1.5" opening for my small shop vac. I might have to open it up to a 2.5" for the larger vac, to get more suction.

http://i350.photobucket.com/albums/q408/Jm1980_photos/PICT1260.jpg
http://i350.photobucket.com/albums/q408/Jm1980_photos/PICT1256.jpg

[peter_l]

Hi Jim,

How did you cut the whole in the cover?

I found a 13" wide floor sweep with a 2.5" connector that I am going to try and make work.

Thanks

Pete





http://i350.photobucket.com/albums/q408/Jm1980_photos/PICT1248.jpg
http://i350.photobucket.com/albums/q408/Jm1980_photos/PICT1249.jpg
http://i350.photobucket.com/albums/q408/Jm1980_photos/PICT1250.jpg

Picked up the parts at sears & a new cover from CW

Sorry for the large photos

[Jim_colo]

Hi Pete
I started by out tracing the 1.5" end using a sharpie fine point permanent marker, then drilled a 1/4' starting hole. To cut the hole I used my dremal with a Carbide Router Bit to cut it to the inside of the traced out line, then used a small sanding drum that came with the dremal to the finished size. Make it a slip fit! Don't try to force the connector it will crack the cover. I used epoxy to glue the connector to the cover. What hp is your vac? I'm going to start with my 3hp shop vac. I hope it does the job! Good luck!

[CraigBrownDesigns]

Simple and inexpensive!

[fwharris]

Part 1,

Jim's post caught my eye and got me thinking and this is what I have come up with.

I've got it hooked up to my 1HP DC that also has the down draft slot to the bottom of the CW.

I used the same nozzle attachment that Jim did for his. Had to improvise with other attachment parts. To the nozzle I have a hose coupling and then a angled round brush nozzle (took the brush off) then 2 1/2" hose to a 4x2 1/2" reducer to the DC. I took the inserts out of the nozzle inlet and taped them and a narrow strip of wood to the top lip of the nozzle to extend it closer to the board. Used the rubber part of the insert as a hold down for the nozzle.

I did a test carve area for 45 minutes to see how it did. Found it worked better with both the bottom and top suction going at the same time. With just the top suction going it would not pick up the dust that the CW blow port pushes accros the board.

[fwharris]

For the test I was considering of jumping out the door switches but did not want to take the top of and on. I ended up adding some shims so the door would still activate them in the lowered position and open the switches with the lid up.

Bottom line is I did see a big improvement in the amount of chips and dust or lack of not in the CW. My board was only 5" wide so the real test will be on a wider board.

Still undecided about cutting the door for the hose since the shims worked so well for the test..

[DigitalMatt]

This thread has been one of the most fun ones I've come across. I had a great time reading it and watching how everyone has tossed ideas together. You guys have come up with a couple of great DC designs.

As i get older, it's odd how Dad seems to get smarter <tic>. He always said that two (or as in this case, a lot) of heads are better than one.

Also agree with DigitalWoodShop and that Carvewright should sell a DC accessory. Of course, you guys should get a free one for all your development efforts.

Thanks again fellow carvers for a top notch solution to the dust collection challenge.

[jab73180]

matt where have you been? i need more videos.

[bernie]

you came up with a great idea. my wife hates all the dust and chips after I am done with a project.

[DigitalMatt]

hi ya Jab73180, thanks for the shout. i'm working on a couple new videos right now. I moved to california and it took more time than I realized to get my feet under me.

[Pratyeka]

I've finally completed my dust collector...
see the pics here (http://www.carvespot.com/forum/read.php?3,414)

[fosterdan]

Hello,
I bought a refurb unit from Deal Monger which arrived about a week ago. My first order of business was to couple my Carvewright to my Delta 50-760 dust collector. So after seeing Michael Anthony's design (props...THANKS!) I set out to make my own. I just wanted to share my results for everyone and for feedback on what I could have done better. I'll probably end up improving on this one. Mainly I was thinking about a seal between the acrylic and oak spacer to maximize "suction". Maybe any perceived leakage is negligible...idk. The 4" port is a PVC drain with the screen routed out/beveled 45 deg and epoxied to the acrylic. There's also a bevel where the airflow makes the turn leaving the machine. The nice part of using acrylic is I can see the head cutting. Too bad my rear belt folded over and as a result the idler gear stripped. I see rubber belts replacements in my future! Only had it for one week, 10 hours cutting and kept it clean. Head pressure was at 70 lbs and boards were planed. I blame quality control but oh well...I'm learning a LOT about the machine now. LOL
Enjoy,
Dan

[liquidguitars]

nice job!

LG

[fosterdan]

LG,
I just visited your website and WOW! Do you primarily use the CW for your work? You're a modern digital luthier.

[PCW]

Dan

I like the acrylic design for visibility. Good Job

PS:
I think we are going to have to put the dust hood on our Ron Justice wish list along with the rattle snake repellent and dog monitor. :grin:

For a current list, and to order custom tools and accessories Ron makes for the CarveWright, see [www.cw-parts.com (http://www.cw-parts.com/)]

[liquidguitars]

LG,
I just visited your website and WOW! Do you primarily use the CW for your work? You're a modern digital luthier.

Yes thanks! It's been dream of mine for a long time.. integrating 3D to real world objects.

LG

[AskBud]

I'm waiting approval, from LHR, to market my Dust Collector project via the Pattern Store.
AskBud

[Digitalwoodshop]

Hey Bud,

Since you Copyrighted the upper dust hood, are you going to send me royalty payments?

AL

[AskBud]

Al,
A Copyright is only $45.00. Your could qualify for its own,as you have a much different design.
AskBud

[fwharris]

Here is my set up that I copied from Al. I used a section of 4" aluminum duct work as it is much easier to form and bend. The rest of the parts are for a drier vent hook up. I took advantage of the flange/bend of the duct for putting the duct together by hooking it over the part of the shelf that sits right over the board. As you can see I used up a fair amount of gorilla tape to put it together.

[Digitalwoodshop]

Here is my set up that I copied from Al. I used a section of 4" aluminum duct work as it is much easier to form and bend. The rest of the parts are for a drier vent hook up. I took advantage of the flange/bend of the duct for putting the duct together by hooking it over the part of the shelf that sits right over the board. As you can see I used up a fair amount of gorilla tape to put it together.

Since I was the first one, that I know of... Or at least first one posting pictures on the CW Forum of a front loading dust collector consisting of metal, wood or plastic, sitting on the tray with a cut clear plastic cover attached to a dust collector to collect dust.

FW,

EXCELLENT DESIGN... I love the top 4 inch port better then my concept.

Good Job. Forget the Check.... It's FREE....

Let it be known......

I authorize anyone to copy my design concept for FREE and even the permission to market the design and idea in kit forum or for your own use.

There you go Bud, Feel free to sell my design concept interpreted by you for what ever you can get for it.

Everyone else, feel free to copy my design concept and profit from it.

Did I tell you I also Copyrighted Rain Water.... :mrgreen:

AL

PS: I will still be offering 100% FREE fix it advice on the forum, email and PM's....

[fwharris]

Al,

Thanks a bunch!!! I have considered taking mine to a sheet metal shop to see what they would charge to make this out of heavier sheeting material. The nice thing about doing this with alum. was I could shape the bottom to the contour of the top shelf.

We would be either broke or not able to run our CW's if you started charging us for all of your fix its input.

[Digitalwoodshop]

How did you deal with the bottom shelf upright piece, I cut a slot in my collector and lined it with foam to seal it.

Yes, taking it to a sheet metal shop would be good and I bet you would get a bunch of interest if you did like the ROCK...

I would buy 2 from you if you made a similar low profile design that lets you get your hands inside the unit to change the bit. My unit has it's downfall in it's design as it droops.

It worked for the ROCK... Let's try a interest post.....

:rolleyes:

AL

[PCW]

It would be nice if someone was in the plastic injection molding business to take a look at this. Would be nice to see a clear one piece molded part that fit like a glove.

[AskBud]

It would be nice if someone was in the plastic injection molding business to take a look at this. Would be nice to see a clear one piece molded part that fit like a glove.

Think I will go get this copyrighted right now. :-D
Amen
AskBud

[fwharris]

How did you deal with the bottom shelf upright piece, I cut a slot in my collector and lined it with foam to seal it.

Yes, taking it to a sheet metal shop would be good and I bet you would get a bunch of interest if you did like the ROCK...

