Results 1 to 6 of 6

Thread: Head Crank Torque Adjustment

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Feb 2008
    Location
    Northport, New York
    Posts
    14

    Default Head Crank Torque Adjustment

    I consistently get a front roller compression error when I crank down the head (switch remains "released"). I find that if I push down lightly on the head after it contacts the wood and continue to crank, I can get the front switch to show compressed and then everything works fine. I measured head force with a scale and I measure only about 68 pounds before the clutch disengages. I've cleaned and lubed the shafts with no improvement.

    I think the problem is that the handle clutch disengages too soon, before I've built up enough compression to trip the switch. I was wondering if it's possible to adjust the clutch to get more compression before it releases?

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Sep 2007
    Location
    Henderson, NC
    Posts
    559

    Default

    Kevin

    You need to do five clicks on the crank handle. If this is what you are doing you need to adjust the clicker (clutch). I sorry I can't advise you how to do it because I never had to do it.

    Hopefully another forum member can help.
    Mel

    Patterns for sale at CW's Pattern Depot
    Check out "Yankee Pop's Shop" at
    http://www.carvewright.com/store/pat...nkeepop&page=1

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Feb 2008
    Location
    Effingham IL.
    Posts
    32

    Default Head Crank

    Head Not Cranking Down or Low Pressure


    First, check to see if the tie rod between the two leadscrews has sufficient play.
    1. Lay the machine on it’s back so the bottom of the machine is accessible.
    2. Locate the tie rod (it is the rod in the middle of the machine that spans from one side to the other).
    3. Verify there is side to side play in the rod.
    4. What you don’t want to see is a rod locked into place and unable to move by hand. If this is the case than contact CarveWright for the needed parts.
    In many cases the four vertical guide rods and lead screws on the machine will need to be greased to achieve the correct pressure. If a low reading persists after applying grease follow the steps below for setting the vertical guide rods parallel to one another.
    1. Unplug machine.
    2. Crank head to within 1” of the sandpaper belts but not touching them.
    3. Using a 10mm socket, loosen all four bolts attaching the vertical guide rods to the top of the side panels. NOTE: Loosen means a turn or two: DO NOT REMOVE BOLTS.
    4. Lay the machine on it’s back and remove bottom panel (12 screws).
    5. Place machine right side up and slide one side (key pad side or non-key pad side it doesn’t matter) off the end of the bench. Give yourself sufficient room to reach to 10mm bolts attaching the bottom of the vertical guide rods to the base of the machine.
    6. Loosen both bottom 10mm bolts attaching the bottom of the vertical guide rods to the base of the machine.
    7. Now all four bolts attaching the two vertical guide rods on that side of the machine are loose. This allows the head to set the correct spacing for those two guide rods.
    8. Tighten the two bottom bolts.
    9. Rotate machine 180 degrees where the other side of the machine is overhanging the bench.
    10. Repeat steps 6-8 for this side of the machine.
    11. Crank head to roughly the middle of it’s travel and tighten the four top 10mm bolts.
    12. Lay the machine on it’s back and reattach the bottom with the 12 screws.
    13. Re-check head load.
    14. If head load is still too low then follow the steps below for checking whether the head is parallel with the base.
    a. Measure the length of the vertical guide rod from the point where it exits the head to the top of the vertical guide rod itself. You can use a tape measure or better yet, a pair of calipers.
    b. From looking at the red handle in front of the machine, measure both the left side (key pad side) vertical guide rod and the right side (non-key pad side).
    c. The two measurements should be within 1/16” of each other. If they are the head is parallel to the base, if not follow the steps below.
    d. Lay the machine on its back and remove the bottom panel (12 screws).
    e. Locate the tie rod and remove the screw that holds the left side of the tie rod in place. NOTE: remove only one screw.
    f. Pull the tie rod away from the base.
    g. With the machine on its back, rotate the crank handle. Only the crank handle side of the head will move.
    h. Crank which ever direction and however much is needed for the two measured distances on the vertical guide rods to be equal.
    i. Once the lengths are within 1/16” of each other. Re-tighten the tie rod.
    j. Replace bottom panel and set machine upright.
    k. Re-check head load.
    l. If head load is still two low, contact CarveWright for further assistance.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Feb 2008
    Location
    Northport, New York
    Posts
    14

    Default Thanks Bob

    Thanks for taking the time to give me such detailed instructions. Honestly, I was hoping for something like:

    1) Open Cover.
    2) Turn torque adjusting screw 1/4 turn clockwise.

    but I'm learning that nothing in CarveWright World is quite that simple!!

    I think I will continue to push lightly down on the head until that doesn't work anymore and then I'll tackle adjusting it as you suggested.

    Thanks again. I really appreciate your time.

    Kevin

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Feb 2008
    Location
    ohio
    Posts
    349

    Default

    Big Bob, I printed out your post, followed it to the T and it seemed to have helped my troubling head problem. Last night I could hardly get the head to go up or the non-keyboard side to go down without jamming. The screw on the keyboard side worked effortlessly but the opposite side screw wasn't turning.

    As soon as I loosened the top four bolts the head unjammed. It went up and down great. I loosened the bottom bolts like you said, retightened them, cranked the head up half way and tightened the top four bolts. Not what this actually does other then letting the head settle into place but it worked. Both side crank up and down prefectly now without any slipping.

    All that needed now is to make sure both sides are aligned right and make the proper adjustment if needed. The right side does seem to be a little higher looking at the plastic top, but the rollers seem to be even. I will put a 3" board in and drop the rollers down to adjust. That way I have room to see inside along the rollers.

    Thanks for the post this morning. It was a great help to me and is in the file with other suggestions people have been making. I print them out, file them under the possible problem and their there when I need them.

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Dec 2006
    Location
    Brunswick, GA
    Posts
    8,123

    Default

    Hello SandBuoy,

    The info posted by Big Bob was copied directly from the LHR Troubleshooting Guide. You may want to download a copy for yourself to keep on hand. Lots of good info there. Here is the link to the LHR TroubleShooting Guide:

    http://www.carvewright.com/forum/att...1&d=1191280559

    (it is in the Troubleshooting/Sticky: Troubleshooting PDF's Section of the Forum - Post #14)
    Last edited by mtylerfl; 03-29-2008 at 12:40 PM.
    Michael T
    Happy Carving!


    ═══ Links to Patterns & Resources for CompuCarve™ & CarveWright™ ═══

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •