Thank you. Very impressive design.
Thank you. Very impressive design.
Yes, muchos kudos to Dave for working on it. He has more skill with Designer than I will ever have. I've carved about six of the dust shoe patterns including two of the earlier iterations with the open front. I have been using 1/2" Corian instead of the Lexan mainly because I get the Corian free from a countertop installer as sink cutouts. They don't look as sexy as Lexan but it is still a good material. The bit check plate I did make out of Lexan mainly because I had some 1/4" on hand from another project.
OK, now the latest update on my efforts to get this design of dust shoe working. I was able to find a plastic 90° elbow at Lowe's that, with some Dremel tool work, would fit within the very close clearances this design requires. (Four different attempts to carve the angled outflow tube were all failures due to the very thin wall and my inability to flip the work and re-register the corner within the tolerances needed - it's a two sided carve.) I also found a nice piece of ~1/2" corrugated plastic hose that would be flexible enough to track the width of the Y-axis without creating too much drag. So I put everything together and installed it. (BTW, installing the bit check plate requires partial disassembly/reassembly of the carriage lock mechanism. It's a pain but doable.) I did a little 6x8 lithopane carve with the dust shoe hooked into my Fein shop vac. For the first 25% of the carve there was barely any flecks showing anywhere within the CarveWright. At that point the glue that I attached the outflow tube to the shoe ball bearing race failed and the change was immediately evident. So I can count this as a provisional success!
I used the glue sparingly to attach the outflow tube because I didn't want to get any in the bearing itself and freeze it up. I'll try not only a little more glue, but a different kind. The stuff I used (Uhu) has a flexible bond and is usually tenacious but of course even a tiny amount of oil from the bearing race would weaken or negate any bonding, especially on non-porous materials like plastic and metal. I'll try gluing it again with better preparation, using a judicious amount, and a different glue that will be stiffer. I'll let you all know how it turns out. I'm going out of town later this week so I won't get to it for a couple of weeks, but I definitely will.
One last question for Dave Bergerud. Where do you source the fuzzy window seal strip you use in the slot on the bottom? I had to resort to using felt fabric for this purpose. It works but I like yours better. thanks.
I have sent you a tube. You should get it in a week or so.
The brush material is sliding window seal. I have also seen it on door sweepers.
Dan
For the hose check out your Neighbors that may be using a CPAP Breathing Machine for sleep apnea.
Very flexible, crush resistant, and about the correct size. Only fresh air is blown through the hose so it is not a bio hazard.
You can even find them on eBay new.
I plan to revisit this project in the winter... and use a small variable speed blower and dust trap.
AL
Last edited by Digitalwoodshop; 09-13-2016 at 09:38 AM.
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I will have to check out that hose Al. It could be the answer I have been looking for. Good one.
I plan to try to adapt a CPAP Mask to install after bit check too... Using your base plate shoe.
It has a clear slip or twist connector letting the hose rotate that might be a good thing too...
AL
Favorite Saying.... "It's ALL About the Brass Roller"..... And "Use MASKING TAPE" for board skipping in the X or breaking bits.
Follow ME on Facebook http://www.facebook.com/pages/Accoun...50019051727074
www.PoconoDigitalWoodshop.com
www.AccountabilityTag.com
I just ordered 6 ft of 19mm CPAP hose. The normal stuff seems to be 22mm which is closer to 7/8". The 19mm (3/4") seems already big enough for me. I will report on it when I get it and give it a try.