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Schluppy
01-14-2009, 08:37 PM
Hello all
I was wondering what type of wood everyone would recommend that produced the best results for any sort of project? I'm a beginner and have done some simple text out of Pine but did not quite like the results.
Thanks for any input!

RBeau1954
01-14-2009, 08:45 PM
I have used walnut, cherry, aspen, cedar, maple, pine, oak, both white and red and poplar and the woods that have tight, closed grain seem to do the best. Cherry, maple and walnut seem to have the best results. Aspen is horrid, too much fuzz. Almost anything will work if you want to work on sanding more then some. There are some threads on here about sanding and using sanding disc and such on your drill press or dremel to clean up the project but maple and cherry are good and I use walnut for most of my stuff because I love walnut. Just my experience.

RanUtah
01-14-2009, 09:09 PM
The machine really likes hard woods.

Schluppy
01-14-2009, 09:56 PM
Thanks Guys! Looks like I'm running to the local lumber yard and picling up some hardwoods for the Saw God!

jonm3
01-15-2009, 07:22 AM
I have seen in my area, Fredericksburg, VA that one ruff cut wood mill is closing down. From what I heard from my father, that the owner is 70+ and can not get around anymore. Places like this make you look for wood harder when sources close their door.

oldjoe
01-15-2009, 11:29 AM
This brings up a question. Mini-Wax makes a wood hardener and I was wondering if anyone has tried it.

MikeMcCoy
01-15-2009, 11:53 AM
This brings up a question. Mini-Wax makes a wood hardener and I was wondering if anyone has tried it.


I've used it in home renovations for small spots that weren't accessible. I don't think I would use it on wood for a carving since it discolors the wood pretty drastically and you could probably forget putting on a finish other than paint.

Kenm810
01-15-2009, 11:54 AM
I often use it to restore old wood pieces
and to stabilize new project boards for carving
text and finer graphics.

Check out page 2 of this thread
Scanning Probe (http://forum.carvewright.com/showthread.php?t=2759&highlight=hardener) (http://forum.carvewright.com/images/misc/multipage.gif 1 (http://forum.carvewright.com/showthread.php?t=2759&highlight=hardener) 2 (http://forum.carvewright.com/showthread.php?t=2759&page=2&highlight=hardener) 3 (http://forum.carvewright.com/showthread.php?t=2759&page=3&highlight=hardener))

Marcusb
01-15-2009, 02:34 PM
So far my favorites are Ash and Mahogany. Very clean carve.

Amonaug
01-15-2009, 03:46 PM
I've used everything from Aspen to Walnut, it all carves fine.

ChrisAlb
01-15-2009, 06:42 PM
Hello all
I was wondering what type of wood everyone would recommend that produced the best results for any sort of project? I'm a beginner and have done some simple text out of Pine but did not quite like the results.
Thanks for any input!

Hi Schluppy and welcome,

Just a thought here as I carve all kinds of text in all kinds of pine and get very nice results.

You might want to check your setup for the text you're carving, i.e. depth, height, draft etc. While carving hardwood is nicer than softwood, if your setup isn't right, it won't matter what wood you throw at it. I wouldn't want to see you waste expensive hardwood if the setup is no good.

If it's only text, post the MPC file here so we can see it and check it out. We might just save you some wood and carving time.

Schluppy
01-15-2009, 10:52 PM
Is the MPC file the file uploaded to the memory card? Thanks for everyones help!

ChrisAlb
01-16-2009, 07:52 AM
Yes, the MPC is the "project" you save and upload to the card.

MPC = Project file
PTN = Pattern files contained within the project
MPW = Image file for the pattern editor from which PTN (patterns) are made.

PNG = The preferred graphic image format for importing to create patterns.

Designer import will also handle JPG, JPEG, BMP, GIF, MNG, XPM Files.

I use only PNG files as they have the cleanest compression upon saving. If I'm working with any of the other formats, I convert to or save as a PNG before importing it to Designer.

myairplane
02-01-2009, 10:46 PM
I just tried Red Oak while carving the NeoClassical keepsake box and stopped it 2 hours in to the 6.5 hour cut.. The grain was too "open" for such detail.. Not sure what I'll try next, maybe mahogany or walnut.

Would be nice if there was a chart done for varuous woods vs. carving detail. Although I knew the Oak would not work, thought maybe the "Optimal" setting would improve it.. Although I built a Poker Table and carved the pedestal seperator board out of oak, came out GREAT! But just carved text in it, no "fine" detail.

4 hours AFTER my machine arrived I was carving a 2-sided design on a 2x6x48 piece of Red Oak and it worked fine! lol

AskBud
02-01-2009, 10:53 PM
I just tried Red Oak while carving the NeoClassical keepsake box and stopped it 2 hours in to the 6.5 hour cut.. The grain was too "open" for such detail.. Not sure what I'll try next, maybe mahogany or walnut.

Would be nice if there was a chart done for varuous woods vs. carving detail. Although I knew the Oak would not work, thought maybe the "Optimal" setting would improve it.. Although I built a Poker Table and carved the pedestal seperator board out of oak, came out GREAT! But just carved text in it, no "fine" detail.

4 hours AFTER my machine arrived I was carving a 2-sided design on a 2x6x48 piece of Red Oak and it worked fine! lol
See if this chart helps.
AskBud http://forum.carvewright.com//attachment.php?attachmentid=10302&d=1205283058

geekviking
02-01-2009, 11:34 PM
Bud, I've got one of those hanging in my shop at eye level... :)

myairplane
02-02-2009, 06:38 AM
Nice chart! I was just at Woodsmith on Saturday, need to get one of those next time I'm there.. thanks!