I would buy 2 from you if you made a similar low profile design that lets you get your hands inside the unit to change the bit. My unit has it's downfall in it's design as it droops.

It worked for the ROCK... Let's try a interest post.....

:rolleyes:

AL

Al,

Are talking about the upright part that the door rests against? If so, my set up sits inside of it.

[Digitalwoodshop]

Yes, That is the upright piece that the door touches when it is down. I cut that bottom slot to accommodate it.



I for one don't think that a all plastic collector is a good idea and here is why...

My collector is made from wood and copper circuit board material held together with nail gun nails and foil tape. That connects all the metal together. I use a foil dryer hose and ground it in 3 places on the hood, hose, and machine on one end and 3 places on the dust collector motor and hose on the other end at 3 places.

Last summer the clip on the copper collector head popped off. What I saw was Static Electricity Lightning Bolts jumping from the center of the collector closest to the cutting bit to the 1/8 inch cutting bit. A flash about every 2 seconds.... It was being caused by the dust flowing through the dust collector hood.

I would love to hear feedback from the just plastic collectors made from vacuum cleaner parts.

This is why I believe that a all metal version would be better and a all plastic collector could lead to a static build up that could blow out the computer or other electronics.

Just one man's opinion at no charge.

AL

[Kenm810]

Originally Posted by PCW http://forum.carvewright.com/images/buttons/viewpost.gif (http://forum.carvewright.com/showthread.php?p=95661#post95661)
It would be nice if someone was in the plastic injection molding business to take a look at this.
Would be nice to see a clear one piece molded part that fit like a glove.


Ahhhh --- The last time I had to have a set of dies made for a one piece plastic injection molding
it was about the size of a small cell phone, and it cost me $8,000.00 -- and it wasn’t even made for clear plastic. http://forum.carvewright.com/images/icons/icon9.gif

Ps. A vacuum formed 2 or 3 piece snap together unit might be more economical

[PCW]

Al

There are some plastic's that will allow current to flow through them making them anti-static. What I do not know is if this type of plastic can be clear. If it could that would be great.

I have the anti-static type hose on my DC. Grounding the machine to a dust collector is a must.

[PCW]

Ken

That is why we need someone in the business to take on the challenge and mass produce them. LHR would be the best to take on the chore but they don't seem to have a interest. That's why we have people like Ron Justice (thank god) that don't mind profiting from this type of aftermarket parts production.

One person can not do it and be profitable however if one person mass produces that part that is a different story.

[Digitalwoodshop]

Al

There are some plastic's that will allow current to flow through them making them anti-static. What I do not know is if this type of plastic can be clear. If it could that would be great.

I have the anti-static type hose on my DC. Grounding the machine to a dust collector is a must.

That is a great point... Anti Static Plastic is avaliable.... I just bunched all plastic into all static.... Plastic snap together just might be the way to go... I think the plastic cover might have anti static built into it....

Good point.

AL

In trading PM's with Bud, I think the mention of Copyright just brought out my horns..... :mrgreen:

[liquidguitars]

Back in the day next to my old shop was a shipwright and he made a fiberglass one for my planer took him about 2 hrs..

Ground anything thats plastic on your dust collector as a good idea..

LG

[Kenm810]

Na, not our Al

Must have been that other guy -- Al who http://smilies.vidahost.com/contrib/edoom/GlowingDemon.gif

[Pratyeka]

I work in the electronic assembly industries for the past 25 years, as long as the machine is well grounded static discharge should not be a problem, unless you discharge into the keypad on directly on an exposed conductor part of the electronics.

My dust collector intake is plastic, but it rests on the metal frame of the machine. Any static that accumulates on the surface of the intake eventually discharges through the metal casing of the machine to ground. That the best way.

Another way that is not often considered is to spray diluted fabric softener on the plastic parts of the dust collector, including the hose if it's not conductive. Fabric softener will make the surface of plastic to conduct static electricity, spreading it to the whole surface instead of it accumulating in one spot and sparking.

[liquidguitars]

I think we are talking about using it in large dust systems with plastic pipe as a bad idea ect.. but you can buy a grounding wires to add to the blast gates..

Lg

[fosterdan]

PCW, thanks (two weeks late) for the kudos and I agree with you in that grounding the Carvewright to the DC is essential. The manual says to make sure the CW is on it's own outlet. I assume to prevent brown outs and surges from damaging the equipment. Otherwise I'd just plug both into the same outlet and they'd share ground there. In theory that should work anywhere in the house but if you live in a "track home" like me then you know they don't build them like they used to...or even to code. I don't know how the twig huts in my area passed inspection. Thank goodness I'm only renting the place!

Anyways, maybe I'll run copper wicking wire (for soldering) from one machine to the other through the inside of the hose. Maybe, just maybe that might help a little. LOL

[Digitalwoodshop]

Dan,

Do a little research on equipment grounding and ground loops on a wood site like wood web.

You will find the copper brade idea has it's problems and not recommended. I have a wire with 3 clips on each end and ground the dust collector in 3 places and the machine in 3 places, dust hood, machine, and metal cart.

AL

[Kenny]

Hello fellow carvers:

Since I have owned this machine, like everyone else, getting rid of the dust and chips has always been a concern. Knowing the type of people that are using this machine and this forum I knew it would only be a matter of time before someone, or in this case a number of you, would come up with a "better" way of doing it.

I am always impressed with the amount of talent on here, I have always learned something from these post, althought I do not contribute much.

I just wanted to say thank you to everyone for always looking for a better, simpler way do carving.

Kenny Oland

[AskBud]

OK:
The CW vacuum Head project is now a listed project at $30.00.
Go to this link: http://store.carvewright.com//home.php?cat=261
AskBud

[Digitalwoodshop]

Pretty Cool.... If you use Try It you can read the PDF.

Nice job on the PDF. In the try it, it will not let you open the files. Must be for patterns only.

Good Job Bud,

AL

[AskBud]

Pretty Cool.... If you use Try It you can read the PDF.

Nice job on the PDF. In the try it, it will not let you open the files. Must be for patterns only.

Good Job Bud,

AL

AL,
The Vacuum Head project has 4 MPC's that may be the reason you only see a portion of the project until you purchase the product.
AskBud

[Digitalwoodshop]

Saw the 4 .mpc's and the PDF. The PDF has pictures of the .mpc's so you can see what your buying before you buy.

Good Luck

Don't forget to post it in Sawmill Creek.

AL

[hess]

looking at tring your DC

are you running a dd sys also?
where are you venting your exhaust from the muffler

Thanks hess

[AskBud]

looking at tring your DC

are you running a dd sys also?
where are you venting your exhaust from the muffler

Thanks hess

Hess,
I have reversed the DownDraft concept.
I vent my exhaust into the DD piping system so that the exhaust creates positive air flow within the cutting area whenever the cut motor is running.
It's not a must, but since we know that there is just a small amount of fine dust in the exhaust bag, I think it is a good way to apply the usage.

All you need to do is place a reducer on the old DD pipe to accept the size of the hose you attach to the exhaust. I used standard sweeper or shop-vac hose and it fits snuggly on the inner portion of the existing exhaust once you remove the bag portion. I also cut a piece of coat hanger and used it to hold the exhaust hose above the outfeed tables. I just put a Right Angle bend on the end where the hanger attaches to the machine and dropped it in one of the slots.
See photo(s) below.
AskBud

[Ropdoc]

My DD Cabinet is a mobile self-contained unit,
I can roll it to where I want plug it in, and carve.

I have been looking for this post. I would like to build this. I just tore and old heater apart and have a squireel cage to use. Look at Page 8 for an awesome setup by Ken810. Thank you.

[tbroeski]

I figured I'd wait a bit before finally posting this. I have a big shop system, but wanted to design something that would not block the view. All the others I've seen just seemed bulky or complex. I have downdraft, but it doesn't work well with wide boards. I use this one by taping a couple tiny blocks to the cover, so the switches engage before it hits the tube. You can also just cut a slot in the cover.

I wanted something that the home shop guy could use without buying a big shop vac system. I used a $20 VacMaster (you can get at Target). Has both suck and blow for those that want to do the positive air flow Bud suggests. I had a clear mailing tube with end caps laying around for the prototype, but PVC pipe or whatever should work.

