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Thread: Crack in z truck

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Jan 2013
    Location
    Helena, Montana, United States
    Posts
    316

    Default Crack in z truck

    So I recently had a series of Z stall errors and took my machine apart. I first noticed it was sticking and took the motor our and it is spinning free. I next noticed I had an e clip off the bottom pulley and fixed that. Still had issues. I lubed everything up and then noticed that there is a crack near the top wheel. I have posted a picture. I assume this is the issue. Am I correct in this thought? Also is there a trick to getting the screws out for the wheels. I have tried and they all just want to turn and strip out.

    THanks,
    ShaneClick image for larger version. 

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  2. #2
    Join Date
    Nov 2008
    Location
    Vancouver Island
    Posts
    8,193

    Default

    Here is the method I use:

    http://forum.carvewright.com/showthread.php?20413-250-Maintenance-Requirements&p=176044#post176044

    That crack in the truck must be from either over tightening or rolling over "stuff". You may need a new truck. (A quick weld could fix it if you know a welder.)

    When I tighten the truck rollers onto the rails, I just tighten them so I can barely turn (slip) them with my fingers.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Mar 2013
    Location
    Fort Worth, Texas
    Posts
    407

    Default

    Looks like you need a new Z truck assembly. As for the bearings on the Z go to the carvewright web site and in the maintenance section find the PDF on replacing the Z truck. Paragraph 9 explains that the bearing screws are permanently glued and explains how to handle this.

    OOPS! bergerud is just too fast for me...
    George

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Aug 2008
    Location
    The Great Texas Gulf Coast
    Posts
    5,314

    Default

    Per lead engineer:

    "It should be replaced and he needs to drill out the screws with a 3/16" bit."
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  5. #5
    Join Date
    Nov 2008
    Location
    Vancouver Island
    Posts
    8,193

    Default

    How much is a new "bare" truck? Is there a part number for it or do you have to buy the whole assembly as it seems according to the parts list? (There is no point in taking the bearings off at all if you have to replace the whole assembly.)

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Jan 2013
    Location
    Helena, Montana, United States
    Posts
    316

    Default

    I'm have to order a whole new assembly, but I need to loosen them up enough to take it off that is my only problem. I don't have a skinny wrench so I will have to order a new assembly and use the one that comes with it.

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Nov 2008
    Location
    Vancouver Island
    Posts
    8,193

    Default

    At least you will have a wrench. It is an important CW tool. You may have been able to back off the roller and have saved the truck if you had had one.

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Aug 2008
    Location
    north ont Canada
    Posts
    2,365

    Default

    the z truck,, to bad you just get the z truck with the bearing for the spindle only Yourself Upgrade ***A907 Required***Our price: $159.99



    Last edited by henry1; 07-29-2013 at 08:38 PM.
    Henry

    Every one has a photographic memory. Some just don't have film.

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Jun 2013
    Location
    Rochester, New York
    Posts
    39

    Default

    Mine just cracked too... straight across the front of the truck starting just below the sensor and on the opposite side...

    Personally... I think's it from the feed rates on the bits... using a 3/16 inch bit, taking 1/8 of an inch swipe each pass shouldn't be overheating the bit and I was hearing a strain and vibration in flex shaft and cut motor.

    I think I'm done... it's time to get a real machine instead of a toy.
    So I can have some control over what it doing.
    Going to fix it and sell it.

    This is getting to be a $200 every time I turn around deal...

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Jan 2007
    Location
    NE PA USA
    Posts
    9,984

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by rbrown View Post
    Mine just cracked too... straight across the front of the truck starting just below the sensor and on the opposite side...

    Personally... I think's it from the feed rates on the bits... using a 3/16 inch bit, taking 1/8 of an inch swipe each pass shouldn't be overheating the bit and I was hearing a strain and vibration in flex shaft and cut motor.

    I think I'm done... it's time to get a real machine instead of a toy.
    So I can have some control over what it doing.
    Going to fix it and sell it.

    This is getting to be a $200 every time I turn around deal...
    I understand your frustration.

    Just a question before you go... I want to understand this better.... Please don't be offended by my question... I too agree that a lack of feed rate is a disadvantage. I cheat by telling I use a 1/4 inch bit but vector cut with a 1/16th. It would be a big selling point to be able to select the feed rate in a choice of selections or even a menu slider control. But that is a different topic.

    So my question is... What type of projects have you been cutting.... Plastic? Litho? Oak? My belief is that doing litho's and plastic is just too hard on the machine.

    I am in no way blaming the user.... I just want to understand...

    Thanks,

    AL
    Last edited by Digitalwoodshop; 07-31-2013 at 01:17 PM.
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