Cut motor is running but its really not!

[Rob Mulgrew]

There are numerous threads I've been through on this issue but none have offered me a solution that has worked yet.

The screen say's the cut motor is running but it will not run for a project or test.

I've taken the cut motor out and plugged into the wires with an old extension cord and the motor turns right on so I know the cut motor is fine.
I've also by passed the switches on the cover to rule out a bad switch.
I just put in a brand new X termination board that I got today and that has done nothing.
Put in brand new roller switches with the wire that connects to the cut motor. (Not sure that would have anything to do with the cut motor but I kept getting check roller & stuck roller messages throughout the last few projects and thought maybe it had a switch to kill the motor when the roller error would come up)

Talked to LHR and the next step they said would be to send the controller in for testing but was wondering if anyone can think anything other to check before doing that. I'm really hoping its not the super expensive controller. Any thoughts on this one would be appreciated.
-Rob

[Digitalwoodshop]

The Crimp connectors for the motor have been known to need to be re crimped. The wires between the motor and the X Termination board, through the right side switch.

I would take photos of the X Termination Board close up, plugged in and post them...

Motor... Black to black from X Term

Motor White, through the switch to X Term White.

AL

[Rob Mulgrew]

Thanks for responding Al. I tried the recrimping and it did not work. Here is the picture of the brand new X term board close up.

Being I have orders I needed to get out and can't wait, I set up a temporary work around by wiring the cut motor into a variable speed dial and I just turn on the motor manually after it's done measuring and checking bit depths. I've ran 7 signs so far like this. I actually like being able to manually control the speed of the motor but I don't like having to babysit the machine so closely. For instance the first sign I ran was a v-carve and I got the check cut motor error and didn't press enter quick enough and the z truck just slowly dropped all the way down into the sign with the cut motor running and ruined the sign.
Rpm control would be a nice feature to offer with the machines where you can control the speed depending on the material & bits you want to use, etc.

[ronboley]

Hey...I have the same problem...cut motor does not run although all else seems to work...I've checked EVERYTHING....
I had the same thought, by pass the machine and power the cut motor directly. It looks like you just wired (the black and white wires on the cut motor) to a switch? Is the cut motor 120V? What amp rating does the motor need? I would like to duplicate your set up. Thanks!

[Rob Mulgrew]

Hey...I have the same problem...cut motor does not run although all else seems to work...I've checked EVERYTHING....
I had the same thought, by pass the machine and power the cut motor directly. It looks like you just wired (the black and white wires on the cut motor) to a switch? Is the cut motor 120V? What amp rating does the motor need? I would like to duplicate your set up. Thanks!

Yes, I cut the one end off an old extension cord and wired directly to the cut motors black and white wires. I'm not sure of the voltage on the motor. I'm not real good with electrical terminology but I've figured out just enough to get me through when I'm in a bind.
I got a variable speed router switch from Harbor Freight for $16. I'm not sure of the correct amp rating.

I was so far behind I've ran probably close to 20 projects with this set up and I'm glad it's getting me through but I cant wait to be able to either buy a 2nd machine or get this one fixed correctly. I checked and replaced all the smaller issues that could be causing the cut motor to not turn on all the way up to buying a brand new x term board for $74 and that wasn't even the problem. When the LHR tech told me the next part would be the controller and that is $300 that is where my troubleshooting was put on hold temporarily.

The biggest problem with this is that you have to babysit the machine like never before. For example when it comes time to change bits for a project, the cut motor doesn't stop running so if your not right there to turn off the switch, the z truck slowly lowers itself right into your project.
Or if you get the common "check cut motor" error and your not right there to hit enter then the z truck just slowly falls all the way down with the cut motor on ruining your project.
It's interesting that with nothing from the machine being hooked to the cut motor I still for every centerline carve get a check cut motor error which is supposedly caused by the wrong RPM's? I don't even have the little plug on the top of the cut motor plugged in and I still get that error.

Also, you really have to watch putting the bits in. I have my dial zip tied right next to the machine and I unplug the cut motor from the variable speed switch anytime I am changing a bit because the off/on switch is touchy and you can really mess up your fingers if your not careful.

Other than that, it's just a matter of figuring out where on the dial to run for what bits which is trial and error and easy to figure out when running.

Oh, and make sure you don't turn the cut motor on too soon and get it turned off right after the project finishes or it drops down with the cut motor running and hits the metal where the tracking roller is.

Let me know if I missed anything or if you have any other questions. I'll do my best to answer them.

[lynnfrwd]

IMHO: This sounds like a recipe for disaster.

[bergerud]

Hey...I have the same problem...cut motor does not run although all else seems to work...I've checked EVERYTHING....
I had the same thought, by pass the machine and power the cut motor directly. It looks like you just wired (the black and white wires on the cut motor) to a switch? Is the cut motor 120V? What amp rating does the motor need? I would like to duplicate your set up. Thanks!

I will try anything, but, even I would not want to operate the machine like that. Bad things will happen for sure. Parts will get drilled. Bits will be destroyed.

As a temporary measure to finish some long carves while waiting for parts, it might make some sense. As a permanent measure, I think not. Better to keep trouble shooting and find the real problem. Get a meter and start checking continuity.

[ronboley]

Thank you all for your feed back.
Yeah..I get the safety issues, BUT...this seems to be such a common problem and there seems to be so many reasons for it to happen...really...a flaw in the machine....after spending thousands of dollars for the machine, software packages, bits, rotary jigs, hundreds of hours learning the software, repairing multiple problems with the machine (belts, bits, tracking rollers, bearings, drive shaft melt downs, head pressure, glitchy software) etc....etc... the frustration level with this fatal flaw is extreme. Yes I'll continue to trouble shoot and try to find the problem (for the nth time) but at some point you either throw the whole thing away or find a way to make it happen.

AL - from your photos on the many posts it appears you have repaired every single part of your machine(s) multiple times. You have way more perseverance than me.

[lynnfrwd]

It's either the carbon brushes, the switch, the cut motor, the x-term board or the controller.

[Rob Mulgrew]

Thank you all for your feed back.
Yeah..I get the safety issues, BUT...this seems to be such a common problem and there seems to be so many reasons for it to happen...really...a flaw in the machine....after spending thousands of dollars for the machine, software packages, bits, rotary jigs, hundreds of hours learning the software, repairing multiple problems with the machine (belts, bits, tracking rollers, bearings, drive shaft melt downs, head pressure, glitchy software) etc....etc... the frustration level with this fatal flaw is extreme. Yes I'll continue to trouble shoot and try to find the problem (for the nth time) but at some point you either throw the whole thing away or find a way to make it happen.

I’m with you on the frustration level with all the issues and have experienced most of them myself. It does seem that there are certain problems that are common such as the board sensor issues, flex shaft issues, cut motor issues, etc. but when I still look at my initial investment 4 years ago of $2,000 and realize that this machine brought in over 20 times that over those years I guess it’s not so bad.
There’s a lot I like about my CW but there are some negatives to me. One thing I didn’t like is that everything about this machine is proprietary to LHR and there were times I’ve had to wait 5 weeks for basic parts that you cannot run without. That hasn’t happened in a couple years so hopefully were past that and they’re well stocked.
Even if I get another brand CNC I’ll probably still keep a CW. It’s nice for longer projects and for the layered text signs I do nearly every week it is perfect for. My friend seen that in my signs I layered the text at different heights and tried to replicate it on his $5,000 cnc shark and couldn’t do it with the basic software he had and the upgraded software isn’t cheap.