Ok, here is something I have been having troubles getting done where I am happy with. I am looking to get that hard glass finish that you get on guitars. I have tried Laquer. The guy at the store talked me into the brush on type. I was not happy with the outcome. I applied many thin coats and sanded them with the finest sand paper I could aquire. I also tried Shelac with no success. I was curious if the problem was "brushable" Laquer. Should I purchase a sprayer, or can I use the spray can application?
Ok, here is something I have been having troubles getting done where I am happy with. I am looking to get that hard glass finish that you get on guitars. I have tried Laquer. The guy at the store talked me into the brush on type. I was not happy with the outcome. I applied many thin coats and sanded them with the finest sand paper I could aquire. I also tried Shelac with no success. I was curious if the problem was "brushable" Laquer. Should I purchase a sprayer, or can I use the spray can application?
Lacquer is a very difficult medium to work with, however when done correctly it provides a great finish. One of the reasons so many people work with varnish or poly because it is a lot easier to work with. For that glass like finish you will need to dedicate some time to "rubbing out the finish" when using lacquer. You can find several different videos on the web on how this is done. For the guitar think more in terms of a table top. It is something that won't have glasses and plates put on it, but it will be handled repeatedly. A good varnish would be my choice. I am a huge fan of lacquer and I have been using it for years, but it takes a lot of paitence and practice. You might try one of the instrument building forums and ask how they do their's, or PM liquidguitars or Ike (both on this forum) for their tips.
I have been reading the book "Understanding Wood Finishing" by Bob Flexner and just attended a finishing class at my local Woodcraft Shop. At the class I found that the type of sandpaper you use makes a difference. On wood you might want to use an aluminum oxide that is open or sterated. Stearated means it is able the release the wood dust. Norton 3X brand is good. If you tried a really fine black sandpaper chances are that it is a wet sandpaper that needs to be lubricated with oil or water.
In the class on Sunday we got a really shiny looking finish by starting with P120 sandpaper and going through P150 P220 to P320 and then sanding three coats of water based high performance poly by General Finishes. Sanding with P320 in between each coat. Then ending off sanding with P400 after the third coat to get a somewhat satin finish. Water based is not very durable though and it also is not water vapor resistant. Going though each sandpaper is essential and it only takes 20 to 25 strokes over each area.
Alan
Last edited by Alan Malmstrom; 06-28-2011 at 01:03 PM.
Finishing....
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