Problems with corner posts and scale pressure

[Gary Koval]

Just received my unit back from Sears for a broken Z-truck. Couldn't wind the head up or down and found that our friends, at UPS must have shook it up pretty good. Anyway, I got the head lined up using a 2' level, and now when winding up I have a lot of drag, to the point that I'm afraid I will break the tierod assembly. Cranking it down is relatively easy, however, it clicks about every third revolution of the crank. I cannot get any more than 52lbs of pressure on the scale. I have added and subtracted the washers on the clutch crank handle from none to 4 and I am in the range of 32-52lbs of scale pressure during the adding and subtracting of washers. I should add that I have lubed all posts, leadscrews, and tierod assembly with white lith. When I losened the 4 posts I noticed something perhaps out of place (see Pic1). I believe that the washer that is on the post, and is the exact size as the clutch handle washers, should be eliminated and the flat washer on the bolt should be on the top of the post between it and the lateral stabilizer casting assembly. Pic 2 shows the order in which I removed the bolts from each verticle guide rod.
Pic 3 shows how hard the machine must have been dropped to bend up that section of the plastic.
So before I send this back to Sears any ideas, on the low scale pressure and the order of washers? Perhaps the "All Knowing Al Who" could lend some expertise!

[DocWheeler]

Gary,

With the clearance needed for the newer Z-motor fins LHR is putting washers in various places to get the cover high enough. The washer on top of the post is normal for that activity.

The dropping of the machine hard enough to cause that damage did not help the four column alignment and is probably the cause of your problem in my opinion.

[Gary Koval]

But the washers that were on top of the posts and underneath the top were so big and skinny like shims more than washers really. I quess the question I have and could not find elsewere in the forum was are the smaller, thicker washers the ones that should be on top of the post and below the top? The thinner ones look like they might have put there by the techs at Sears. I don't remember that fine a washer being in between there originally. I tried both washers and could not see a difference in the clutch cranking down.

[DocWheeler]

Gary,

Mine just has the thick washer under the bolt-heads.

[PCW]

Gary,

It goes back together just like your first picture. My has them on all four posts like in your picture. If you are not looking for the shims when you remove the side covers they normally fall out and are lost.

But the washers that were on top of the posts and underneath the top were so big and skinny like shims more than washers really. I quess the question I have and could not find elsewere in the forum was are the smaller, thicker washers the ones that should be on top of the post and below the top? The thinner ones look like they might have put there by the techs at Sears. I don't remember that fine a washer being in between there originally. I tried both washers and could not see a difference in the clutch cranking down.

[Gary Koval]

Just didn't seem right to me. I'll let it go the way it is. Here I come Sears!
Gary

[Digitalwoodshop]

WOW.... Looks like a attempt to level the head to prevent binding....

I took the sander to my cover to remove the excess plastic after installing the new Z bundle. The washers would have been good....

I am wondering if shipping damage caused the first problem, a tweaked frame.... Bent....

For pressure problems I would try loosening all 4 smooth vertical rods and turning them 1/4 turn to remove any marks in the smooth from binding....

AL

[Ike]

WOW.... Looks like a attempt to level the head to prevent binding....

I took the sander to my cover to remove the excess plastic after installing the new Z bundle. The washers would have been good....

I am wondering if shipping damage caused the first problem, a tweaked frame.... Bent....

For pressure problems I would try loosening all 4 smooth vertical rods and turning them 1/4 turn to remove any marks in the smooth from binding....

AL

You know guys I was pretending this does not happen I am waiting for my CC that is refurbished and being UPS ........Oh I hope it doesn't come all busted up.

Ike

[dbfletcher]

You know guys I was pretending this does not happen I am waiting for my CC that is refurbished and being UPS ........Oh I hope it doesn't come all busted up.

Ike

I really just dont get all this "shippers" bashing. I've ordered 1000's of fairly sensative computer equipment packages over the years..... and I have only had 1 package that was visible damaged and one that actually was destroyed.

If the shipping company where even 1/10 as reckless as this forum makes them out.. i cant imagine any of them being in business anymore (UPS, Fedex, or USPS). I'm sure there are probably public stats out there for the rate of damage to packages... but I would have to think it is most likely less than 1 in 10000. The server I order are generally in the 75 to 125 lbs range so it is similar to the carvewright.

As someone said in another post.. if there is a lot of damage fom shipping, LHR need to revise there packing methods.

Doug Fletcher

[dbfletcher]

Well I for one have had to shell out a large amount of money because the "shipper" broke the post and tie rods and even though it was insured through them the "shipper" they denied the claim.

If you have read any of these post I guess there is 2 in 1000? Well in this thread there is...............

Ike

Thanks Ike... I guess I've been lucky then. I didnt have any issue with UPS fully refunding the insurred value on either the destroyed package.. or the damaged one. I was suprised at how smooth and easy it was. Filed the claim... 4 days later had the check in hand. (both were via UPS btw)

Doug Fletcher