Flapper won't come out.

[djarboe]

Can ANYONE please give me some guidance on how to set my bit length in my Rock Chuck? PLEASE!

[mtylerfl]

Hi Dave,

BJB and AL should be able to give you some tips, since they both use the rock. Maybe send both a PM or give AL a call (his phone number is on his website).

[henry1]

Yes, if anyone has Rock Chucks that they are not using I do buy them....

Thanks MT

AL

does he still exist for selling parts

[bjbethke]

Can ANYONE please give me some guidance on how to set my bit length in my Rock Chuck? PLEASE!

For your carving and cutting bits, It might be best to buy the new CW bits. The rock collet will hold the bit in place or paint a mark on your bit. There is a cam in the Rock chuck that tightens the bit, make sure you don't tighten on the split in the collet or the bit will fly out. The new chucks work the same way. I added some photos. I find the rock collet holds the bit better then three split collets.

[djarboe]

For your carving and cutting bits, It might be best to buy the new CW bits. The rock collet will hold the bit in place or paint a mark on your bit. There is a cam in the Rock chuck that tightens the bit, make sure you don't tighten on the split in the collet or the bit will fly out. The new chucks work the same way. I added some photos. I find the rock collet holds the bit better then three split collets.

Unfortunately, LHR says they are sold out on the CW chuck. I will look at the CW bits. Thanks!

[djarboe]

For your carving and cutting bits, It might be best to buy the new CW bits. The rock collet will hold the bit in place or paint a mark on your bit. There is a cam in the Rock chuck that tightens the bit, make sure you don't tighten on the split in the collet or the bit will fly out. The new chucks work the same way. I added some photos. I find the rock collet holds the bit better then three split collets.

In looking at your photos, please explain the purpose of the brass washers.

[SteveNelson46]

Here is a link for purchasing router bit stop collars. I haven't purchased from this vendor but the stop collars I have are similar and work pretty good.

http://www.infinitytools.com/Bearing-Stop-Collar-for-1_4-Shank-Router-Bit/productinfo/SC-002/?gclid=CPrcppu-zcwCFZRlfgodhm8EhQ

Install them on each router bit used in the project before carving. Even better, install one on all of your router bits.

[bjbethke]

In looking at your photos, please explain the purpose of the brass washers.

When you first start your carving. The CW unit requires you to load all the bits one at a time to load the data in the CW controller for the project. The washers or a collar is used to maintain the same spacing when it is used to make the carving. Brass is soft and won't damage your collet or the bits. The old collets that were used when the CW unit was designed - kept the bits locked in the collets.

[Digitalwoodshop]

Can ANYONE please give me some guidance on how to set my bit length in my Rock Chuck? PLEASE!

As far as I know the only bit used in a rock chuck that is sensitive to length is the 1/8th inch cutting bit. And for that bit, I have found that the shortest length I can get and still lock the set screw on the ring will work. The set screw is very close to where the cutting edge starts.

See my picture where the locking rings sits on the 1/8th inch cutting bit. Sometimes it is trial and error. The machine will FAULT OUT if the bit is TOO LONG and it hits the flipping plate before it expects it... Sometimes bending the plate down.

All the other bits I use the locking ring just to keep the length consistent when doing multi bit projects.

I do the bulk of my Plastic Tag cutting with the very cheap eBay Circuit Board bits held in a Roto Zip holder. I use the 1/16th end mill bit but tell the machine I am using the 1/4 inch bull nose bit to keep the cut rate in 1st gear. I then just call up the depth and even do multi pass if needed.

Never use the Roto Zip BITS in the machine, they are too soft and can bend then being out of shape damage the machine and even start a fire....


AL

[djarboe]

As far as I know the only bit used in a rock chuck that is sensitive to length is the 1/8th inch cutting bit. And for that bit, I have found that the shortest length I can get and still lock the set screw on the ring will work. The set screw is very close to where the cutting edge starts.

See my picture where the locking rings sits on the 1/8th inch cutting bit. Sometimes it is trial and error. The machine will FAULT OUT if the bit is TOO LONG and it hits the flipping plate before it expects it... Sometimes bending the plate down.

All the other bits I use the locking ring just to keep the length consistent when doing multi bit projects.

I do the bulk of my Plastic Tag cutting with the very cheap eBay Circuit Board bits held in a Roto Zip holder. I use the 1/16th end mill bit but tell the machine I am using the 1/4 inch bull nose bit to keep the cut rate in 1st gear. I then just call up the depth and even do multi pass if needed.

Never use the Roto Zip BITS in the machine, they are too soft and can bend then being out of shape damage the machine and even start a fire....


AL

Interesting. When the Rock Chuck guy was still answering the phone, I asked him about the bit set up. He recommended just leaving the carving bit in place, without using the cutting bit. He said the machine would readjust automatically when the cutting bit touched the bit plate during the actual cutting phase. Do you agree with this?
He also sent me a photo of how to position the slot in the bit when using CW bits. He shows just placing the top of the slot just at the bottom edge of the Rock Chuck. Does this make sense?

Dave