Does anyone have a scan of an old hand plane tote and knob? I have an old stanley #5 but no tote or knob. Thanks
Does anyone have a scan of an old hand plane tote and knob? I have an old stanley #5 but no tote or knob. Thanks
I'm sure someone can scan one for you, but I have to say that this is one of those jobs that is quite grain dependant. It is probably more practical to turn the front knob on a lathe (I've even seen a guy that used his drill press as a lathe to turn a knob) and use a bandsaw/rasps/sandpaper for the tote. I'm not saying it couldn't be done with the CW, just that this is one of those jobs that is quicker/easier/better suited to traditional tools.
Lawrence
Thanks Lawrence. I am planning to turn the knob on my lathe. I have a turncrafter midi. Just seemed like on the tote it would be a lot less work to to let the CW do it since I am really wanting an exact replica. I have some nice rosewood that I do not want to mess up. I was planning on using the scrap left over from the tote to turn the knob.
Hope this helps.
http://www.cornishworkshop.co.uk/planetote.html
I made a drawing for handles I use on push blocks, it may work for you. It is like a Stanley rear tote. It does keep my fingers out of my saw blades.
Drill the hole in the block of wood first, then place the pattern 16 degrees to the hole. I now make them with the CW unit.
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Thank you so much!
OK... well I needed to try out my new sled and I needed to make a tote and new knob for a #4 -- here's my attempt. I found the PDF for a stanley 3/4 from lee valley's website
http://www.leevalley.com/us/wood/pag...62&cat=1,46168
I turned the PDF into a DXF and imported it
I then cut off a sound 5x5x15/16 thick piece of Mesquite and looked at the grain to find the strongest direction... I mounted it with double sided tape and 2 brads onto the sled and carved it out with a 1/8 bit taking shallow passes.
After I carved it I drilled the top holes (before removing it from the square) and then removed it. I then drilled the recesses in the bottom and then rounded over the front and back with a 1/2 roundover bit in my router table.
I then used rasps, files, wet sandpaper with boiled linseed oil, and finally micro mesh to 12000 grit and got this result. Later this week I will turn a new knob and tune the plane up. I'm sure there is a way to round over the tote on the CW, but this way was IMHO, quite easy-- the CW left nice smooth lines for the router bearing to follow. I hope this helps.
Lawrence
One more quick thing- the lee valley link is quite valuable as it contains specific instructions as well
Hope things turn out-- please post pics!
Lawrence
ps-- I just noticed you want a #5 tote-- which is a different size... hold on and I'll get you one asap
ldr
here's the #5
Sorry I didn't read your post clearly enough the first time-- good luck with your carve
Lawrence