Do you have rubber belts?
If you do, see how close the brass roller gets to the belt when the board presses it down. The front rubber belt can interfere with the brass tracking roller and cause the type of problem you are having.
Do you have rubber belts?
If you do, see how close the brass roller gets to the belt when the board presses it down. The front rubber belt can interfere with the brass tracking roller and cause the type of problem you are having.
sand paper belts
Then do check for belt roll under as CW-HAL9000 suggests. It is sometimes hard to see. Compare the widths of the belts. If one is rolled under, it will be narrower.
Hi Lonnie,
Please give me a call tomorrow. If your schedule permits, maybe you can bring the machine over and I'll help check it out with you this week. I know you are in the process of stocking up for your upcoming shows, so we'll get your machine a thorough check-up ASAP!
Michael T
Happy Carving!
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I'm having trouble with using "CUT OUT"... I attach three pictures.. first is just my project done wit the "V" bit to show it's lines, next is through cuts with a straight 1/8 bit (looks OK) but last is using the "CUT OUT" option... which is all screwed up... It's using the same bit setting (1/8") and inset... but it looks like it's using a 1/4" cutter... if that is what happens with through cuts... is there any way to manually make tabs?
Instead of using an offset, try just flipping coutout so it cuts to the outside of your dimensions. Watch that center dot though, depending on the actual diameter, you might leave it as is. (Right click, flip cutout or hit the cutout button twice to reopen the dialog box)
When I do snowflakes, I flip the outside lines but not the inside, so play til you get the right results.
I think you must have doubled up the paths. If you assigned the 1/8" cutting bit to the path and then made it a cut path, the 1/8" bit is cutting twice. Both operations can be assigned to a path.
Edit: You need to "select bit" and choose "no bit" to unassign the 1/8" cutting bit from the path.
Last edited by bergerud; 11-24-2014 at 08:23 AM.
This is a difficult project... If I was doing it, I would do it as a vector cut and assign the 1/4 inch bit with multi pass cut depending on the board thickness. I would actuallly use the 1/8th inch bit AND set the depth to leave a skin on the bottom. The skin will hold all the stuff in place and either a thickness sander or a palm sander will sand off the skin releasing the parts.
You lie to the machine telling it you are going to use a 1/4 inch bit but use the 1/8th or even 1/16th circuit board bit as it locks the feed rate into 1st gear.
Most of the time the machine does 2 speed vector cutting... 1st gear on turns then 2nd gear and that was where the fun happens.... I have had the machine push faster than the bit could cut and it pushes the wood around and bad things happen...
Good Luck...
AL
Last edited by Digitalwoodshop; 11-24-2014 at 11:40 AM.
Favorite Saying.... "It's ALL About the Brass Roller"..... And "Use MASKING TAPE" for board skipping in the X or breaking bits.
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Thank you DianMayfield for explaining how to properly utilize the 'CUTOUT' function and Berger for explaining how I got the perplexing results by inadvertantly combining both a 'tool spec' and a 'CUTOUT' spec ... I've corrected everything, and made LOTS of notes so I don't forget what you've taught me ... Cheers, Dave