rock chuck

[jab73180]

hey all, i am pondering getting a rock chuck for my cw seems how i have the y truck off my machine replacing the bearings. now would be the best time to do it, but dont know how well the rock works, or even if there are any left. anybody out there have some time with it or is it to new.

-Jason

[Rick P]

The "ROCK" ships next week. I don't think anyone other than Ron has tried them yet.

[Bob Morris]

The "ROCK" ships next week. I don't think anyone other than Ron has tried them yet.

I don't know about a shipping date but if you viewed the short YouTube clip, that was running on one of my machines.
We did a 2 1/2 hour carve in 3/4" cherry, with an average carve depth of 1/2" . The "ROCK" is just that, I've ordered one for each of my machines.
Bob M.

[rjustice]

The "ROCK" ships next week. I don't think anyone other than Ron has tried them yet.

They are on 4 machines including mine, and are everything i had hoped for you can read comments and info on www.carvespot.com/forum

Click on the more information link for information and to see the Youtube video that was shot on Bob's machine.

You can order on my website www.cw-parts.com

As soon as i get the first batch packaged (monday) I will be producing a video showing good practices for removing and replacing the Chuck. If you subscribe to my youtube video you will get an announcement whenever i upload new video.

Thanks Guys and Gals!

Ron

[liquidguitars]

Ron,
we talked a bit about the calibrate function of the 3/8" bit have you tested the 3/8 bit with the 1/4" shank? this could be a deal breaker for a replacement QC. What is Calibrate you ask? calibrate lets you fine tune your carvwright if your CW is not measuring correctly you need calibrate.

I think if anyone upgrade to the new Kevlar belts or you will be building a advanced pattern you will need to
calibrate at some time down the road.

I think its only fair to point out this issue as i am not a tester and can not evaluate Ron's 1/4" shank only QC for us on the forum.

Questions:

1. Will the 3/8 bit using a 1/4 shank cutout pockets in maple .8" deep without any issues?

2. Will the 3/8 bit with the 1/4 shank calibrate the Carvewright the same as the OEM 3/8x1/2" bit?

3. using the Rock QC will the carving bit slip or come loose after a 3 hr carve @.8" passes?

I would like to think it would work the same.. but we will need conformation. If yes your good to go

LG

[rjustice]

Ron,
we talked a bit about the calibrate function of the 3/8" bit have you tested the 3/8 bit with the 1/4" shank? this could be a deal breaker for a replacement QC. What is Calibrate you ask? calibrate lets you fine tune your carvwright if your CW is not measuring correctly you need calibrate.

I think if anyone upgrade to the new Kevlar belts or you will be building a advanced pattern you will need to
calibrate at some time down the road.

I think its only fair to point out this issue as i am not a tester and can not evaluate Ron's 1/4" shank only QC for us on the forum.

Questions:

1. will the 3/8 bit using a 1/4 shank cutout pockets in maple 1" deep without any issues?

2. with the 3/8 bit with the 1/4 shank calibrate the Carvewright the same as the OEM 3/8x1/2" bit?

3. using the Rock QC will the carving bit slip or come loose after a 3 hr carve?

I would like to think it would work the same.. but we will need conformation. If yes your good to go

LG

LG... You are right on about needing to have the 3/8 bit to calibrate the new Kevlar belts. I have a source for the bits, and will be working with another forum member who already received his kevlar belts. I am confident that this will not be a problem. This design is far more rigid than the QC... The only possible issue would be the bit. For those that want to use the original CW calibration bit, it will not be an issue either. There will be a piece that will screw right up into the collar adapter to use 1/2 shank tooling comming soon.
There will be a solution one way or another. We will share the outcome once it has been done.

Happy Carving!

[liquidguitars]

LG... You are right on about needing to have the 3/8 bit to calibrate the new Kevlar belts. I have a source for the bits, and will be working with another forum member who already received his kevlar belts.

thanks but the belts are not the issue only a example of one need of a 3/8" bit.

what about 1/4 carving bit slippage @ .8 deep for a 3 hr cave? have you tested long carves yet? most of my guitar top take about 3 hrs
at anywhere form .125" to .80" " i asked this question regarding the eliminator 2

For those that want to use the original CW calibration bit, it will not be an issue either. There will be a piece that will screw right up into the collar adapter to use 1/2 shank tooling comming soon.

Edit:

sounds like then your 1/2 QC version is a part that screws on to your 1/4" setup" as to your original design" so i only need to buy the new 1/2" base? will it be a allen screw/wedge for a one wrench setup like the Rock?.

I have a source for the bits

can you give us more details are you talking about custom 3/8 tooling? why not use any 3/8"x 1/4" its sold everywhere.

LG

[rjustice]

thanks but the belts are not the issue only a example of one need of a 3/8" bit.

what about 1/4 carving bit slippage @ .8 deep for a 3 hr cave? have you tested long carves yet? most of my guitar top take about 3 hrs
at anywhere form .125" to .80" " i asked this question regarding the eliminator 2



Edit:

sounds like then your 1/2 QC version is a part that screws on to your 1/4" setup" as to your original design" so i only need to buy the new 1/2" base? will it be a allen screw/wedge for a one wrench setup like the Rock?.



can you give us more details are you talking about custom 3/8 tooling? why not use any 3/8"x 1/4" its sold everywhere.

LG

Hi Brandon,
The tooling that i was talking about isnt necessarily custom. You are correct in saying that the 3/8x1/4 shank tools are readily available. But, i have seen many many versions of this tool that are carbid tipped, that are not center cutting. The tools must be center cutting. I truly believe that this is going to be the best, and preferred solution. I just want to make sure that the tools are readily availble and something that can be recommended. If someone were to use a non center cutting tool it will put excessive load on the "Z" truck and will no doubt cause bad things to happen. Center cutting tools are a must. The screw in adapter is an option to this.
I dont think that the majority of the people use 1/2 shank tooling, but if they do need to i want to give them the option to do so. The 1/2 will be the same clamp design. If you are the type of user that you will use the 1/2 on every project, it might make sense to leave 1/2 in the machine, and use sleeves. I am not a big fan of sleeves as most of them are going to have a limited life from clamping in the same spot on them all the time.. It also adds potential for more runout, and there will probably be a slight reduction in the clamp pressure.... They will work, and will probably give you good results, but again, being from the steel working side of things, i have never been a fan.
As far as the chuck slipping, its not going to be a problem. The machine doesnt have enough force to slip the tool at the force pressures i tested trying to push a 1/4" dowel out of the chuck. If you are not satisfied i will buy it back.
Hope that all makes sense. If not let me know..

Happy carving,

Ron

[liquidguitars]

The 1/2 will be the same clamp design. If you are the type of user that you will use the 1/2 on every project, it might make sense to leave 1/2 in the machine, and use sleeves

.

dont think that the majority of the people use 1/2 shank tooling

Not just me, im sure sign makers use the 1/2 ogee and round over bits that LHR sells as the "full bit set" not to mention
new projects of the month down stream will need them.

I can live with the sleeves as long as the 1/4 bit works, for that matter i will need the 1/8 for fretwork 2

do i need a new assembly for the 1/2" version or just add the adapter to the 1/4 rock setup?

Thanks Ron for you hard work and your 1/8 bit adapers rock 2..

LG

[rjustice]

.




Not just me, im sure sign makers use the 1/2 ogee and round over bits that LHR sells as the "full bit set" not to mention
new projects of the month down stream will need them.

I can live with the sleeves as long as the 1/4 bit works, for that matter i will need the 1/8 for fretwork 2

do i need a new assembly for the 1/2" version or just add the adapter to the 1/4 rock setup?

Thanks Ron for you hard work and your 1/8 bit adapers rock 2..

LG

You will just need the adapter, the locking collar will stay on the spindle, so ideally, you would never need to use the square tool to hold the spindle again. You will place one thin wrench on the locking collar, and the other on the adapter.
As far as the 1/8 shank tools, the best solution for them is to sleeve them from the 1/4 inch.

Thanks again,

Ron