lithopane sled making

[luckettg]

I am having more difficulty making a sled for the acrylic than was expected. Using the Tips & Tricks (Lithopane (Lithophane) Carving 101) method of carving out a recessed region for the acrylic to sit it has presented some challenges. I am using the latest version of Designer. To my way of thinking, a straight router bit would be the best but Designer will not allow me to choose the bit and wants to do the cut with a carving bit, which is a hour or more. Best was over 3 hours.
In Designer, I first made a rectangle of the blank size, then a carve region, setting the depth. What am I doing wrong?

I can route a recess with my router in about a half hour, including setting up edge guides.

[DocWheeler]

You are correct in thinking the straight bit would be best.
Use connected lines to draw the path you want the bit to take and then assign the bit.
Don't try to hog-out the full bit width, leave a little overlap.

[fwharris]

If you are using a carve region that is the same as trying to carve a pattern and it will ask for the 1/16" carving bit. If you have the 3/16" carving bit you can change the default bit in the "board settings" "pattern bit" and it will speed up the carving time.

Another option is to set up a pocket cut using vector lines and select a straight bit. this would be the same as using your router to make the recess..

[brdad]

This is one of the sleds I made for lithophanes using 3/8" flat bit for the recess and the 1/8" straight bit for access holes in the corners. Ya, the little corners do need to be cleaned off with a chisel - I could have fixed that, but it's easier to chisel.

[luckettg]

I remember seeing that method before but not where I saw it. I have had my CW since 2007 but never have used this. Tips & Tricks or here in the forum? I am looking for the lesson now. Thanks for reminding me of the method.

[SteveNelson46]

I am having more difficulty making a sled for the acrylic than was expected. Using the Tips & Tricks (Lithopane (Lithophane) Carving 101) method of carving out a recessed region for the acrylic to sit it has presented some challenges. I am using the latest version of Designer. To my way of thinking, a straight router bit would be the best but Designer will not allow me to choose the bit and wants to do the cut with a carving bit, which is a hour or more. Best was over 3 hours.
In Designer, I first made a rectangle of the blank size, then a carve region, setting the depth. What am I doing wrong?

I can route a recess with my router in about a half hour, including setting up edge guides.

A carve region will take a long time and leave the sides with a taper. A pocket cut is probably the best. If you have the 2D tools add-on you can use "Path Offset". Draw a rectangle the size of your blank. With it selected, select "Path Offset" from the tools menu. Offset the path to the inside the width of the straight cutting bit you plan to use minus a little for overlap. For example if you use the 1/8" cutting bit offset .1". Repeat this process until you get to the center. Assign the 1/8" cutting bit to all of the rectangle offsets and set the depth. Be sure to "inset" the first rectangle to compensate for the radius of the bit. For the 1/8" bit use .063. If you don't have the 2D tools you can use the grid to draw successively smaller concentric rectangles and then assign a bit. If you give me the size of your blank I will give you an example.

[Smoken D]

When I made mine I just recall using a 10" wide x 18" long (7" rule) 3/4" MDF for a piece of 8x10 litho. In designer made a 8x10 rectangle, centered it on the 10x18 board and set a depth of .25 for the .25" litho. The litho fits in just right and use a screw driver to take it out after the carve. Believe the 1/16 carving bit what used and did not take very long to carve out. But I made it several years ago, still use it today.

[SteveNelson46]

A carve region will take a long time and leave the sides with a taper. A pocket cut is probably the best. If you have the 2D tools add-on you can use "Path Offset". Draw a rectangle the size of your blank. With it selected, select "Path Offset" from the tools menu. Offset the path to the inside the width of the straight cutting bit you plan to use minus a little for overlap. For example if you use the 1/8" cutting bit offset .1". Repeat this process until you get to the center. Assign the 1/8" cutting bit to all of the rectangle offsets and set the depth. Be sure to "inset" the first rectangle to compensate for the radius of the bit. For the 1/8" bit use .063. If you don't have the 2D tools you can use the grid to draw successively smaller concentric rectangles and then assign a bit. If you give me the size of your blank I will give you an example.

Here is a link to a short video (no sound) using the grid method.

https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B0j...it?usp=sharing

[henry1]

Here is a link to a short video (no sound) using the grid method.

https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B0j...it?usp=sharing

Thank you steve I have been wanting to know this one I did forget about this I never think of using the grid

[luckettg]

I decided to just let the machine use the 1/8 ball end bit to make this cutout. Everything was going well until it tried to get the bit position. The little flapper came out and the Z axis looked like it was over driving down, pushing the flapper down, then stalling. The LED says "Z Axis Stall, Err E06-0324. Press STOP". I am beginning to regret upgrading to the 2.004 version as the machine was at least working well with the 1.181(? latest old version what ever that number is). I am not sure how to proceed with this now.