8 Attachment(s)
"Matilda" style chocolate box
Attachment 85755
I got a request for project files for my “Matilda” style chocolate box. I decided to post here rather than send individually in case others may be interested in this project. The actual project files will be in the next post, as I have reached my limit of number of files per post with the photos.
The project was made using Designer 3 (Designer Pro) features. If anyone wants to build using Designer 1, let me know, and I will extract patterns.
Attachment 85756
I use an adjustable sled with 1” rails and 4” end pieces. So, I lay my projects out on a virtual board that is 8” longer and 2” wider than my blank stock. I use Stay Under Rollers? – No and Place On Corner when running the project. Because of the sled, the project will in fact stay under the rollers, and the whole length of the sled generally need not be measured. If you are using no sled, or a different sled, you will need to adjust your project files accordingly.
Features of Designer 3 that I used for this project include Extrude and Edit Envelope. Feel free to make changes as you see fit. I did not use Bit Optimization on the patterns as I think it produces the best result for this particular project. I machined the parts using the Best setting. (Don't confuse these two.)
Attachment 85757
Once you have carved two sides and two fronts (yes, one “front” is actually the “back”), you’ll need to trim top and bottom on a table saw with the blade angled 10 degrees. Make sure that you get the angles correct so that the parts lean in 10 degrees and top and bottom edges are in parallel planes. Next, you must cut the mitered ends with the blade angle set at 44 degrees and the miter gauge or table set to 10 degrees. I suggest cutting just one left side miter and another right front one first. Then, test fit these two parts by joining the mitered ends together, with the bottom of the side and front resting on a flat surface. Check the angle of the joined parts with a square held at the top of the parts with the square parallel to the flat surface. (Sorry, no picture of this crucial step.) The angle at top must be exactly 90 degrees. If not, adjust the angle of the blade a fraction of a degree and re-cut the two mitered ends. You may have to adjust as little as ¼ degree. If you are concerned about ruining your carved parts while doing this, you can use scrap blank boards of approximately the same size to make your test cuts.
Attachment 85758
I rabbet the bottom edges of the parts so that I can use a square board for the bottom of the box. I made a clamp-on fence addition at 10 degrees and clamp this to my router table fence. This holds the parts at the proper angle for cutting the rabbet.
I suppose one could skip the rabbet and cut the edges of the bottom board at 10 degrees instead, but I like the rabbet method myself.
Once you have cut sides and fronts, measure the length of each to determine the box top’s length and width. Change the size of the “rope flat top” pattern in the mpc to match. Also change the “raised panel” carve region if necessary to intersect, but not touch, the rope pattern.
Attachment 85759 Attachment 85761
To assemble my boxes, I use a Ryobi Detail Biscuit Joiner and #R3 biscuits to reinforce the corners. Unfortunately, this tool is no longer available. I use some corner clamps, pipe clamps, and any other kind needed. I assemble all four pieces (sides and fronts) at once, but glue only two corners at a time. This allows me to concentrate on getting only two corners perfectly matched and excess glue removed, rather than trying to do that with four at once.
I assemble the bottom last, cutting and test fitting repeatedly to get a tight fit.
Attachment 85760
After machining the top, trim the edges with the table saw. I use the router table to put about a 3/16” rabbet on the bottom of the lid to center the lid on the box (the lid lifts off and is not hinged). Again, cut, test fit, and repeat as needed to get a good fit.
Attachment 85762
I use antique brass jewelry box legs typically sourced from China via ebay (search is your friend). I usually get them in less than two weeks.
To finish the box, I use gold acrylic paint in the recessed areas of the box and on the legs. You can be a little sloppy while painting, and not be concerned if some paint is applied outside of the recessed area. Once the paint is dry, use a sanding block to both smooth the sides and remove the excess paint. (This is why the details are recessed and not standing proud!) I use a rounded sanding block on sides and fronts. I finish with satin lacquer. I like to apply an initial coat over the gold with a spray can to seal it, brush on at least two coats, and finish with spray after a final light sanding.