Just cut a slot in from the ends a bit. I found that tapering the slot from 1/8" to 3/8" seemed to balance the airflow so I could have the output on the far end out of the way. I took a piece of plastic and glued it in front of the slot. You will need to notch the plastic flap on the right end to clear the bit depth pop out. Will probably make one with another piece on the other side of the slot to give a bit better pull, though this is working just fine.
503525035350354

If anyone has any questions, let me know. I was going to produce these in a nice black unit for sale, but wasn't sure what the market would be.

tom@adesigner.com http://inventorforhire.com

[DickB]

I used a vacuum at first, but it was very noisy and for me not as efficient as a 600 CFM dust collector. The latter is also a great addition to the rest of the shop. I like the compactness of your nozzle, but I've gotten used to by larger one and it's not really an issue.

[bergerud]

I used a system just like this before I started on the dust cap. I worked to keep the sawdust from accumulating under the front roller but there was still a lot of sawdust it missed. Yours looks better. Can you show us a picture of what the machine looks like after a carve?

[tbroeski]

This is only a 1 hour carve. There isn't much to see. I plan on doing a 4 hour carve and some Corian. That will be the real test. I have a big DC system for the shop. Just wanted to help out those that don't want to spend that much on a vacuum. It is noisy compared to the central system. I don't stand at the machine without ear protection anyway. I have a good downdraft table, but it's not that great on wide boards.

5035950358

[bergerud]

That looks pretty good.

[DickB]

Looks very clean. Thanks for the post.

[cestout]

I also have a downdraft connected to the "muffeler" with a toilet L with a 1 1/2 vent in the heel - that would be a 1 1/2 x 3 x 3 T - and it isn't so to ptirry good aon wide boards. This looks like a good answer>
Thanks
Clint

[chief2007]

@tbroeski I like this version - sleek fit and could be adapted to work with any dust collector. Would recommend adding brackets that would allow you to install it using the 2 threaded holes on the deck of the head. Keep it secure and allow for a ground point.

[tbroeski]

The brackets might be a good idea. This is just stuck between the two ends/sides. Grounding isn't a problem. Was surprised there wasn't even any static. I will actually be using my main vac system, but wanted to see if a cheap vac would work.

[fwharris]

The brackets might be a good idea. This is just stuck between the two ends/sides. Grounding isn't a problem. Was surprised there wasn't even any static. I will actually be using my main vac system, but wanted to see if a cheap vac would work.

Don't be fooled about the grounding! You might not have seen any static inside the machine but I will bet one of my inserts that the shop vac hose was building up a nice charge. With ANY woodworking dust collection system you NEED a good grounding system to protect you and your shop!

[Digitalwoodshop]

Don't be fooled about the grounding! You might not have seen any static inside the machine but I will bet one of my inserts that the shop vac hose was building up a nice charge. With ANY woodworking dust collection system you NEED a good grounding system to protect you and your shop!

That's a Fact JACK !!!!!

AL

Can't believe that my 2009 dust collector pictures have been viewed over 500 times....

[tbroeski]

Don't be fooled about the grounding! You might not have seen any static inside the machine but I will bet one of my inserts that the shop vac hose was building up a nice charge. With ANY woodworking dust collection system you NEED a good grounding system to protect you and your shop!

I took your advice. I put a grounding strap on. With the rubber traction belts and Corian, there was a lot more static. The rubber belt isn't as clean as the sandpaper belt when running. Everything is much cleaner when I use my heavy duty vacuum, but the cheap one still works quite well. And it isn't any noisier than the machine itself, so I didn't notice that much difference in sound between the two. Of course, I wear ear plugs anyway.

I also put a dab of hot melt glue on the plastic switch tips on the cover. Really simple way to get the cover to switch on when not all the way closed. Of course, let it cool before using ; )
512265122751228

Corian is running right now. Will post end result when done.

[tbroeski]

The project was clean, but the rubber belt had some "dust" on it, as well as the back table.

51230

[fwharris]

Good job on adding the grounding system for the added ounce of prevention. I would suggest that you just go ahead and modify your cover cover so that it will close all of the way and rest against the frame. Thinking that the weight of the cover could eventually push the switch back. Neat idea though, I used tooth picks when I was doing my design trials. Looks like a nice clean carve...

[rcdages]

Hello Matt,

Good to see you have resurfaced.

Looking forward to your new videos.

What are you doing in California ??