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Thread: Cupped after carving

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Jan 2009
    Location
    Denver, Colorado, United States
    Posts
    273

    Default Cupped after carving

    I had a 3' length of 1x10 (0.75 x 9.25) board of pine from Lowes which I carved, and had a 8" x 24" rectangle plaque cut from it. I had made sure there was no noticeable cupping or crowning or other warpage when I bought the raw wood. After I carved it and had it cut out, it sat overnight in my cold and dry "shop" (in the unfinished basement here in Colorado). About 10 hours later this morning, I got it out to start finishing it, some sanding and staining.

    And I noticed a very noticeable cupping - at least 1/2" and possibly a full 3/4" from the top/bottom edges to the center. Definitely would be noticeable if I gave it to my customer to hang on their wall. No way I can deliver it as is.

    I have heard that with raw wood, one can sometimes use the method of putting a board in morning grass, and the dew will moisten the one face while the sun heats/dries the opposite face. But I don't know that this would work with a carved board, without causing problems with the carved region. Does anyone have any suggestions? Or am I going to have to get another board and spend another 4 hours carving this plaque again?
    - Ken
    Later model "B" Machine with CarveTight and Rubber belt upgrades
    RNB Model "A" Dust Collection, Scanning Probe, Rotary Jig
    Designer 3, Conforming Vectors, STL Importer, DXF Importer, Rotary, Basic, Pattern Editor (Probe), Advanced 3D, Centerline

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Oct 2010
    Location
    Cornwall Ontario
    Posts
    898

    Default

    grain stress from removing a lot from 1 side will do this. I glue up my blanks no boards more than 3 inch wide. You can try warming the back side with a heater this will sometimes pull it back. Seal your carve if it works. This will help prevent it from doing it again. Seal front back and all around. you can also glue baltic birch to the back to pull it back.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Feb 2007
    Location
    SouthWest Ohio
    Posts
    2,346

    Default

    I probably should not say too much as I'm an amateur at this. A board will cup toward the carved side as you found out big-time.
    Sand off some wood on the back will help. I have poured water of the board and after draining it, clamped it a little beyond straight.
    After it dried I covered both sides with diluted sanding sealer(twice) to hold it straight. It was not perfect, but it was pretty good.

    Again, I'm no expert. I hope someone has more to say.
    Ken,
    V-1, 2, & 3

    When the People fear their Government, there is Tyranny.
    When the Government fears the People, there is Liberty.
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  4. #4
    Join Date
    Nov 2012
    Location
    Galva Kansas
    Posts
    1,005

    Default

    There was recently a thread where we discussed this problem. You may want to check it out: http://forum.carvewright.com/showthr...ving-1x12-pine
    Kansas Wood Shop
    Disabled Veteran owned and operated
    Visit www.kansaswood.com
    A machine with rock, CS machine, Designer 3, centerline, conforming vectors

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Location
    Nuevo, CA
    Posts
    1,854

    Default

    Tree rings want to flatten out over time. To minimize this - especially with pine - rip the board into narrower pieces and grue it back together again flipping alternate pieces.
    Clint
    CarveWright StartU team member
    Web Site WWW.clintscustomcarving.com

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Jan 2009
    Location
    Denver, Colorado, United States
    Posts
    273

    Default

    That seems to be a common answer. Unfortunately, without a planer, I am not really able to glue up multiple boards to use smaller stock (or ripped up larger stock). I have tried a few times, thinking if I cut it from the one board, it should glue up flat and not require a planer. (And then thinking I just screwed up the first time, I tried again, and again, lol). Whether I am screwing it up, or it is just something all glue-ups require, until I get a planer I won't be able to do that. :/
    - Ken
    Later model "B" Machine with CarveTight and Rubber belt upgrades
    RNB Model "A" Dust Collection, Scanning Probe, Rotary Jig
    Designer 3, Conforming Vectors, STL Importer, DXF Importer, Rotary, Basic, Pattern Editor (Probe), Advanced 3D, Centerline

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Dec 2010
    Location
    Coeur D'Alene Idaho
    Posts
    691

    Default

    I don't have a jointer either but I made a jig from here www.woodworkingtips.com/etips/2005/01/28/wb and it works great.

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Dec 2014
    Location
    Kaukauna, Wisconsin
    Posts
    767

    Default

    When doing glue up panels, I like to use table salt to help keep thing right. As I glue pieces on together I sprinkle a little salt between the two. The salt gives me something with some bite to hold the wood from sliding around. The salt will dissolve in the glue never to be heard from again.

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Nov 2007
    Location
    Redmond, Or
    Posts
    360

    Default

    Ken,

    If you have a router and table you can set it up to square up the edges. Of course you have to cut them on your table saw first, but then use the router to clean up the edges just as good as a joiner. Hope that helps.

    Mike
    All Gave Some,
    Some Gave All.

    My computer configuration and software used:
    Gigabyte GA-990XA-UD3 Motherboard, AMD FX 6-core Processor Black Edition, 32 Gig DDR 3 Ram, Gigabyte HD 6450 Video Card with 1 Gig DDR 3 ram, Windows 10
    Designer 2.007, Designer 3.102, Pattern Editor, Centerline, Conforming Vectors, 2d Tools, 3d Tools, DXF Importer, STL Importer and Rotary Jig.

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