Cupped after carving

I had a 3' length of 1x10 (0.75 x 9.25) board of pine from Lowes which I carved, and had a 8" x 24" rectangle plaque cut from it. I had made sure there was no noticeable cupping or crowning or other warpage when I bought the raw wood. After I carved it and had it cut out, it sat overnight in my cold and dry "shop" (in the unfinished basement here in Colorado). About 10 hours later this morning, I got it out to start finishing it, some sanding and staining.

And I noticed a very noticeable cupping - at least 1/2" and possibly a full 3/4" from the top/bottom edges to the center. Definitely would be noticeable if I gave it to my customer to hang on their wall. No way I can deliver it as is.

I have heard that with raw wood, one can sometimes use the method of putting a board in morning grass, and the dew will moisten the one face while the sun heats/dries the opposite face. But I don't know that this would work with a carved board, without causing problems with the carved region. Does anyone have any suggestions? Or am I going to have to get another board and spend another 4 hours carving this plaque again?

grain stress from removing a lot from 1 side will do this. I glue up my blanks no boards more than 3 inch wide. You can try warming the back side with a heater this will sometimes pull it back. Seal your carve if it works. This will help prevent it from doing it again. Seal front back and all around. you can also glue baltic birch to the back to pull it back.

I probably should not say too much as I'm an amateur at this. A board will cup toward the carved side as you found out big-time.
Sand off some wood on the back will help. I have poured water of the board and after draining it, clamped it a little beyond straight.
After it dried I covered both sides with diluted sanding sealer(twice) to hold it straight. It was not perfect, but it was pretty good.

Again, I'm no expert. I hope someone has more to say.

There was recently a thread where we discussed this problem. You may want to check it out: http://forum.carvewright.com/showthr...ving-1x12-pine

Tree rings want to flatten out over time. To minimize this - especially with pine - rip the board into narrower pieces and grue it back together again flipping alternate pieces.
Clint

That seems to be a common answer. Unfortunately, without a planer, I am not really able to glue up multiple boards to use smaller stock (or ripped up larger stock). I have tried a few times, thinking if I cut it from the one board, it should glue up flat and not require a planer. (And then thinking I just screwed up the first time, I tried again, and again, lol). Whether I am screwing it up, or it is just something all glue-ups require, until I get a planer I won't be able to do that. :/ :(

I don't have a jointer either but I made a jig from here www.woodworkingtips.com/etips/2005/01/28/wb and it works great.

When doing glue up panels, I like to use table salt to help keep thing right. As I glue pieces on together I sprinkle a little salt between the two. The salt gives me something with some bite to hold the wood from sliding around. The salt will dissolve in the glue never to be heard from again.

Ken,

If you have a router and table you can set it up to square up the edges. Of course you have to cut them on your table saw first, but then use the router to clean up the edges just as good as a joiner. Hope that helps.

Mike