Lumber choices for newbies?

[Jen Hudspeth]

I have been tinkering with the CarveWright for awhile now... but just recently own one of my own

What are the best woods to use when doing lettering... we have found on the yellow pine that it flakes away the top of some of the lettering... (pictures below)... Any suggestions?!?

[CNC Carver]

Try putting everything in a carve region and add feather.

[Dale]

I have found that alder carves very nice and it is cheaper than pine.

[Bigtyme]

Don't forget to use the "Draft" command (especially on raster carves). It will ease the edges a little and help with chipping. I also use the "best" level bit optimization....

[Jen Hudspeth]

Thanks Will try those things now

[Proctorw]

Alder is good as is Cherry. Alder is about 1/2 the price here in Dallas, but harder to find in the wider sizes. The lumber guys call Alder the Poor Man's Cherry. I have cut crosses in both and when I look at my inventory, I have a hard time telling which is alder and which is cherry. Maple and mahogany also carves nice. I also choose the wood based on color but with the woods I have listed, you go from light to dark.

[mtylerfl]

Thanks Will try those things now

For readily available and "inexpensive wood" Select Pine carves very well (it is kiln dried and clear grained - no knots). Number 2 Pine doesn't do as well - it is often too wet, pitchy and lots of knots. NOTE: Select Pine is NOT cheap costwise...you'll pay almost as much for it as Maple costs, depending on your part of the country.

Your photos do show a couple things that you didn't do (but should). It has already been mentioned to use the Draft feature assigned to your lettering. This is a feature I requested many, many years ago directly to the inventor of the machine. Within two weeks, he sent me a Designer version with that feature added. It made all the difference for raised letter carving as well as for any "fragile" raised carvings.

In addition, it appears from your photos you are not uploading to the memory card at the "Best" or "Optimal" setting. There is a lot of "chatter" around your lettering. Some (or most) of that is caused from not using a draft setting on your letters, but is also caused by using lower-quality carve settings during card upload. I always use at least the "Best" setting if I have raised letters.

By the way, there are two different "Draft" settings...one is for assigning an angle to the sides of raised carvings during your project layout...the other is the "Draft" carve quality setting when uploading to your memory card (that particular Draft is the lowest quality carve setting and is seldom used). Just mentioning this to help allay any possible confusion.

[cestout]

I do my test carves and some projects like signs in #2 pine (cutting around the knots). Other than that I use poplar and alder. Alder has much more interesting grain than cherry. The rest has been covered, best bit setting and drat in Designer and upload at best or optimal.
Clint

[gashawk]

I've carved several large carvings with yellow pine construction 2x10's. Its clear grain and reasonably priced. I have a large jointer and planer that can really improve boards.. The grain can be overwhelming. The grain pattern can turn horses into zebras and ropes into snakes. If the grain is bark side up it can flake that can leave shinny spots but some boards carve well. However finished with colonial pine stain and Polyurethane for a rustic look, I am very pleased.

Avoid brown ring knots or glue the knot in place before carving.(and as has been said, use a little draft, optimal. Optimal will make the top of the letters thicker)

[rmock]

I like to use poplar, it carves well and is very easy to work with, we make alot of plaques and this is what we use for all of them. we have our boards made by a local sawmill. 3 or 4 4 inch boards edgeglued up to 14"wide 8 to 10 ft long planed and sanded. Runs about 4.50 a ft. here is one of our latest designs