Al, was this what you were looking at? Yep, just a little of the plastic money will fix. Good fix Al!!!!
Al, was this what you were looking at? Yep, just a little of the plastic money will fix. Good fix Al!!!!
Thanks for posting the Picture... Just getting into the shop, Road Trip day... Got another big $1.5K+ tag order.. WOW...
And thanks for the advice on the USB... I believe that I am rushing it too..... I will work on it another day.... In the mean time I will continue to back up to USB Hard Drives.... Thanks for the Advice...
AL
Favorite Saying.... "It's ALL About the Brass Roller"..... And "Use MASKING TAPE" for board skipping in the X or breaking bits.
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How do you get the screws out of the z truck bearings? They seem glued in and won't budge.
You have to heat them up, they have permanent loctite on them. I am not sure how to apply the heat... Al will chime in on how to get them off.
You need a thin wrench to remove the two screws on the right side facing the Z trunk. See picture Once the right bearings are removed you can remove the trunk. The left side bearing takes a flat screwdriver to hold while you unscrew but that's has to be done with Z trunk off..
You can try heating the head of the screws on the right side with a soldering iron and as a last resort drill off the head of the screw then use vise grips to remove the the remaining screw from the bearing. You can find replacement cap screws or hex head screws at your local hardware store.
GREAT Pictures and Method.... THANKS.... New Working Hours in the Shop... Breakfast, Very Long DOG WALK and Relax by the Creek then Lunch then.... WORK... Try to quit by 5 PM and take the evening off... At least that's the plan..... So any calls, Mid Day is best.... Late Night is only if Required... Like the 4 orders I have today..... Working on getting healthy...
I have also Drilled them out to get the Truck off then like posted above the screw stud can be heated direct with a soldering iron of small torch and with vice grips remove the screw from the bearing.
And like posted above, The Offset drilled hole is designed to pivot and clamp the bearing on the rail. So properly installed it will have the flat of the nut facing out when the bearing is properly closed all the way. In the past I used nail polish to mark the outer flat closest to the screw hole.. Now I drill a tiny hole in the flat facing out so it is easy to see.
My suggested method to install the bearing is to snug the screw up with a quality #2 Phillips Screwdriver or if you upgrade to metric Allen screws. The original screws are soft and easily strip. So snug the screw with the wrench on the outside flat. Then back off the wrench slightly about 1/8 turn then snug the screwdriver then hold and tighten the wrench. Too LOOSE and the bearing will rotate... Too Tight and the Screw will SNAP OFF.... Just Right.... You have MASTERED the Bearing install....
Good Luck,
AL
Last edited by Digitalwoodshop; 10-17-2012 at 12:03 PM.
Favorite Saying.... "It's ALL About the Brass Roller"..... And "Use MASKING TAPE" for board skipping in the X or breaking bits.
Follow ME on Facebook http://www.facebook.com/pages/Accoun...50019051727074
www.PoconoDigitalWoodshop.com
www.AccountabilityTag.com