Cutting Region Time Down To Size

[ChrisAlb]

Doing a fairly large mirror project in oak. It's 11.25 x 35.25. The project front is pretty fancy and the back needs to be plowed out for the glass at .25 deep and 10.25 x 34.25. Carving in Best mode it's a 24+ hour carve. The region on the back alone was an 8:58:19 carve!!! LOL...you must be kidding me...LOL

Since the front is a pierced carving, I couldn't see adding that much time to just hog out the back. So I cheated a bit.

I set up the same rectangle I would for the region but just applied the 1/8 cut bit to the path at .25 deep with a 1/16" inset to get my finished 10.25 x 34.25 size. Then I used straight lines 9.875 long across the width at 3/8 apart and applied the 3/8 straight bit at .25 deep. All in it took 1:28:32 to carve out the back.

I also did the back in a separate file so I can start the 13:15:23 hour front carve in the morning. Too late to start it now....lol

Note: As you can see in picture 2, Unlike "dust" from the carving bit, the chips pile up fast so be ready to vacuum it out often. This was after the first 6 passes.

[Audie]

Hey Chris...

What if you put a rectangle in the middle of the frame...inset within the borders of the frame, set the height to zero and then a cut path. That would remove the "waste" area quicker...(might even be able to use the rectangle piece of wood for another project). On the back side you could carve a recessed area around the perimeter of the frame for the mirror to be mounted, the center section would be left intact then...

A technique I do on frames...

Audie

[Amonaug]

Chris, I've used that same technique on several projects with large areas like that.

[ChrisAlb]

Hey Chris...

What if you put a rectangle in the middle of the frame...inset within the borders of the frame, set the height to zero and then a cut path. That would remove the "waste" area quicker...(might even be able to use the rectangle piece of wood for another project). On the back side you could carve a recessed area around the perimeter of the frame for the mirror to be mounted, the center section would be left intact then...

A technique I do on frames...

Audie

Hey Audie,

Well I'm not cutting that middle section out. That's the back of a pierced carving. I had to remove the entire back so when I turn it over and carve the front it will carve right through. Then the mirror will sit behind the pierced carving in what's left around the edges.

There will be pictures when it's done.


Kevin,

yea I do this from time to time. The first time was over a year ago. It makes a bit of a mess but sure saves time and carving bits. I've done the same type of thing a lot on the work site with a hand router. The CW sure is easier...lol

[Dan-Woodman]

CHRIS
How about this , It's only 56 : 38 in best. Just another way to accomplish the same thing.
If you do just straight lines ,it has to start over on each line , but if you connect all lines it should continually cut all the way and around the perimeter too to get rid of the little missed pieces from the 3/8 bit.
Another way would be to make a contineuos rectangle around and around. I haven't tried any of these yet so let us know what works and what don't.
One thing I forgot on this mpc.--select all, then group.
later Daniel

[ChrisAlb]

CHRIS
How about this , It's only 56 : 38 in best. Just another way to accomplish the same thing.
If you do just straight lines ,it has to start over on each line , but if you connect all lines it should continually cut all the way and around the perimeter too to get rid of the little missed pieces from the 3/8 bit.
Another way would be to make a contineuos rectangle around and around. I haven't tried any of these yet so let us know what works and what don't.
One thing I forgot on this mpc.--select all, then group.
later Daniel

Daniel,

That's another idea for sure. I might be a little nervous about it cutting a full 3/8 wide and a 1/4 deep on the path back to the keypad. Technically, as routers go, that's cutting backward and I wonder if it wouldn't put a lot of strain on the truck & servo with the bit trying to pull itself into the wood. You know what it's like trying to hold onto a hand held cutting that way...LOL

The 1/8 path around the outside took care of the little pieces at the edge. When it was finished, it was clean all the way around. I didn't have to do a thing to it.

[Amonaug]

I've used spiral rectangles most times that start on the outside and work it's way inside with no problems. But something that big a back and forth would work better.

[Dan-Woodman]

Chris
One thing about it is you have 85 lbs. of down force on your piece of wood.
Does anyone out there know about the servo's? What kind of locking force do they have to lock the z-truck from moving while routing?
I've routed 3/16" deep with a 1/2" bit with out any problems . But that was MDF board.

Amonaug
Maybe that idea about "spiral rectangles" should be added to the wish list to go along with the round spiral feature.
later Daniel

[ChrisAlb]

Daniel,

Oh I'm sure it will do it OK. Let me ask you, even though it was MDF, could you notice any difference in load on the motor between the two directions?

The servos are pretty darn strong. Just for kicks one day I tried to stop the Y direction by hand. No way...LOL I'd be less concerned about them than I would the truck, bearings, truck rail.

I know it cuts in that direction fine when I do a rectangle or one of my border carves but that's just one or two passes. This puppy took a lot of lines to hog out.

[Dan-Woodman]

Chris
I didn't notice much difference, but then that was a couple of years back, and MDF routs really easy. I think this is a well designed machine and it will handle it. I would also be interested in if it would even make one pass at 1/4" deep x3/8" wide.
Til tommorrow later Daniel