Got the Fuzzies - quality problem

[HandTurnedMaple]

I am wondering if the letters aren't the result of them being too small. The picture below is my second attempt at an address sign, done in oak. The letters are almost an inch, and the thin areas couples with the oak splintering caused several letters to break up similar to yours. I've since switched to using MS Word fonts, copying them in Corel, then importing into Designer for recessed lettering (back door Centerline fonts I guess).

Note: this is also the sign where I learned that you don't program the extra 7" for the rollers into Designer.

[pwell]

After all these postings, comments and phone calls, I still have a major quality problem! I tried a new tapered cutter and motor speed control fix the result of which is nothing. Please see photo attached. Experiments with depth settings also have been tried. .125 is stead of .25 depth helped but did not fix the big problem of chipout and fuzzys.

[HerbO]

Hi pwell
My CW had a problem with the Bit Chuck. On my third attemp it was chewing the letters like you showed above. Rotate the bit by hand and see if there any bit wobble. It was very hard getting the bit out and the adaptor had some shiny spots like it was worn.

[Marzluf]

I think you're still too deep for that particular carving and board size.

Here's your file that I altered the depth on and decreased the feathering.

[David M.]

This looks like a combination of issues. The wood to soft and the font strokes to narrow and the size might be to small. I have had good luck with 1" text but not with the softer woods or very narrow strokes widths. That combination almost never works, and stay away from oak it's to brital usually. The fuzz I usually spray with a light caot of lacquer and wire brush after it's dry, usually not more than a few minutes work total.

[HandTurnedMaple]

Its a thickness issue. Anything under 1/8" wide runs a risk of chipout. The letters are right at that line as are the face lines. Try making those things thicker and cut it again. Or invert it so that the lines are cut into the wood instead of standing proud.

And back to the Last Supper you asked about earlier, it is definately in the scanned pattern. I did it yesterday and came out feeling like an egg carton. I showed it to 3 people in person, told them it was a special texturing technique and they all were impressed.

[HandTurnedMaple]

The fuzz I usually spray with a light caot of lacquer and wire brush after it's dry, usually not more than a few minutes work total.

That's a trick I use when I put a water-based stain on pine. Once it raises the grain, I spray the first coat of pre-cat lacquer. After it dries, I sand it flat again with a 220-grit sanding sponge and spray a second coat. Almost always comes out with a glass smooth finish after the second coat.

[pwell]

I tried the revised patriots.mpc carving file with much better results. I still has some bad tearout in the printed matter.

l also noticed the speed changed three times while carving this mpc file. I was given a very small controll board about 1/4" wide by 1/2" long with a small white connector on its end. The problem is, where is the original in the machine? is there some documentation or advice I can get to aid in its changing?

Also, as for quality, I have heard it said by many that the machine is supposed to use whatever fonts I have on my pc. I have carved thin narrow fonts and thick wide ones. The tear out is significant on ALL fonts, especially if I set the feathering to 1/4" or 1/2" and the depth to anything over .09.

Shouldn't the machine be able to handle these fonts at 1/8" or more depth in a good quality clear wood like pine or poplar?

I got a new 1/6" tappered bit and tried it. No help. Could play in the truck that goes up and down be part of this problem? When I move it by hand it seems reasonably tight although I do get a small bit of play. I'm not absolutely sure what I should be looking for. There are some black covers around the bearings on the truck which are real loose. I found a broken black cover piece in the bottom of the machine near the panel witht he key pad on it.

I have been at this for almost a month now with minimal positive results. I am getting discouraged.

I wish to thank all who have been so kind as to offer help and comments. ANybody got some magic dust?

[Jeff_Birt]

I was given a very small controll board about 1/4" wide by 1/2" long with a small white connector on its end. The problem is, where is the original in the machine? is there some documentation or advice I can get to aid in its changing?

You got the board from CW? If so I would contact them for replacment instructions. As for quality issues, pictures and MPC files help out a lot so others can see what the problem is. I found found that the choice of font is critical. Show us what you are working on and perhaps someone can help out .

[pwell]

Ok, here are some more pictures showing the very same chipout problems and lousy quality carving letters.

Thanks for all the constructive helps.

Nothing in all my projects which number @ 20 are worth keeping and would please nobody.

I am still waiting for a reply to my request to the long ato promised directions on how to replace a motor control board from CW.


The problems continue: