Results 1 to 9 of 9

Thread: Staining

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Aug 2009
    Location
    Houston, Tx
    Posts
    32

    Default Staining

    Probably on the forum somewhere, just can't find it. How do you keep the cut ends of the boards from staining darker then the other edges.

    Thanks

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Location
    Wisconsin
    Posts
    581

    Default

    A pre-stain conditioner works very well, Minwax and other make it.

    It's a clear thin product you can apply before your stain. It also works pretty well to prevent pine from getting that blotchy look.

    Thin shellac wash coats works too depending on what your using and the look you are trying to achieve.

    I would recommend you try the pre-stain conditioner though, it's simple to use.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Aug 2009
    Location
    Houston, Tx
    Posts
    32

    Default stain

    I do use the pre stain conditioner especially on pine. trying to double up on the ends on single coat the rest.

    Thanks

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Feb 2008
    Location
    Indian Lake, Ohio - Rts 33 & 235
    Posts
    3,967

    Default Stain

    Doing "Test Stains" on scrap, is well worth the time.
    AskBud
    AskBud Downloads =>> CLICK HERE
    Lesson added
    7/15/2012 Titles begin with "2D-3D Build a Pattern-Part-3"

    CW Vacuum Head Project =>> CLICK HERE
    AskBud Home Page =>> CLICK HERE <<=PC lessons or CW lessons

    More than 1250 AskBud patterns
    vvv-CLICK BELOW-vvv
    http://store.carvewright.com/manufac...ufacturerid=29

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Location
    Wisconsin
    Posts
    581

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by trplbogie View Post
    I do use the pre stain conditioner especially on pine. trying to double up on the ends on single coat the rest.

    Thanks
    If the pre-stain conditioner is not cutting it, try some shellac thinned down with alcohol, or some zinnser sanding sealer thinned down. Do it on a scrap first, because I'm not sure of the results. Remember, this is only a theory .......unless it works.

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Oct 2009
    Location
    Rockland County, NY
    Posts
    188

    Default

    I find that if you let the MINWAX conditioner dry overnight you will notice a bigger difference. The difference being less stain will be absorbed. I know the can says coat within 2 hours but that is not really the truth. There is an excellent book which you can get at your library titled "Understanding Wood Finishing" by Bob Flexner. You could coat the ends the night before and if you are staining a wood like pine, condition the faces and edges according the the instructions on the can.

    Biggest thing is test this out before you dive into a finished project

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Aug 2009
    Location
    Houston, Tx
    Posts
    32

    Default

    thanks...look for more ideas

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Oct 2007
    Location
    Nacogdoches, TX
    Posts
    80

    Default

    You may already know this, but it helps to sand end grain through the full range of grits, ending with 400 grit. The smoother the surface the better staining results. I work with a lot of white oak (because I cut my own lumber) and get good results. I seldome use conditioners and still get a nice stain finish.

    Joe

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Dec 2008
    Location
    White Oak , PA>
    Posts
    196

    Default

    We use Sherwin Williams BAC wiping stain. Try it, You will be pleasantly surprised at the results. Continuous color without the problems of other stains.....We use it everyday for our product which demands a constant color shade on all edges and surfaces.
    Custom Built Quilt Hangers and Quilt Racks.




Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •