Head won't go down

[t-townwilson]

I put scales on top of piece of 8/4 maple and got a reading of 48.2

[bergerud]

Well, I guess that makes the clutch the prime suspect. Do you have the thin washers from the keypad side post tops? If you do, you could try using them to stiffen the clutch spring. They fit behind the handle.

It may be that the clutch disc is cracked. You may have to take it apart. Maybe someone else with more clutch experience could advise what to do next.

[fwharris]

Yes, remove the crank handle and spring. On the crank handle shaft there should be one to several thin washers. They are used to either add (more washers higher head pressure) or lower (less is less ) head pressure. To add more washers you will find them on the top of the 4 corner posts. I believe CarveWright recommends to use the ones off of the right side posts.

While you have the crank handle out work some bearing/axle grease in behind the clutch plate, the flat washer on the gear.

http://store.carvewright.com/home.php?cat=389

[t-townwilson]

can I use same size washers obtained at Lowe's or the like, or is there something special about the washers on the posts?

[fwharris]

can I use same size washers obtained at Lowe's or the like, or is there something special about the washers on the posts?

They are thinner than the STD washer and are sized for the crank handle shaft.

[t-townwilson]

I removed two washers from the top of the posts and placed them on screw that connects the handle to the shaft. The pressure increased to 53. Not sure if adding two additional washers will alleviate the problem, but it does seem better.

[Gary Koval]

If I can just say, after having this problem a couple of years ago, I found that shooting the bearings at the bottom of the two screw posts with oil solved my problem. The bearings were so dry with dust, that working them with oil got them moving better and stopped the problem of pre-mature clicking so to speak...Gary

[Mugsowner]

That's a great idea Gary. If you have not done this I would recommend it. I would take it one step farther and make sure all moving parts for head elevation are lubed up. I do think you are looking at a clutch issue with such low head pressure at different heights. However the head on going down all the way,I am still leaning towards to a issue at the bottom causing increased drag, causing head to clutch out. I understand the head goes up and down fine unless near the point at which it stops moving. Leading me to feel that the issue is somewhere in that area.

[t-townwilson]

still a no-go. I took off the side panels and oiled the point at which the screws enter the bottom of the machine (is this the bearing location?). I have placed extra washers on crank screw. I have visually inspected the mechanism, and I am totally stumped! Thanks for all the suggestions.

[mtylerfl]

I'm thinking this is still either a post alignment problem or head out of level problem (since you cleaned and lubed the posts thoroughly already, and inspected/adjusted the clutch). This should have been a very simple fix. Most folks who have this problem this time of year is due to a cold shop...but you say your shop is warm, so that can't be it. Another common cause is the lithium grease is all "gummy" and stiff mixed with sawdust. In that case, a thorough clean and lube easily remedies the problem (along with never ever using the grease again...use dry lube only!).

At the moment, the only other thing I can think of is to check for cracks around any of the four top bolts of the head. If so, maybe the posts cannot be aligned properly.

EDIT: One more thing...Have you checked the tie rod underneath the machine?

"Check to see if the tie rod between the two leadscrews has sufficient play.While the machine is still on its back, locate the leadscrew tie rod. This tie rod (with bevel gears) connects the two leadscrews on either side of the machine. The leadscrews drive the head up and down as the crank handle is turned. Grab the tierod and verify that there is side to side play in the rod. The amount of play will vary between machines, but the important thing to note is that there is some side to side play. The play should be minimal but apparent. If the rod is locked side to side turn the crank handle one full turn and try again. If the rod is still locked in place please contact CarveWright technical support (713-473-6572) for additional instructions."