Open doorr sensor

[vintagecop]

Thanks to all. I've had so many suggestions and answers it amazes me.
It is a learning process and I am a step one.
Jim

[hunkeydorey]

For over two weeks my unit has been out of service with a FALSE open door error that is not resolved. One of CarveRight's second level technician had me short the sensor to quckly identify whether it was a real or false open door error and alas, it was a false error. So far, we have upgraded my old A system and removed the old small flat cable for the probe, replaced two circuit boards, the large flat cable, and the Z-Axis tractor assembly and the false error continues.

I am at a loss and would appreciate any suggestions?

HELP, Larry a new "old" member

[AskBud]

For over two weeks my unit has been out of service with a FALSE open door error that is not resolved. One of CarveRight's second level technician had me short the sensor to quckly identify whether it was a real or false open door error and alas, it was a false error. So far, we have upgraded my old A system and removed the old small flat cable for the probe, replaced two circuit boards, the large flat cable, and the Z-Axis tractor assembly and the false error continues.

I am at a loss and would appreciate any suggestions?

HELP, Larry a new "old" member

Too bad your signature does not reflect the City & State you are in! You might have a fellow carver just down the way that could assist you.
AskBud

[Digitalwoodshop]

Larry,

That was a "Good Thing" that LHR had you do replacing the parts.... I see you are on post 4 and have been a forum member since 2007.... Same as me.... Good to hear you are using your machine.

The first thing I would check after replacing all the parts that you did is weather you plugged the left cover switch into the plug 180 out..... Look at the wires on the plug at the circuit board and the white wire in the bundle needs to be pointed toward the center of the machine.... 180 out will give you a constant open cover....

If this does not fix the problem then....

With a small object press in the left switch while holding the cover open while monitoring the switch status on the LCD. Using Options, Sensor Data, and Cover.... Should say Open and Closed.... depending on if it works.....

If that does not work.... Crank the head down on a board and place a piece of copy paper under the rollers. Using Options and Sensor Data Again look at Board Sensor.... You should get 140 to 156 with white paper.
80 and above could be a dirty lens, outside and inside....

A ZERO.... reading can tell me that a wire is pinched.....

Let us know what you get....

You can also call me if you get stumped.... My number in on the bottom of my web page listed below.

Good Luck,

AL

And the old version is a 18 pin not a 16 pin.... My bad...

[Nighthawk12]

Take a look at the connector that comes from the cover switch on the key pad side and check to see if its pluged in upside down. I did that once when I worked on my Carvewright and that its pluged in all the way.


Jim

[Pratyeka]

I find it deplorable that a supposed "safety switch" causes problems to so many. Those switches are not the right kind for reliable operation, in my opinion. That is one reason why I jumped both switches, other than taking the whole plastic top cover off. What I do for safety when changing bits is take the flex cable off the Z truck.

As has been said numerous time before, do not use the door to stop the machine during carving. The tiny micro-switch that cuts the motor off cannot handle the current and will burn in no time. Always use the stop button on the keypad.

[Digitalwoodshop]

I find it deplorable that a supposed "safety switch" causes problems to so many. Those switches are not the right kind for reliable operation, in my opinion. That is one reason why I jumped both switches, other than taking the whole plastic top cover off. What I do for safety when changing bits is take the flex cable off the Z truck.

As has been said numerous time before, do not use the door to stop the machine during carving. The tiny micro-switch that cuts the motor off cannot handle the current and will burn in no time. Always use the stop button on the keypad.

The Left switch is a low current switch as it passes low voltage, most likely 5 volt logic voltage. The right side switch is much heavier and desired for the cut motor current. I honestly have never heard of a right side cut motor safety switch burning open.... Dust inside the switch, screws loose holding the switch, and loose cover hinge screws.... Unless I missed something...

I believe the left cover switch should have been a magnetic reed switch. Never a dust problem with them.... Most Laser Engravers use magnetic switches for cover safety.

I am betting that the many replaced switches were really GOOD and the screw holes were damaged at one time when the top cover was removed and the clear cover was resting on both switches damaged the screw post holes.... Letting the new switch slide back after a time. I could be wrong but it's a WAG.... The Clear Plastic Cover was not designed with a Mechanical Stop and when the top cover is removed and the tech is not aware can let the weight of the clear plastic cover press and DAMAGE the switches.

Just my opinion.... Been around this electronics stuff a long time...

AL